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  #11  
Old 02-07-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Thanks for all your replies.

Hmm. I haven't used G10 before so I hadn't considered its rigidity and weight as negatives.
Also, as anyone who owns a boat knows there are really no flat surfaces on the deck of a boat so the idea of using Balsa certainly has its appeal. My T27 was originally Balsa cored I believe. I think I need 3/8" Balsa though and 1/2" might be too thick.
The areas I plan to work on are small, I hope no bigger than 1' x 3' per side deck (guess I'll find out how small when I start tearing into the deck).

Follow up question: What supplier do you use to buy Balsa core?

This place sells it: http://www.specializedbalsa.com/products2/end_grain.php

Do you think it is available more locally than ordering it from a place in Colorado?
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Last edited by CalebD; 02-07-2013 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 02-07-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Quote:
Originally Posted by CalebD View Post
I just used the search engine here to search for "G10" and it came back with no, zero, nada results. Interestingly there are posts with "G10" in the title. WTF is wrong with this search engine?
So, my question is, for the DIY, cheapskate boat handyman, where is the best (read: cheapest) place to order boards of "G10" material from?

I have a re-core project coming up for my boat and I'd like to use G10 instead of plywood. I have considered using bits of damaged FRP from the many boats that were damaged and broken by H'cane Sandy but can't seem to get my hands on enough material. If someone knows where there is a large amount of broken FRP I'd be interested in that too.

Cheers.
Caleb,

Unless this is for small areas directly under deck hardware I would strongly advise against G10 for a core.

It is great stuff but it is VERY, VERY heavy, very, very in-flexible, does not have any kerfs cut into it, it DESTROYS saw blades, and is VERY expensive. No problem using it under deck hardware but I would use end grain balsa for the rest of it..
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Old 02-07-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

I did well with defenders balsa
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Old 02-07-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Thanks to all who have responded.

All of your input has talked me out of attempting even a small re-core using G10. It is wildly expensive too but I'd guess it is ideal for some applications - but not for deck re-coring.

I can get Balsa for less than half the price of G10 so that makes me a happy camper.
Baltek Corp. Contourkore

Thanks again to all. I do respect your opinions, which is why I asked.
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Old 02-08-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

G10 is a sub-type of "Garolite" so google "garolite". Yes, it is heavy but considerably lighter than aluminum. It would be an awful deck material. Excellent backing plate material. It eats tools. We make custom 1911 model and Sig Saeur grips from G10 and our biggest problem is keeping the mills sharp. It is expensive.
I'd like to make whisker pole end fittings from G10 for lightness and no corrosion.
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Old 02-08-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

For core material, you may want to consider this; Macrocore 33.

I used a small piece on a small deck recore, and the US Navy is using it in the DDG1000...
I found that it is light, rigid, and it bonds really well with resin. Also, it will NEVER rot.

If you are interested, PM me, and I'll connect you with the right people.

Note that I have no interest in Esyntactic, other than I know the owner.
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Old 02-08-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Caleb- it looks like you've got your answer(s), but just in case you'd like yet another opinion :-), I redid the core of about 2' x 1' on a portion of my cabin top adjacent to a length of jib track that in hindsight really wished I'd used something synthetic rather than end-grain balsa. It is bomb proof and looks great (now), but took tons of my time for essentially no gain. I found that from a local shipwright. For G10, if you ever really do need it (I've used it in several places for backing plates and other things), I bought 1/8" and 1/4" sheets (1' x 2') just from Amazon, which looks comparable to crossnail laminates in price (considerably cheaper than Mcmaster-Carr, Jamestown Dist or Interstate Plastics. Good luck with your project!
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Old 02-08-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

So, Irunbird and anyone still reading:

Does anyone have comments about using Core-Cell closed cell structural foam .vs. end grain Balsa?
Composites One Core-Cell Structural Closed Cell Foam
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Old 02-08-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Klegecell or AIREX® Structural Foams might work for you. I have used both with excellent results. AIREX® Structural Foams come in siped panels and conform to curves well.

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Old 02-08-2013
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Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Hey, Caleb. We replaced most of the balsa in our SJ21's decks with CoreCell. It costs substantially more than scrim balsa; shipping for either costs so much the materials price difference pales. Balsa is sometimes shipped rolled up, which may be cheaper. Balsa has more compression strength as a material (tho I'd be curious to know if that obtains post-install) but balsa's vertical shear and flexural properties are poor -- it will snap like a soda cracker. I found the CC to be fairly resistant to that, unless scored.

Both will drink a surprising amount of resin; you need to butter them well with neat mix before spreading the thickened resin, or you may end up with a starved bond. And any lightweight core material must still be isolated from water intrusion. CC will absorb a certain percentage of water, & it can delaminate from freeze/thaw just like balsa. The difference is it won't ROT. The balsa around our mast step looked like gravy. That trait alone steered me toward CC, & I am very happy with the result.

Our new-to-us '72 Ballad has some water intrusion problems around the mast partners, foredeck cleat, and chainplates. Its deck is cored with 1" Divinycell. We drilled out a couple samples with a hole saw; even tho the wet plug was over 30% MC when removed, it had very high compressive strength. It dried out in about four days to 6% MC & now seems good as new. I've tried drying out saturated balsa, but the results were not as happy.

Either material is perfectly satisfactory if you keep the water out -- balsa has a slight performance edge in several categories. Let water in, and neither material is happy; balsa suffers most. FWIW, I put cast resin pads and/or phenolic plate under all high-load deck fittings, in place of core. Even if your bedding sealant fails, there's no risk of water intrusion. Little epoxy collars are cute, but under winches, travelers, deck cleats, or around chainplate penetrations, gimme phenolic sheet running an inch or so oversize in all directions. Yeah it's heavy -- so is a foam or balsa core full of water.

core1

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