Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards? - Page 3 - SailNet Community

   Search Sailnet:

 forums  store  


Quick Menu
Forums           
Articles          
Galleries        
Boat Reviews  
Classifieds     
Search SailNet 
Boat Search (new)

Shop the
SailNet Store
Anchor Locker
Boatbuilding & Repair
Charts
Clothing
Electrical
Electronics
Engine
Hatches and Portlights
Interior And Galley
Maintenance
Marine Electronics
Navigation
Other Items
Plumbing and Pumps
Rigging
Safety
Sailing Hardware
Trailer & Watersports
Clearance Items

Advertise Here






Go Back   SailNet Community > General Interest > General Discussion (sailing related)
 Not a Member? 


Like Tree11Likes
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
  #21  
Old 02-08-2013
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Beacon, NY
Posts: 1,904
Thanks: 13
Thanked 60 Times in 58 Posts
Rep Power: 8
miatapaul is on a distinguished road
Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

How about ML Condon in Westchester? I know they carry a lot of marine lumber. There would be no shipping from them, and I know they carry several kinds of Marine plywood, not sure about Balsa.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #22  
Old 02-08-2013
CalebD's Avatar
Tartan 27' owner
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 4,504
Thanks: 4
Thanked 83 Times in 76 Posts
Rep Power: 7
CalebD will become famous soon enough
Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Never heard of "siped" anything before so had to look it up.
Apparently it is usually used to describe the thin cuts made in tire treads but also applies to foam cores that are cut in a cross hatch pattern to allow more flexibility.
Looking at Defender's offerings of foam core products they only carry
Composites One Core-Cell Structural Closed Cell Foam
which is either "plain type" or "double cut" (assuming here that double cut = siped).
__________________
"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen

Everybody has one:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #23  
Old 02-09-2013
downeast450's Avatar
Tundra Down
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Seal Harbor, Maine
Posts: 1,225
Thanks: 25
Thanked 14 Times in 14 Posts
Rep Power: 7
downeast450 is on a distinguished road
Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Caleb,

Yup. Cuts partially through a panel on one side on an intersecting pattern at 90 degrees to each other. It allows it to flex and take a curve. I cut to fit. Butter the siped side with a paste of resin and a filler(cabosil or microbaloons or a mix) making sire the sipes get filled sipes down. Excess paste is forced out. Then press it onto the surface and cover it with more paste and the laminate. Bullet proof and rot proof and light. It cuts with a knife and small gaps can be filled with scraps and wedges you cut on the spot. If it is a close to flat surface you don't need it siped. It will soften with a heat gun and you can get some shape conformation (careful with heat). You can easily sipe it yourself if you have a table saw. Not cheap but value in workability and durability. I love the stuff. I have "scraps" in the shop I cut 20+ years ago and reach for them now to solve problems I am working on.

Down

AIREX polymer foams*- 3A Composites
CalebD likes this.

Last edited by downeast450; 02-09-2013 at 02:24 AM.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #24  
Old 02-09-2013
tommays's Avatar
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,232
Thanks: 1
Thanked 24 Times in 24 Posts
Rep Power: 6
tommays will become famous soon enough
Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?



Having done big area upside down


There is really no choice on a cal 29 as three is no structural inner skin attachment

This should also dispel legends about what makes a deck stiff



I can say with complete certainty the block size and ability to score the material is a huge plus as your NOT getting it up there in one shot





As much as love my friend G10 and placed it in core in areas i convinced myself it would be better



If you squeegee out a tight inner shin its incredibly strong





having bolted the stanchions back in the G10 area



And the mooring bit in the balsa area i can assure you you would never be able to tell and cannot compress the balsa

The mooring bit has held the boat through two hurricanes without so much as a bolt getting lose









For seacocks and stern-tube G10 is clearly the best material
CalebD, downeast450 and bljones like this.
__________________
1970 Cal 29 Sea Fever

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

1981 J24 Tangent 2930
Tommays
Northport NY


If a dirty bottom slows you down what do you think it does to your boat
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
  #25  
Old 02-11-2013
CalebD's Avatar
Tartan 27' owner
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: NYC
Posts: 4,504
Thanks: 4
Thanked 83 Times in 76 Posts
Rep Power: 7
CalebD will become famous soon enough
Re: Best/cheapest place to get G10 grp boards?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bobmcgov View Post
Hey, Caleb. We replaced most of the balsa in our SJ21's decks with CoreCell. It costs substantially more than scrim balsa; shipping for either costs so much the materials price difference pales. Balsa is sometimes shipped rolled up, which may be cheaper. Balsa has more compression strength as a material (tho I'd be curious to know if that obtains post-install) but balsa's vertical shear and flexural properties are poor -- it will snap like a soda cracker. I found the CC to be fairly resistant to that, unless scored.

Both will drink a surprising amount of resin; you need to butter them well with neat mix before spreading the thickened resin, or you may end up with a starved bond. And any lightweight core material must still be isolated from water intrusion. CC will absorb a certain percentage of water, & it can delaminate from freeze/thaw just like balsa. The difference is it won't ROT. The balsa around our mast step looked like gravy. That trait alone steered me toward CC, & I am very happy with the result.

Our new-to-us '72 Ballad has some water intrusion problems around the mast partners, foredeck cleat, and chainplates. Its deck is cored with 1" Divinycell. We drilled out a couple samples with a hole saw; even tho the wet plug was over 30% MC when removed, it had very high compressive strength. It dried out in about four days to 6% MC & now seems good as new. I've tried drying out saturated balsa, but the results were not as happy.

Either material is perfectly satisfactory if you keep the water out -- balsa has a slight performance edge in several categories. Let water in, and neither material is happy; balsa suffers most. FWIW, I put cast resin pads and/or phenolic plate under all high-load deck fittings, in place of core. Even if your bedding sealant fails, there's no risk of water intrusion. Little epoxy collars are cute, but under winches, travelers, deck cleats, or around chainplate penetrations, gimme phenolic sheet running an inch or so oversize in all directions. Yeah it's heavy -- so is a foam or balsa core full of water.

core1

kiwi13
Hey Bob,

Thanks for posting about your experiences with CoreCell. It seems like a good way to go.
The job you did on the coach roof came out looking very nice indeed. Did you use vacuum bagging to apply the CC to the roof or some other clever method like Tommays showed, using dead men and a mold or pressure plate to hold the wet laminates in place before the epoxy cured?

Thanks again.
__________________
"The cure for anything is salt water~ sweat, tears, or the sea." ~Isak Denesen

Everybody has one:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Reply With Quote Share with Facebook
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

 
Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may post attachments
You may edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Cheapest place to buy? Sea Bird Boat Review and Purchase Forum 0 01-31-2012 07:38 AM
Cheapest place/ way to store a boat from NJ to FL Mariner777 Cruising & Liveaboard Forum 2 04-17-2011 08:54 PM
Cheapest haulout in NJ bmacfarquhar Gear & Maintenance 0 02-10-2010 08:11 PM
Cheapest AIS marigrace Electronics 12 11-25-2009 03:08 AM
What is the best/cheapest place to get running rigging saurav16 Gear & Maintenance 24 04-30-2008 08:48 PM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 10:50 PM.

Add to My Yahoo!         
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
SEO by vBSEO 3.6.1
(c) Marine.com LLC 2000-2012

The SailNet.com store is owned and operated by a company independent of the SailNet.com forum. You are now leaving the SailNet forum. Click OK to continue or Cancel to return to the SailNet forum.