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Best small boat for cruising the Bahamas?

86K views 167 replies 41 participants last post by  Group9 
#1 ·
What in your opinion is the best small (up to 30 feet) boat for cruising the Bahamas? Using Georgia or Florida as a home port, and sailing solo. I'm a minimalist in general but I do want to also carry my kayak and my SUP board. What about twin keeled boats like Westerly Centaur? Your input will be greatly appreciated.
 
#2 ·
For a solo, thats a decent amount of space to get by. As with all boats, make sure your rigging, engine, and systems are in good shape and you'll have a fine time. In many parts of the bahamas, a 5' draft can be carried...which for most 30' boats is plenty for good tracking
 
#3 ·
I own the best small boat for cruising the Bahamas. A 1981 8.5 meter (28') S2 with shoal draft of 3'10". Original 7 hp 1GM Yanmar replaced with a 13 hp 2GM.
Internal ballast so when (not if) you hit bottom you never have to worry about keel bolts. She has all controls led to cockpit and I have single handed her a lot. Old enough that if she somehow gets destroyed, it isn't a significant loss.

AND........and the most significant thing, she is now registered in the bahamas and is in Marsh Harbor, Abacos.

Now, the down side. I am currently unable to use her.
 
#29 ·
I own the best small boat for cruising the Bahamas. A 1981 8.5 meter (28') S2 with shoal draft of 3'10". Original 7 hp 1GM Yanmar replaced with a 13 hp 2GM.
Internal ballast so when (not if) you hit bottom you never have to worry about keel bolts. She has all controls led to cockpit and I have single handed her a lot. Old enough that if she somehow gets destroyed, it isn't a significant loss.
I remember looking at one of those - seemed like a really solid boat. Any concerns regarding the rather exposed spade rudder?
 
#4 · (Edited)
Unlike some folks here, I enjoy these "best boat for..." threads, but we really need a few details about your needs, such as budget, to give you a good answer. How much can you spend? What are your top three priorities for a boat (for example: 1) storage 2) sailing performance 3) inboard motor). From your post, I'm going to assume you're thinking of a solo adventure.

Here's a few to consider if you're want shallow draft to really explore and gunkhole in the Bahamas, until we can narrow it down with a budget:

Gemini m105c - Popular, relatively affordable, simple shallow draft cat

Island Packet 26 - The original IP with a shallow draft has now become somewhat of pocket cruiser bargain

Seaward 26RK - Beachable little cruiser with vertically lifting keel and rudder

And how about this cool cat, the Tiki 30 (Wharram desgin) from Boatsmith - She looks perfect for an adventurous romp through the Bahamas.
 
#31 ·
Island Packet 26 - The original IP with a shallow draft has now become somewhat of pocket cruiser bargain

Seaward 26RK - Beachable little cruiser with vertically lifting keel and rudder
IP26 is one of the boats I would definitely consider. I don't know much about the other one and don't see them often on the water.
 
#6 ·
I would like to keep the cost of the boat to less than $15K, not counting another 5K for extra gear I may need. I was seriously thinking of a Cape Dory 25 with an outboard - with 3' draft it seems ideal for Bahamas but I'm not sure if this is 'enough boat' for this purpose. Crossing Gulf Stream can be intimidating.
As to priorities, it is safety and enough storage for a 1-2 month long trip.
 
#8 ·
Even though you gain space, I'd avoid an outboard for "long-distance"ish cruising. Choppy seas can result in cavitation, and if you're going Bahamas, expect to spend a lot of time in shallow waters with choppy seas (ie, Bahamas banks).

With your budget and desired cruising grounds, any decent production built boat in the 30 foot range would be a good choice. Catalina 30s are a dime a dozen it seems!!!
 
#9 ·
had a CD 25. cute little boat but using outboard as primary engine not a great idea in MO. Beyond caviation with engine in well used to lose power when engine intakewent under water in a seaway. Dana 24 would take you anywhere in comfort and safety but may need to save a bit.
 
#10 ·
Alert. Biased response.

I own a 1966 Tartan 27. Three foot two inch draft with board up. Very stable, easy motion in a seaway, can handle almost anything you will encounter. Sail great even with he board up. And they look good.

If you find one in pretty good shape, you won't be disappointed. Check out the Tartan 27 site for help and suggestions.

Skywalker
T27 249
 
#12 ·
Thanks guys... what you are saying is kind of confirming my gut instincts (inboard vs outboard, CD 25D vs 25)... I just have this really cheap streak in me that I have to battle all the time... ;)
I definitely don't want to buy a project boat with all sorts of potential problems. I would like to buy a boat from a good sailor who took good care of his boat and is honest about the good, the bad, and the ugly...
Do you think CD 26D, 27 or 28 are better for my adventure than CD25D? I have been watching their prices and you are right, sometimes these bigger boats are cheaper (all other things like gear and condition being equal) than 25D.
I like the centerboard idea but heard lots of bad things about them (jamming, noise, hard to fix broken gear).
 
#13 ·
The T 27 centerboard has a pivot pin and uses a line on a pulley to raise and lower. It weighs about 115 pounds. I've jammed it a couple of times when I've run aground in rocks/pebbles. A screw driver pries them out. The pulley system is simple and I've never had an issue. At certain positions, I get a little bump occasionally, usually on a reach. the pin should be inspected for wear. My is still solid.

This from a 47 year old boat.

The 27 was built during the CCA era and had to sail without the board by rule. You never have to use it. But it adds a lot to the balance of the helm. She'll track forever without touching the tiller when properly trimmed.
 
#34 · (Edited)
The T 27 centerboard has a pivot pin and uses a line on a pulley to raise and lower. It weighs about 115 pounds. I've jammed it a couple of times when I've run aground in rocks/pebbles. A screw driver pries them out. The pulley system is simple and I've never had an issue. At certain positions, I get a little bump occasionally, usually on a reach. the pin should be inspected for wear. My is still solid.

This from a 47 year old boat.

The 27 was built during the CCA era and had to sail without the board by rule. You never have to use it. But it adds a lot to the balance of the helm. She'll track forever without touching the tiller when properly trimmed.
While the Tartan 27 would be very high on my list as great small cruiser for the Bahamas, there are a number of mistakes or misleading comments in the above. The Tartan 27 was designed during the period when the CCA rule was around, but one of the reasons that makes it such a nice design is that it was not designed to the CCA rule, but was designed to the MORC rule. Neither the CCA or the MORC rule forbid use of the centerboard and so when raced under either rule, the board was lowered upwind and on a reach but was raised on a run for speed.
Respectfully,
Jeff
 
#14 ·
I have not considered catamarans as they tend to be expensive or when they are cheap they don't seem at all seaworthy.
I'm also really partial to keeping the ballast to displacement ratio at at least 35%.
 
#16 ·
Thanks, Skywalker. Good info. Is that a screwdriver job after you haul it out or on a dive?
I have also heard about bent centerboards due to grounding. Is your cb beefy enough not to have that problem?
 
#17 ·
Save yourself some grief, go up a few feet, and look closely at the Morgan 33 Out Island. This particular boat was designed for exactly what you're looking for. It's roomy, only draws 4-feet, sails well, can handle the Gulf Stream, and it's easily single handed. If you search around, you'll find one in your price range that's in good condition.

Good Luck on whatever you decide upon,

Gary :cool:
 
#18 ·
Good points, Shinook. I'm 5'9 and not claustrophobic. I have a 20 foot Mirage 5.5 on which I sail a week at a time on Pamlico Sound, so CD 25 would be a big step up, but the expected trip duration is much longer and I need a lot more gear and supplies.
 
#20 ·
The general consensus on the CD25 is that it's not as "offshore capable" as some of the other Cape Dory models. It's actually a design that was manufactured for a while by another manufacturer, before Cape Dory acquired the molds. I don't know the whole story, you can look into it, if you are interested.

I'm not sure I believe the skepticism, though. I've read stories of a few making fairly substantial passages safely. That said, you can definitely tell a difference in the 25 vs other CD boats, not that the 25 is less of a boat, it was just built with a different goal in mind. They are capable of doing whatever you want with them, but unless you specifically want to trailer the boat, I'd try to focus on one of the larger models which can often be had for a small sum more. In my case, our CD27 was cheaper than the CD25 we looked at, although she needed a lot more work.

For the price you listed, I think you could easily find a CD27 or CD28 that's basically ready to kick off and go wherever you want. Be aware that models prior to 1977 tend to be cheaper by a fair amount, as the interiors on both models tend to be a little more spartan and lack a few small features that 1978 and newer models had. None of them are that big of a deal, though. I fairly regularly see CD27s and CD28s for sale in Florida for decent prices (and some not so decent).
 
#21 ·
Thanks for the tips, Shinook. I tend to agree that CD25 is a rather seaworthy design. I see them on Pamlico Sound quite often. The biggest complain I hear from their owners is space. I have at least 2 years to make up my mind, find, and prepare my boat for this trip. But looking for a good deal is always easier when you know exactly what to look for. CD28 is a sweet boat, but they are hard to find in a decent shape and with the right gear in my price range.
 
#23 ·
Keep an eye out, watch Craigslist via searchtempest.com, along with ebay and the CDSOA site. Good deals show up, they usually don't last long, though. The biggest problem you'll have is finding one in your area, in my experience anyway. I've seen more than a few nice looking (pictures, anyway) 27s and 28s going for well below your price range just in FL.

They do pop up on the NC coast, though. Just not as frequently as further north or in FL. Just be patient, if it's what you really want.
 
#22 ·
I don't mind doing the regular maintenance/repair work, but some repairs and gear cost a lot of money, like engine work or bimini. Usually it seems cheaper to find a boat that already has the stuff you need in decent condition then to add it yourself.
 
#24 · (Edited)
We chartered a 37' Tayana Cutter in Abaco taking ASA lessons in 2009 and had a great time, that size was a pleasure to sail down there given the trade winds we usually had. Our dream is to cruise full time one day, if this happens it will probably require us to make one more move and buy a multi-hull. Multi's just seem the way to go down there, being cheap and long distance sailing might place one in a bad position, almost everytime I cheap out I end up regretting it and actually spend more correcting my initial move, your experience may differ. Last year when we were in Eleuthera we saw a large (40+) sailboat with a broken mast being towed in, I often wonder what the story was behind that.

BTW my avitar is me sailing that Tayana in the Sea Of Abaco...
 
#25 ·
Another question specific to cruising in the Bahamas. Does it make a big difference if the boat draws 3.5 or 4 feet? Does it make finding good anchorage that much easier? I have heard something to that effect once or twice from sailors on bigger boats.
 
#27 ·
Interesting point, Swampcreek... yeah, I had to make a few expensive corrections to my 'cheap' moves, but most of the time they tend to work just fine. And I really don't have the money for those big boats, nor experience to sail them safely by myself when the weather turns ugly. My planned trip to Bahamas is a prelude to possibly a retirement on a boat in a few more years, but I realize that my 'ultimate' boat may be different than the boat I'm thinking about now.
 
#30 ·
We have 11 or 12 years to decide...unless we hit the lottery which we rarely play or society breaks down and we have to make a run for it. :laugher
 
#28 ·
Browse thru this list:

Atom Voyages - Good Old Boats List

Most are full or modified keel, which in general will be shallower draft.

You'll get different responses on the twin keel, but I looked at a Centaur and may have pulled the trigger but they already had a deal in the works. Personally I like the concept in skinny water, shallow draft, pull it up close to shore and 'beach it' if you want. They can be found for a lot better money than a lot of pocket cruisers (generalization based on age, condition, etc).
 
#36 ·
Found this.

Learn something new every day.

Welcome to the MORC Racing website.* The Midget Ocean Racing Club was founded in 1954 in New York.* Its primary mission was to promote offshore racing and cruising of small boats.* The original MORC Rule was a modified version of the existing CCA Rule to accommodate small boats.* At that time many small boats were excluded from participating in offshore races.* The first boat designed to the MORC rule was a modified 16 foot Bullseye.* Over the years, the MORC rule evolved resulting in some very successful boats in the 25-34' range.* These boats continue to be potent PHRF or IRC contenders.
 
#38 ·
Early on the MORC rule was merely the CCA rule with minimum accommodations requirements grafted on. That very quickly changed. As the rule began to gain popularity it was quickly decided that smaller boats intended to go offshore were less able to tolerate the extremes of the CCA. The first revision to the MORC rule, downplayed the significance of both waterline length and beam, as well as changing the rig factors so that mainsail area was slightly less disadvantaged under the MORC rule. The beam issues were solely about the fact that small boats are proportionately more beamy than bigger boats. The waterline length was about the disproportionate negative implications on seaworthiness and carrying capacity that was implicit in the design of smaller boats with short waterlines.

The result was that the MORC boats of that era remain much more useful designs in that they had nicer motions, generally better performance in a broader wind range, had better carrying capacities, and were generally more seaworthy as well. As MORC evolved, it went on to produce boats which anticipated future design trends, but ultimately lost many of the virtues of these earlier MORC designs.

Jeff
 
#39 ·
regarding the original post,

The boats I would pick (including what I currently have)
Cape Dory 27
Bayfield 25 & 29
Bristol 27
Nor'sea 27
Bristol Channel Cutter 28
Pacific Seacraft Flicka (about 20')
Pacific Seacraft Dana 24
Albin Vega 27

These are the boats I was considering when I was looking around.
 
#46 ·
Geez, he's going to the Bahamas...not crossing the Mona Passage! All of these boats are great, but they're overkill. The toughest passage you'll be making is the Gulfstream.

I'd go for a production boat thats well kept in your price range.
 
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