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  #11  
Old 02-23-2013
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Re: Battery location and venting.

AGM is the way to go.. and there are lots of good choices out there. Some of them are also VERY light if weight is a consideration
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Old 02-23-2013
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Re: Battery location and venting.

You can not just swap flooded batts with AGM, there is substantially more to it.

Definitely strap all batts down. Despite concern over well cells leaking, any battery will be a deadly projectile in a knock down. Having a container that will contain a leak is a very good idea. Ventilation for wel cells is required, but isn't like ventilating a toxic waste site. Just get some air in there. I can't think of a reason why the engine compartment need be involved.
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Old 02-23-2013
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Re: Battery location and venting.

Hi Joel,

You might want to consider these whether you change over to AGMs or put your existing batteries into an extra compartment.



They are quite cheap boxes (£13 each in the UK) that come with straps to hold them down. I've got AGMs so no need for venting and no worries about spillages. The idea, of me dropping a spanner across the poles or the kids touching the 110 Ah batteries made me get them.
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Old 02-23-2013
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Re: Battery location and venting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
You can not just swap flooded batts with AGM, there is substantially more to it.
What else is there to it? I switched all the batteries in my cars to AGM. The only differences were the sizes. The batteries were MUCH smaller and lighter
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Re: Battery location and venting.

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Originally Posted by mad_machine View Post
What else is there to it? I switched all the batteries in my cars to AGM. The only differences were the sizes. The batteries were MUCH smaller and lighter
Start batteries never draw down much, so aren't the same as a house bank. AGMs will take almost whatever charge you can throw at them. After running the house bank down, they will burn out your alternator while recharging without adding a voltage regulator for starters. Even the charge voltage to keep them healthy is different.

I'm not the pro, I only know enough that the differences are significant.
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Re: Battery location and venting.

A summary of the ABYC standards:
Battery secured
Not move more than 1 inch with a 90# pull (or 2X battery weight if greater), vertically, fore, aft, and athwart ships.
Ungrounded terminal protected with a boot/shield, in a covered box, or special compartment.
Metallic fuel lines within 12 inches shielded.
Battery not above or below fuel tank.
Here's the quote on vewntillation: "A vent system or other means shall be provided to permit the discharge from the boat of hydrogen gas released from the battery. Battery boxes whose cover forms a pocket over the battery shall be vented. These provisions also apply to sealed batteries"
Mounting surfaces and components can't be of material that's damaged by electrolyte.
Fasteners for battery boxed isolated from areas intended to collect spilled electrolyte.
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Old 02-24-2013
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Re: Battery location and venting.

I had a battery "explode" in my truck years ago. It was caused by a shorted wire that burned through the plastic battery case. I smelled some burning and had my hand on the hood latch when it went off. Was very lucky not to get it right in the face. The explosion was more than a small pop but less than a cherry bomb but did spew acid all over the engine compartment. It would not be something you'd want to happen in the bilge but would not likely cause much surrounding damage. The acid is not going to light up or start a fire but any resultant shorts might. That's why having main battery cables fused very close is important.

Venting is less important than in dealing with gasoline fumes. As long as there is air movement in the area is probably enough. Mine are located a few feet from the old aft blower vents left over from the original gasser. So there is some air movement. I can access them easily enough through the seat hatch. I don't use any kind of over-all covering because I don't want any place for fumes to accumulate but I do use rubber terminal covers. All wire should have either rubber covers, heat shrink tubing or good rubber tape over any exposed copper. I also saturate any connections with Scotchkote to slow down corrosion. ScotchKote and rubber tape (not std.vinyl electrical tape) is the best way I've found to keep salt air out of any wire connection.

I remounted my batteries just aft of the engine bulkhead and heavily glassed in a base that fits the 3 batteries exactly. They're accessible through the starboard settee. Atop the batteries, to hold them in, is a piece of 1X2 cedar flat, screwed to a 1-1/4" s.s. strap running across the top, screwed securely to bulkhead and the base at the ends. I attached 2 big ANL fuse blocks atop the strap which puts them very close to batteries and allows for very short cables. The unit would stay put even in a roll over. They are also high enough not to become submerged and shorted should there be high water in the bilge. Once your batts become flooded, lights, radios, etc. are gone so it's pretty important to keep them high enough so that an otherwise controllable flooding event does not put everything out of business.
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Last edited by smurphny; 02-24-2013 at 12:13 AM.
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Old 02-24-2013
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Re: Battery location and venting.

Thanks for all the feedback provided here.
I spent yesterday morning with some of those plastic battery boxes looking at different configurations. I'm still looking! The choices of available space on the port side just aren't really optimal. The problem, I've determined, is the best space to efficiently house the batteries is where all the wiring comes together and is the backside of the lighting and bilge pump toggle switches. Unless I decide to relocate,(or encase), all my elect. terminations, this may turn out to be a "no go" after all.
Thanks again,
Joel H.
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Re: Battery location and venting.

Have to admit, the first thought that went through my mind was, "if that's a better location, why didn't the manufacturer put them there to begin with?" Bad design does happen though.

It sounded like your primary concern was balance. How about adding some water tankage on the other side?
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Re: Battery location and venting.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Minnewaska View Post
Start batteries never draw down much, so aren't the same as a house bank. AGMs will take almost whatever charge you can throw at them. After running the house bank down, they will burn out your alternator while recharging without adding a voltage regulator for starters. Even the charge voltage to keep them healthy is different.

I'm not the pro, I only know enough that the differences are significant.
You are thinking I was running the Red tops things from the automotive places. I run hawker odyessy batteries and they make drop in marine application batteries that are AGM and deep cycle.
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