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post #1 of 20 Old 04-24-2013 Thread Starter
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Painting Question, if I may?

I painted the hull of my boat with an alkyd enamel paint awhile back. Pretty durable paint but not very shiny. I don't want to do a complete repaint because the paint is still good. But I do want to try and make it shiny with out much work. I think I have two options, but not sure which is best.

1. Sand and paint a top coat of clear.

2. Sand and paint with a polyurethane type deck paint.

(Stupid question, can you buff and wax enamel paint?)

I am not sure if the polyurethane will go over the enamel.

And, I am not exactly sure what type clear to use. Someone told me I could use spar varnish, but I am not sure about that.

Anyone have any thoughts?
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post #2 of 20 Old 04-24-2013
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

Love the name Pyewackette from the movie "Bell, Book & Candle".

Can you buff & wax enamel paint?
You could try it out on a small section. I doubt it would work as well as on gel coat as the wax gets forced into the small interstices (cracks, openings) in the gel coat. The paint you used would have already sealed these tiny spaces.

So you want some gloss on your hull, eh? You should have used a glossy enamel in the first place. I'm not sure why polyurethane would not stick to enamel if you want to stick to non-marine products.
I would not use varnish for this, ever.
One "marine" product I would consider using is Cetol Clear Gloss which is pretty easy to apply and fairly long lasting for exterior uses.

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post #3 of 20 Old 04-24-2013 Thread Starter
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

Correct on the name, that's exactly were I got it.

Actually, the enamel that is on it is a marine paint. A tugboat captain owned the boat before me and he put it on. I repainted it with the same stuff thinking I could do a better job, not knowing that alkyd enamel just ain't going to get shiny.

So, I am trying to redo without having to actually redo, everything.

Also, the polyurethane I was thinking of using is Interlux's Brightside deck paint. They don't really have the color I want, but if it will work over enamel I might try other venders.

I checked into the Cetol Clear Gloss you mentioned but it looks like it only works on wood. Is this correct?
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

I would lightly sand with 400 grit, clean very well with wax/grease remover, then tack cloths, and then apply an enamel clear coat. Many brands are available. You can roll/brush it on, use those glass containers that some with aerosol charges and use the canned clear coat in those to spray it, or use the clear coat that already comes in spray cans. I would use 2 coats, not sanding or cleaning between coats and select a high gloss if u really want it shiny. I've used this method myself on my boat with excellent results. Hope this helps!
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post #5 of 20 Old 04-24-2013
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

I concur with this.
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I would lightly sand with 400 grit, clean very well with wax/grease remover, then tack cloths, and then apply an enamel clear coat. Many brands are available. You can roll/brush it on, use those glass containers that some with aerosol charges and use the canned clear coat in those to spray it, or use the clear coat that already comes in spray cans. I would use 2 coats, not sanding or cleaning between coats and select a high gloss if u really want it shiny. I've used this method myself on my boat with excellent results. Hope this helps!
It's been along time since i had to think about paints. (went to college for Auto refinishing) I believe the only thing you can use over this paint would be another clear that is of the same type.
It sounds like you have an enamel with no hardner; so, that would rule out any type of polyurethane or urethanes or hardened enamels. If you do go over it with something that is "harder" than it will crack most likely and not adhere properly.
If you can find the same brand as the original that would be best. Brand mixing at times can spell disaster. if nothing else go right to a paint specialist and they will give you a very good recommendation. I would recommend this anyway.
Since appears to be glorified house paint i believe it can't be waxed either.

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Most modern paints are parts of what manufacturers like to call “protective coating systems,” which include compatible fillers, putties, fairing compounds, thinners, and undercoats.If you’re planning anything more than a touch-up, ask for the full manufacturer’s directions because, all too often, one kind of paint will not stick to another’s undercoat, even if it’s made by the same manufacturer.Marine paints can be divided into two groups: topside paints and bottom paints.There are at least four major kinds of topside paint used on boats, each with its own characteristics and applications:Alkyd enamel. Marine alkyd enamels are nothing more than formulations of oil-based exterior house paint. On boats, this type of paint is great for interior spaces and makes an inexpensive deck paint. Thirty years ago, alkyd enamel was also the leading choice for topside paint, and it still does the job. But for a fiberglass hull, which—unlike a wooden hull with its constant working—provides a stable platform for a long-lasting paint, polyurethane provides a longer life and a higher gloss.Single-part polyurethane. This is a urethane-modified alkyd enamel, a compromise between alkyd enamel and true polyurethane, which offers good gloss, three- to five-season longevity, and moderate ease of application.Two-part linear polyurethane (LPU). This is the best choice for high gloss and a long life, but it’s a problem to apply. A professional polyurethane job is sprayed—not recommended for the amateur even if wearing the requisite respirator. Several brands are formulated for application with roller and brush; done correctly, the result is almost indistinguishable from a spray coating. Ideally, it’s a two-person job: one to roll on the paint with vertical strokes, the other following behind with a paintbrush to tip the paint with horizontal strokes. As always with marine coatings, preparation is the key to success. The primer will be proprietary to the topcoat.Epoxy. Epoxy is sometimes used as a primer over porous or crazed gelcoat under a topcoat of marine alkyd enamel, but its high susceptibility to ultraviolet degradation renders it unsuitable as a topcoat.Bottom paints are mostly antifouling paints; that is, they contain a compound to deter or prevent the growth of marine organisms, such as weed and barnacles, that would slow the progress of a boat or damage the hull surface. There are at least four common types of bottom paint: ablative, sloughing, modified epoxy, and vinyl, all of which usually contain a copper biocide. Teflon paint has no biocidal properties, and is used on racing craft removed from the water after use. Bottom paints may be incompatible, too, so you must find out what type of paint is on your boat’s bottom before you paint over it
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

Only enamel clear coats I can find are the automotive type, usually being acrylic enamel as apposed to alkyd enamel, which is on the boat. Do you think that an acrylic enamel over an alkyd enamel would work?
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

I believe they are not compatible.
Maybe this? 1 Gallon Can Clear INDUSTRIAL COATINGS[TM] Alkyd Enamel | Fastenal

I would call one of the Marine paint manufactures and ask them directly. they won't steer you wrong.
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

I believe mixing acrylic and alkyd is like mixing oil and water.

Many moons ago i worked on some cars with alkyd enamel. They were terrible! It makes great trailer paint though!! Just touch it up when you need to.
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

As I very successful roll & tip person I cant believe any clear coat would not look like hell if put on by roll & tip


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post #10 of 20 Old 04-25-2013
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Re: Painting Question, if I may?

If you have some extra paint, I would pick up a piece of metal, or a junk bpdy panel form a junkyard, and paint it. Let it dry a good 48 hours. Then experiment on THAT instead of the boat.

I've seen some really incredible results using a 600-800 wet sanding following by a 2000 or 3000 sanding or polish (I think 3M's Finesse compound is a 3000 polish) and some of that stuff can give you a mirror finish from what looked like junk. Then the trick is to apply a good wax or finish and keep it up. But the ridiculously fine polish, and some elbow grease, makes an incredible difference.

If you use a good wax like Collinite Fleetwax, you get a great shine. If you use an acrylic or polymer finish like NuFinish, it may give you a shinier "harder" gloss but it needs to be maintained forever after--or stripped. Unlike wax, which just wears off and needs to be cleaned and re-applied. So far I'm still in favor of the wax.
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