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Chimera mast

5K views 14 replies 3 participants last post by  jumaggafanny 
#1 ·
I have always stepped Chimera's mast (Helms 25 #504 1975) with a single 10ft.long Gin-pole lashed near the foot. Using a 4:1 tackle, it's just not that hard to make it stand up. However in the true "antlers on th' wall" style I have over the last decade managed to hang a few extra items on my mast. Radar reflector: negative ion dissipation brush(rabbits foot for lightning); mast head nav/anchor lights & VHF antenna. This added weight, my membership in AARP and gusty winds provided me a challenge when I was making preparations to trailor away from Gustav. I have decided to change to an "A-frame" system. I am posting pix of my current system.
Dave
 

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#2 ·
David:
I use a similar gin pole as you. But instead of the block & tackle, I put a block foreword and run the line back to my main winch. My wife does the cranking while I keep the mast centered. That way she can cleat off if needed. With your added mast weight, I can see where my single speed winch would be hard to crank.
I don't see the A frame set up. I've heard of this done by modifying the shrouds somehow to keep the mast centered so there is no danger of loosing the mast sideways. Is this what you are doing?
Here are some pictures of my mast rest set up.





And a quick sketch of gin pole.
 
#4 ·
Wayne,
I've used my ole stand by 4:1 that has a camcleat...this is the same rig I use to haul my booty to the masthead when it's up. I have no real complaints with power issue however twice now against my better judgment I have lowered the mast while afloat, couldn't have done that w/trailer winch. I do have a 2-speed trailer winch and it still wears me out if I'm forced to pull Chimera up onto the trailer at a low water state or poor ramp.

I just turned down the OD of some 3/4" sch 160 st.stl. pipe to fit the stanchion base. I intend to swing from this point since I know the base to be strong and they're located in line w/mast base. I've seen some swing from the shroud chain plates, but I am looking for more control tha I can get from strap attachment. Plan "A" is to use 3/4-1" EMT for the frame I have to figure out a head configuration for the "A". I want it to be rigid in use but break down fast and store small. This is one of those parts I'll use 1-2 hrs yearly and doesn't have a 2nd use.
 
#5 ·
I finally got around to taking a pix of the McGyver rig I've made to step my mast. I was intent on making something that can travel wiht the trailer easily when not inuse. I have 3/4" electric conduit (EMT) 10 ft length as the basis. the top end is a ring wiht two legs welded to slip fit the conduit. I made 2 eash hinged tubing assemblies to fit into the stanchion base and allow the swing of the mast raising.

 
#7 ·
Mast stepping "rig"

I ended up with a few false starts making this rig work for me. I wanted something that breaks down since I have to carry it to my launch site a state line away. I am using 1" Electric conduit (emt) and used 1" OD 0.065 wall st. stl. pipe for the fittings, I used an cut ring of 2" pipe at the apex of the A-frame. This would not be suitable for Helms that do not have lifelines and the attendant stanchions. I was pretty pleased with myself for using the stanchion base, I couldn't lose the stanchion since the life line keeps it near and I know it's mounted and backed well. I still use the 4:1 from the bow to the frame. I anitcipated the need to shorten each side of the frame but that wasn't required. I am fortunate to have an inner stay to attach since mainstay involves installing the roller furling.
 

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#8 ·
David:

Did you use 10' EMT lengths. I measured the distance form the stansions to the pulit and it looks like 10' will be just right.
I'm making one also to replace my Ginpole. Although the ginpole is longer and gives more leverage, the A frame is more stable.
I also got an idea from Utube to make anothe A frame from the deck hand rails to the mast slot to support the mast laterally. I'll see if i can find the clip and post it. It looks simple and secure.
 
#10 ·
I also found out that my stanchion plates are not placed the same on each side. Neither are my pad eyes for the shrouds. I think they said "That looks good" when they installed them. it also means my rigging is different in length from Port to Starboard. Not by a lot, but enough to almost have no more adjustment on my starboard side turnbuckle to make sure my mast is plumb.

Here is that U Tube cut of the mast raising rig on a Catalina 22. He uses chocks in the handholds and a gooseneck fitting in the mast groove that rides up and down to accommodate the difference in the hinge plane. Good idea. I'm going to try it.
YouTube - Mast Stepping Catalina 22 (1st Take)
 
#11 ·
masthead nekid

I think you'll find all kind of "fun facts" I've dealt with the assymetrical issue.

I have seen the catalina 22 and I don't want that type.
Look up the Telstar trimaran, several A-frames and yokes make a smooth stepping, but I'm just not that cool.
I already stress over that damn sailtrack, mine gets more lubing than I do! I didn't see wedging beneath th' hand holds as positive as stanchion base, I feel I have good control and allows for the torque. I used my 1/4" Spinoa halyard since it's hung outboard on a bale, I need to clear a midmast radar reflector. I'm gonna hang the antlers on her when it stops raining. This is a pix of the masthead, bale, side block is for the topping lift. I end up with 4 line aloft, there is also a st.stl. strap beneath the masthead crane, I use a Hood 705 and this strap/guide prevents "issues" with the roller and doesn't interfere at all w/Main halyard.
 

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#12 ·
David:
I meant the mast slot Aframe to be in addition to the stanchion Aframe. I'll look up the Telstar info for ideas.

Do you have a PVC conduit going up the outside of your mast? For wiring I presume. Nice idea, easy access. I hope you added another 1000# of ballast for all that stuff up there :)
 
#13 ·
I kept my mast stepping system very simple. I used a 10' 2x6 gin pole and an extension ladder for a mast crutch at the stern. I then simply used a line run from the end of the gin pole through a snap block on the bow and back to the jib sheet winch and hoisted her up. It's definately a two person job (one on the winch, one steadying the mast) and easier with 3, but it was actually much less difficult than I imagined.
 
#14 ·
That is the foil for the roller furling, kind of relaxed on the forestay.
I've always had the admiral assist with the stepping. Gustav made me reconsider my ways during "gusty" conditions. 12 years of doin' it one way and I'm changing it. I really hope to step the stick more often since I want to drag her around behind my dog.
linkey... Telstar Mast Raising - A Patented System
 
#15 ·
and more mast

Adding the antlers,
masthead nav/anchor w/antenna and windex. masthead light is carved out and modified to have a 1/4" clear (now yellowed) plexiglass top w/VHF antenna and windex. the plexi is to let out some light to illuminate wndex.
behind that I built a wing to lower everything ese below lights.is the rotovecta wind cups for the Raytheon St-40 and the rabbits foot of the industry a negative ion lightning protection device. May be a rabbits foot but it's MY rabbits foot.
This is hanging with max moment load, no sweat, but there isn't "gusty" conditions that started this mod.
 

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