Removing teak plugs
I'm removing the teak companionway trim, handrails, etc. to acid wash and recondition. I've never removed a good teak plug and replaced with a new teak plug before. I've read the best way to remove them is to drill a pilot hole in the center of the plug and drive a small screw in the plug that will extract the plug when it bottoms out on the existing screw head. Is this the best way? Any other tricks?
I have new 3/8" plugs for when I'm putting everything back together. I assume they are held in with more than friction fit. Waterproof glue sounds too permanent. What is the correct procedure and what sealant if any is used to hold the new screw plug?
The way you suggest should work fine but take care that you don't bugger-up the screwhead underneath as you never know for sure how deep the bung-hole actually is, in some cases.
We've simply used a woodworking scratch awl to gently pry up old bungs poke straight down in the center of the bung. Pry one direction with the grain and then pry side-to-side taking care NOT to damage the perimeter of the bung hole.
After you've done the work needed. Make sure the hole is clean (vacuum) and then seal the new bung in place by dipping the end in a little varnish (I pour a little in a pie tin wipe excess off by dragging the drips on the side of the plate). LINE UP wood grains and tap in place with a rubber mallet.
Knock ends off sticking up after its cured a bit with a sharp chisel taking care to keep the angle above the plane of the trim piece.
I don't like the drill/screw method. Sure it works in many cases, but there will always be a few that blow out the surrounding good teak. I found the best method so far is to use a sharp carving knife with a 1" long blade. going with the grain of the bung, insert sharp blade into bung gently at a 45 degree angle. You will get a little chip out of the bung, now work you way across the bung progressively deeper till it pops out. Sometimes it's necessary to go at it from both sides of the bung, working towards the center.
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