H460 - 2000 - Fresh H2O pressure

[ftt944]

Have Done the Deed and now have a number of questions about systems that need 'fixin'.

Most vexing is constant re-cyclying of H2O pressure pump, approximately 1 minute between cycles, because the lines are not holding pressure. Before we send a horde of plumbers' children to college, any suggestions out there about how to trace site of pressure loss in the H2O system?

[trantor12020]

Are you lossing water ? If not, check the water pump 1st. Maybe the check valves or flapper is passing, hence depressurising back to the tank.

[clubara]

Do any work in the vicinity of the water lines recently?

Ran into the same thing a couple of years ago on my 466. Ended up being a loose connector. We had some work done under the settee that had jostled the cold water line. Simply pressing the connectors back together got rid of the leak. I carry extra connectors and hose now in case one of these were to leak more catastrophically.

allan

s/v Follow You Follow Me

[labatt]

We also had the same problem. We had just done some work on the system and there was a slight drip from one of the hoses, causing very very gradual depressurization and making the pump run every few minutes. We tightened the hose clamp and life was good.

[captdave57]

The pressure sys. is designed with the check valve at the pump. the filter {should be}, on the inlet side of the pump between the tank and the pump. Advent #1, I put together a 4" x 24" clear plastic pipe with caps on both ends and a 1/2" inlet fitting near one end and a 1/2" fitting mid-way along the same plane on the body of the pipe. now the water under pressure comes in the chamber mid way up the pipe and fills the chamber with water and the air is compressed to the power of the pump. The other fitting is connected to the service line for the water system ahead of the "T" for the hot and cold seperation.
This is a way to increase the amount to water that can be used, before the pump in needed to re-pressurize the system and gives a much greater flow volume.
Now as far as the check valve on the pump, you may need to disconect the line in and out and look for some contamination in the check valve spring and ball orafice. I have done this on our 86 HUNTER 31.4, it work well. and you may have a small leek at some connection or Ihave also seen a small line puncture with a screw that was install to hold something else that caused a small leek. I hope this may help.
S/V "Faithful Girl" 32' 1986

[Bene505]

I had a leaky faucet in both the kitchen and crew quarters (same model faucet was used). I took them apart and cleaned the gaskets.

In this case I could 1) see the water trickling down the side of the faucets, 2) hear the pimp cycling on all the time, 3) see the water in the bilge as a result, and 4) may have noticed water loss form the tanks too.

Are #3 and #4 happening with your boat?

[Bene505]

We have a little blue tank on the pressure side of our f/w system, that does the same thing and works the same way. You can buy these instead of building them. I'll get a picture if you want one (and can wait until I'm on our boat next).

Originally Posted by captdave57

The pressure sys. is designed with the check valve at the pump. the filter {should be}, on the inlet side of the pump between the tank and the pump. Advent #1, I put together a 4" x 24" clear plastic pipe with caps on both ends and a 1/2" inlet fitting near one end and a 1/2" fitting mid-way along the same plane on the body of the pipe. now the water under pressure comes in the chamber mid way up the pipe and fills the chamber with water and the air is compressed to the power of the pump. The other fitting is connected to the service line for the water system ahead of the "T" for the hot and cold seperation.
This is a way to increase the amount to water that can be used, before the pump in needed to re-pressurize the system and gives a much greater flow volume.
Now as far as the check valve on the pump, you may need to disconect the line in and out and look for some contamination in the check valve spring and ball orafice. I have done this on our 86 HUNTER 31.4, it work well. and you may have a small leek at some connection or Ihave also seen a small line puncture with a screw that was install to hold something else that caused a small leek. I hope this may help.
S/V "Faithful Girl" 32' 1986

[camaraderie]

I believe you are talking about accumulator tanks which reduce pressure cycles and smooth water flow. The tank itself may be an issue...make sure the pressure valve is closed. If there is constant cycling...there is either a small air leak in the system or a faulty pressure valve on the pump. The latter is the place to start as it is easier to diagnose and fix or eliminate as an issue.

If there is a leak...the place it will likely be is at a joint/hose clamp. Tighten all of those and look for obvious issues like water drips as a first step. If that does not do the trick the only alternative is to eliminate the section of hose where the loss is occurring by working forward from the pump outlet to the individual joints and removing the hose at those joints and plugging the hose up tight. If the pressure holds...then move on to the next joint etc. until you find what section is at issue and then simply inspect and/or replace it.

[velero]

Are you shure that is the fresh water system? Do you leave your sump pumps breaker on all the time? On my H46 I have 2 sump pumps that collects water from the drains of both showers and the A/C drains (which I conected myself to the sumps). The sumps drive me crazy at night because the switch is very sensitive and runs like you describe every few minutes. The forward one is the one that bothers me the most but I think both of them do the same thing. The one in the middle of the boat is near the fresh water pump.

Good luck,

Velero