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RoboSol 06-15-2013 08:15 PM

Islander 34 Companionway Door
 
I need to build a companionway door for my Islander 34. Has anyone had the experience of building one?

Faster 06-15-2013 09:53 PM

Re: Islander 34 Companionway Door
 
This need not be complicated project.. but it can vary. Are you envisioning an opening, hinged 'door' or the more common drop board style of closure?

We've done both types.. drop boards, screened drop boards for summertime, but years ago made a set of hinged, louvered doors for our Viking 28. It was quite a project, luckily teak was less costly and more available then. Close on 30 years ago now and I think the door's still in place but it's been a couple of years since I've seen the boat. I milled the louvers on a table saw, bought 'lift off' hinges so that the doors could be put away while sailing. It turned out pretty nice.

Drop boards nowadays are often acrylic to let more light in. Starboard is another material you might consider for that job. It machines quite nicely on a table saw and with a router, and can be bought with an attractive pebbled finish - in a variety of colours now too.

RoboSol 06-16-2013 01:11 AM

Re: Islander 34 Companionway Door
 
I will be doing a drop board type of closure. I will consider Starboard instead of wood. Other than fabrication, is there any real advantage of bevel vs routing?

bljones 06-16-2013 09:50 AM

Re: Islander 34 Companionway Door
 
bevel is less likely to get mossy/mildewy/mouldy- sheds water better than a routed fit.

I built a pair of doors three years ago- one of the handiest boat projects ever. when you have two dogs dying to get out of the small cabin in the morning for their morning shore patrol, it's really nice to be able to simply fling a door open, rather than trying to remove and stow two or three or four drop boards.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Uk2ya1Yb_C...r+Pics+131.jpg

H2814D 07-01-2013 01:47 AM

Re: Islander 34 Companionway Door
 
1 Attachment(s)
I know this is a little late in coming, but I would suggest making cardboard templates of your existing door panels, that is if they fit properly now, as opposed to simply taking measurements of the sides and angles. I made the mistake when I just took the physical door frame measurements when I was building an AC mount (see the pic) for the doorway.

I had to go back and use the template method to get the "fit" right. My measurements were right on, but the doorway was not true or square, whatever the correct term would be anyway. Since the original doors did fit, it was easy to make templates and work off of them. I wasted some material (cheap wood, but only for the mount you see in the picture below) and my time, because I had to go back and re-measure/draw the templates.

Just letting you know.


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