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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Islander
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  #11  
Old 10-14-2010
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Sound Marine Diesel

2 more cents....If you look at Beta you might want to get a quote from Joe DeMers at Sound Marine Diesel in Connecticut. I live in Texas and mail ordered mine from him. Joe is a wealth of knowlege and the savings from not paying State taxes more than offset the shipping costs. That, and he can get you everything else you need for the repower.

soundmarinediesel dot com

Also, if you compare Yanmar with Beta just based on list pricing, I seem to remember that it wasn't apples to apples. Just make sure that transmission, couplings, etc.. are included in both prices.
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  #12  
Old 10-15-2010
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spillarc,
did you do the install yourself? if so how did you get the old and new motors out of the engine compartment. I think the old volvo will be easy in pieces, but not sure about the new.

any tips are appreciated!

kent
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  #13  
Old 10-15-2010
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oops didnt see page two. I am in Seattle, the Yanmar is a builders kit that comes with mounts, coupling, transmission and electrical panel and harness for $6600. What did the Beta cost, just curious?
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  #14  
Old 10-15-2010
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Repower Islander Bahama 30

I hired someone to help me with the install, but I did as much as I could myself.

For removing the old engine we removed as many pieces as possible as the Volvo weighs 400+ [lbs]. We then put the boat on the hard and used the shipyard's crane to hoist the engine out (you definitely need a couple of people guiding the engine out of the engine compartment and companionway hatch...Not so easy). The new engine, being almost half the weight, was, by comparison, much easier to drop in. We built a wooden frame that fit in the companionway hatch that we could attach block & tackle to for raising and lowering the engine into the engine compartment and work on the mounting.

As for costs of the Beta it worked out something like this as I added some options.

Beta 16 Base (including Transimission and Coupling) $ 5,698.00
Upgrade from 40A to 60A Alternator $ 316.00
Upgrade to Control Panel C (their best) $ 498.00
Hot Water Heater Connections Added $ 39.00
High Rise Exhaust Option $ 209.00
Built-in Oil Pump for oil changes $ 150.00 approx.
New Plastic Recess to Mount the Control Panel $ 48.00

Approx. price of other misc. items.
New shaft $200.00 approx.
New prop (3 bladed Michigan Wheel) $ 450.00 approx.
Misc hardware, hoses, sea water strainer, filters etc.. $ 400.00 approx.

Shipping was free to a commercial address.

They make an oil pan that is slightly shallower that I ordered because I thought I needed it ($200.00). I was able to use the standard oil pan, but I may install the shallower one in the future as it would allow the oil removing pump to sit a little higher which I would prefer...Not a big deal though.

The quotes I received for installing the engine were really all over the place, so much so that it made me want to tackle as much of the job as possible. I may be wrong on this, but I believe that Yanmar may require you to use one of their dealer/installers for valid warranty on the engine. I received pricing on a Yanmar 14 installed in the $10K-12K range and a Yanmar 20 as I as $18K. Not sure why the big cost difference as the 14Hp and 20Hp were not that far off on the base price.

With that said, I recommend doing your homework on who you hire to do the install. I wasn't that happy with who I hired, but the price was right. I ended up having to correct a few things myself.

My install, all said and done, fell in the $10-$11k range after yard fees and paying my help.

Hope this helps some.
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  #15  
Old 10-20-2010
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Repowered myself with a Beta

I replaced a Volvo MD6A (close to the MD7A) with a Beta 16. Did all the work myself, and I had zero experience with diesels before all this. I have a Seafarer 31 Yawl, which has pretty long overhangs, not only making the engine compartment tight, but also sloping upwards behind the engine.

Here is everything I had to change/accomodate for the repower:

1) The old engine mounts were totally inadequate, so I had to fabricate new stringers, which had to be 2" higher than the old mounts. Not being experienced with this, it took a long time to do this.
2) The Beta transmission is shorter than the Volvo, so I had to replace the shaft with one that was about 6+ inches longer.
3) The propeller on the Volvo was a LH rotation, where the Beta is RH. With more RPM, I used the same diameter with a lower pitch.
4) While I was at it, I rebuilt the shaft log (which had originally been a bronze rudder fixture) using G10 fiberglass tubing glassed in place. I had gotten much better at fiberglass work, so this wasn't so bad.
5) The exhaust hose on the Volvo was 1.5", on the Beta it needed to be 2". Also added a waterlift muffler. Upgraded to a hi-rise exhaust manifold due to the rise behind the engine.
6) I had to replace the raw water intake seacock from 1/2" to 3/4" to match the water hose and fittings.
7) I replaced the old corroded steel fuel tank with a Moeller plastic tank, and replaced all the old copper fuel lines with rubber hoses and added two new fuel shut-offs. Added a new Racor filter.
8) Replaced the instrument panel (upgraded to the B panel)
9) Had to reverse the gear shift and throttle controls, and get longer cables.

Well, I got the boat back in the water. Added fuel, oil, and antifreeze. Connected the battery. Bled the lines and injectors. The thing started right up. No leaks, no unusual vibrations. Much quieter than the Volvo. No one was more shocked than I was. Works great, but it took a few more time of bleeding the lines and injectors before it was good to go.



Dan
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  #16  
Old 10-21-2010
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thanks to both of you! I spoke with the local Yanmar dealer and they sell a builders kit, that includes the motor and transmission, mounts, panel, and coupling. They will then spend a day after I do the install going over everything to make sure the install is correct and everything lined up before firing it up the first time. That way if there is a problem on start up, it is there problem!

kent
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  #17  
Old 03-13-2011
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Bahama 30 repower

Danjcon, spillarc
Did your re-powers require the angled transmission option? I have an islander 30 and just acquired a used Beta 14 with the standard transmission. Also, I'd be interested to know what diameter and pitch props you used.
TIA
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Last edited by shogan50; 03-13-2011 at 12:19 PM.
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  #18  
Old 03-14-2011
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Beta Marine Transmission and Prop specs

shogan50,

My Beta 16 has the straight TMC 40 Transmission. I had to have some engine mounts fabricated to raise the engine in order to achieve the proper shaft alignment.

As for the prop pitch and diameter I will have to see if I still have the paperwork on the prop next time I'm on the boat. I would recommend calling Stanley at Beta Marine (877-277-2473) as he recommended the one I'm using based on my boat and the 16Hp engine. It's a three bladed Michigan Wheel prop that may be a little too large as I haven't been able to achieve full rpm, yet. The Beta 16 (and 14) are both rated for 3600 RPM and I get about 3100; however, there could possibly be other reasons beyond the prop that I haven't explored so far. Even I 3100RPMs it moves me along very well. I believe this could possibly be a throttle cable/adjustment issue, but could also be too much prop.

I'll let you know on the prop after my next trip to the boat.
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  #19  
Old 05-09-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kentg View Post
I will be repowering sometime in the future, the MD-7A is getting tired. I have problems with exhaust fumes coming into the cockpit unless we leave the forward dodger window out. Has anyone ran the exhaust out the side of the hull instead of the transom?

kent
B30
jazzed
Hi, are you still planing to run the exaust out the side ?

hanscan
B30 Passat
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  #20  
Old 05-10-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hanscan View Post
Hi, are you still planing to run the exaust out the side ?

hanscan
B30 Passat
Have not decided yet. Probably not, based on the other comments on the thread. I am also putting off the repower for another year. I pulled my head and found 1 water passage completely blocked, and the others around 1/4 blocked. After cleaning them out and having the valves ground, my overheating problem is gone. Wish I had done it a couple years ago!
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