Repowering a Bahama 30 - SailNet Community
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-03-2013 Thread Starter
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Repowering a Bahama 30

I have bought a Bahama 30 project boat sans engine. It probably had a 2 cylinder Volvo Penta originally. I know of a good 3 cylinder Universal M25 available for sale. Is it a match? Anyone with experience repowering this boat?
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post #2 of 11 Old 03-03-2013
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Re: Repowering a Bahama 30

Depending on the year, it may have had the Volvo, but it also may have had the optional Yanmar 2GM(F). Sorry, don't have any experience with repowering, but I can tell you that the Yanmar is a very tight fit. Measure VERY carefully, and look at how you'll be able to access key pieces such as the dipstick, lift pump, filters, hoses, and bleeder screws. You don't want to have to be a Gumby, whose arms bend into an "S" shape to get to something!

T. P. Donnelly
S/V Tranquility Base
1984 Islander 30 Bahama
Pasadena, MD
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post #3 of 11 Old 03-05-2013
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Re: Repowering a Bahama 30

I just relaced the MD7-A in my 1982 IB30 with a Beta 16. Excellent fit with Volvo Legs
supplied and exellent factory support for "do it yourself " Check it out, i am glad i did.
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post #4 of 11 Old 03-20-2013
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Re: Repowering a Bahama 30

I've had two Islander Bahama 30s, the first with an Atomic 4, the current with the original Volvo MD7A. The Volvo ran strong but was corroding from the inside (raw water cooling). I have just repowered with a Beta 20 on a new Sea Prop 60 sail drive unit (comes as a package from Beta). I chose a Beta 20 over the 13 and 16 as I wanted three cylinders for a smoother running engine. I have been very pleased with the results to date. There is an annoying ticking noise at idle that Beta is still working to correct, but the basic package has worked out very well. With the Beta all the service points are at the front (with the exception of the fresh water cooling system zinc) which makes working on the engine in the tight B30 compartment easy. I posted a daily log of how I did this re-power on the Islander 36 Association website (Islander 36 Maintenance) under Propulsion Systems/Natasha Engine Replacement. It's a bit long and includes redoing the bottom and electrical, but does include photos of the new engine base and compartment. The document also includes the decision making process for selecting the Beta 20 and saildrive combination.

Bert Vermeer
s/v Natasha
Sidney, BC
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-28-2013
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Re: Repowering a Bahama 30

I repowered an Islander 30 MK II (almost identical to the Bahama 30) with a Beta 13.5. I like it. The original engine was an Atomic 4. I had a mechanic to all the work. The only problem was the prop pitch. The Atomic 4 had an 8 pitch 2 bladed folding prop. Sorry I forget the diameter. The formula that Beta had said with the 13.5 I should have a 12 pitch prop. Wrong! After a year I repitchd to 9 and it is much more efficient, more power in waves, etc. The original with eh A 4 was 2 bladed folding, this is 2 bladed fixed. If at first it seems like you do not have the power you expected check the pitch of the prop. Does the engine run the expected number of RPM at full bore? Does the stern squat? These are good indicators the pitch is wrong.

John on Aquila
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post #6 of 11 Old 11-23-2014
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Repowering a Bahama 30

Anyone know if the water intake needs to be changed to a 3/4 outlet for the beta?
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post #7 of 11 Old 11-23-2014
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Re: Repowering a Bahama 30

The Beta manual calls for 7/8th" (22mm) fitting/inside diameter of the hose.
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post #8 of 11 Old 11-23-2014
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Repowering a Bahama 30

Interesting. So you had to increase the size of your through hull? I am planning for repower to a beta 16.

I know the the through hulls have a flush finish on the hull exterior. I assume they are recessed and glassed over and therefore I will need to grind it out.
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post #9 of 11 Old 11-23-2014
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Re: Repowering a Bahama 30

I cannot recall the diameter of the through-hull, but I think it was smaller than 7/8th". Probably 3/4". I put in a saildrive unit, thus the old through-hull was glassed over. The engine now gets raw water through the saildrive leg. However, the old through-hull was not glassed over from the outside, it's simply recessed into the hull in a tapered v. Once the old engine is out you should be able to back the inside nut off (plastic), probably on a plywood backing plate. Hit the through-hull with a hammer and it should pop out. Putting a 7/8" in may pose a bit of a problem, depending on what size the outer flange is. You could glass in the old hole and then re-drill for the new fitting. Or grind the old hole out with a Dremel to the right size, then use 3M 5200 sealant to put the new one in. That will never leak, and never come out. If you're interested in my installation have a look at the Islander 36 Association web site Islander 36 Maintenance and have a look under Maintenance - Repowering Natasha. Or send me an email to bvermeer@shaw.ca and I will sent the document to you.
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Last edited by bvermeer; 11-23-2014 at 10:50 PM. Reason: Errors
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post #10 of 11 Old 11-24-2014
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Re: Repowering a Bahama 30

good repower link ^^^^ btw

Islander 36 now FOR SALE!
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