How I Jacked Up My Islander 28 Cabin Top for Compression Post Repair - SailNet Community
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How I Jacked Up My Islander 28 Cabin Top for Compression Post Repair

I thought it would be better to put this as a separate topic versus adding it to "Compression post repair". Compresion post repaired
When I first read the Compression post repair thread, I was asking myself, where did you put the jack or jacks and how? For my repair, I removed my mast. I posted a detailed method of how I fixed my compression post but was to busy at the time to snap some pictures.

So, I still HAVE MY MAST OFF, the metal post having two small holes, and making it difficult to fish wiring through, I went back and removed the metal post. I took pictures of how I raised up the cabin top with a jack.

There are many ways to raise up the cabin top to perform the repairs on the compression post and cabin sole, this is how I did it, and feel free to post up your method. It is a good idea to have another set of hands around to help with my method, it can be done alone, but takes some circus talent to balance everything.

During my compression post repair, I did two separate procedures. I first raised up the cabin top with the metal post attached to the counter, repaired the cabin sole, then lowered everything. I then raised up the cabin top with the metal post unscrewed from the counter top. Both procedure have the same location of the jack on the cabin sole, but the board placement at the cabin top was different.

First procedure for raising the cabin top with everything as is and to fix the cabin sole.

The equipment I used:

several 2x4's
2 pieces of 3/4 plywood
Screw type bottle Jack from my late 80's Toyota
Several wood door frame shims

Here is the Jack, I find it gives you better control to use a screw type jack versus a hydraulic jack. I guess you could use a scissor type too.

I first placed a long piece of 3/4 plywood up against the sautee across from the compression post, a 2x4 on the cabin sole just behind where the cabin sole starts to slant, the cabin floor is angled too, and I had to place a wood shim under the 2x4 to level it some. Here is the picture.

I then stacked several several 2x4's on top of each other, put the jack on top, then put a 2x4 between the jack and the sautee plywood board, this will keep the jack from "kicking out" while jacking up the cabin top. I then cut a piece of 2x4 close to the distance from the jack to the top of the metal post and put it on grooved part to help keep it in place. I then placed the other end where the flange and base of the metal post meets. My picture has the cabin top to metal post bolts removed, but pretend they are still there, remember jacking everthing up all tied together. So, raising the cabin top will raise the bottom of the bulk head up as a complete unit. Here is the pictures.

I made sure the head door was open, then jacked up the cabin top until the cut out cabin sole plywood could be moved. I then placed wood shims between the cabin sole and bulk head at the head door, and at the location where the table slides in, just past the areas to be removed. I had removed my table off the hinge bracket to get the table out of the way during the repairs. I then let the cabin top back down, the wood shims keep the corner of the bulk head up, and you can move all the 2x4's, etc, out of the way while removing the cabin sole and making the rest of the repairs.

Then raise the cabin topup same as before, remove the shims, and let everything back down on to the newly repared cabin sole.

Next step is to jack up the cabin top with the metal post screws in the counter removed. Jack set up on the floor is the same or you can even put the jack more in line using the newly repaired part of the cabin sole. The top placement of the 2x4 is different, you need a piece of 3/4 plywood, and another 2x4. Here is the picture, remember the two bolts are still in the metal post at the top passing through the cabin top. I had already removed mine to remove the post at the point I took the picture.

I had to add another 2x4 behind the metal post because when I tried to raise the cabin top, the teak wood block between the cabin top and metal post would not move with the bulk head. So, the gap at the rear of the teak wood block would get bigger. I solved this by cutting a pice of 2x4 that fir between the counter and teak block and support the block whild raising the cabin top. Here is the picture

I then raised up the cabin top until I could remove the metal post. I then fixed the counter top with a piece of 3/4 teak and put another piece glued and screwed to the bottom over the splice. To remove the post, you need the wires spliced somewhere to be able to pull them out from the post as you remove it.

This is a good time to fix the metal post small hole at each end, making it difficult to fish the wires through it on reassembly. I opened them up to 1 3/8 diameter and put in a piece of 1 inch PVC (1 3/8 OD), approximatlely 3 feet long. Now its easy to fish the wires through the metal post.

I supported the cabin top with a 2x4, removed the jack etc, while I did the modifications to the metal post. Here is the picture

After the metal post modification, I raised the cabin top as before, put the metal post in place and lowered the cabin top, finished.

Here is where I posted up my complete compression post fix.
Compresion post repaired

How about posting up your method? Always more then one way to skin a cat.
Hope this helps the DIY Islander 28 community.
510datsun is offline  
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