boom

kwas · #1 (**permalink**) 08-19-2006

coming about on a beam reach to beam reach should the main be trimed when heading directly upwind to prevent the boom from slaming to its new position?

mike dryver · #2 (**permalink**) 08-19-2006

what i do is use the preventer (attached to toe rail on same side as boom in initial position). move preventer to new tack position let the jib/genoa come over, the main sheet is still in same position from previous tack, then slowly let out main sheet so i don't let boom fly and slam across. works very well, but slow, you loose a little boat speed but i single hand a lot and this works for me. i'm not in a rush when i sail.

regards mike

sailingfool · #3 (**permalink**) 08-19-2006

Kwas,

Say what? If you are tacking your boat from one reach to the other, the boom won't move any faster than the speed of your tack, so no problem with "slamming', just leave the sheet alone.

If you actually mean gybing from reach to reach, then you need to worry about slamming, also known as a :chinese gybe". We trim the main to center line as the stern crosses the wind, then quickly let it run out to the new position.

good luck.

sailingdog · #4 (**permalink**) 08-20-2006

Sailingfool has it right... slamming is not an issue when tacking...but is a serious risk when gybing. A preventer or boom brake is an excellent idea for most cruising boats, both for safety and to protect the equipment.

nolatom · #5 (**permalink**) 08-21-2006

Sounds like you're talking about tacking into the wind rather than jibing downwind. If so, are you doing it for comfort, or for speed? If speed isn't critical, and you have enough momentum to carry you through onto the new tack, you can leave the mainsheet alone, concentrate on getting the jib around, sheet it in as it fills on the new tack, then ease it out to a reach as you bear off, it'll keep you moving and turning too and then the main will fill itself.

If speed and more momentum are important, then you should trim both main and jib as you come up from a reach to close-hauled on the old tack, then tack 90 degrees (roughly) from close-hauled to close-hauled, then ease both main and jib as you bear off onto the reach.