How to setup the cunningham - J24 - SailNet Community
LinkBack Thread Tools
post #1 of 4 Old 05-25-2010 Thread Starter
Junior Member
Drake76's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sudbury, Ontario
Posts: 24
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
How to setup the cunningham - J24

I am nearly there. I have a question about the main cunningham. I have read articles about how to set it up, but a picture would assist me even more.

Harken's article about block # connects to block # etc, really isn't doing it for me.

Can anyone offer a photo or simpler advice? I have attached a photo of my gooseneck. I realize I have to run a line up through it to the grommet on the main, but then what? Am I tying it off at the grommet or passing it through to something...

Sorry, I bought a boat with the mast down. I have never seen it up, and have no other J's to compare it to. The images on google have failed me too.


Drake76 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
Sponsored Links
post #2 of 4 Old 05-25-2010
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: New Orleans
Posts: 2,025
Thanks: 8
Thanked 40 Times in 37 Posts
Rep Power: 11
first, it looks like your gooseneck plates are splayed out? Pull them back together so you can put a pin thru the holes.

Then tie your cunningham line to one of the unused holes, lead it up thru the sail cringle, then back down other side a short ways. Tie a small block to it, a few inches above where you are going to put a clam-cleat into the mast. Then tie a line from one of the gooseneck holes, up through the block and down through this cleat. Now you have a 4 to 1 advantage.
nolatom is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #3 of 4 Old 05-26-2010 Thread Starter
Junior Member
Drake76's Avatar
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Sudbury, Ontario
Posts: 24
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
I believe the gooseneck is supposed to look like it does. I have gone to the Kenyon site and they have a picture of it, just like that.

I didn't appreciate that the cunningham actually ran up a portion of the sail. This may be the piece of the puzzle I was missing. Thanks
Drake76 is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook
post #4 of 4 Old 05-30-2010
Senior Member
paulk's Avatar
Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: CT/ Long Island Sound
Posts: 2,611
Thanks: 4
Thanked 26 Times in 25 Posts
Rep Power: 16
more than you wanted to know?

Have never seen a tack fitting splayed out like that, and can't figure out why it would be like that or how it would work, so I understand Nolatom's concern. Further reading about the J/24 class, however, mentions that the mainsails have "floating tacks", and one article J 24 Tuning Guide (dated 2002, by Shore Sails) suggests cutting the tangs off entirely, since "they're not needed". I cannot find any pictures of it, but the best advice might be to check the J/24 association website for the latest information on how the boat is rigged.

The Cunningham was invented because sails can't be stretched beyond the black bands on the mast. (This is so that all the sails in one class are the same size.) In light air, it pays to have fuller sails, as big as is allowed. If the wind increases and your sail is already pulled out as far as the black bands allow, how do you make the sail flatter (for improved performance in the higher wind) without pulling the downhaul beyond the bottom band? Enter the cunningham. It is essentially an extra-high tack grommet, invented by America's Cup helmsman Briggs Cunningham, which enables you to pull down on the main luff without making the boom go lower (beyond the black band.) Any sort of multiple purchase setup will work. You could attach a block to one of your tack-fitting holes (since you don't need the tack fitting...) and attach a line to the tack fitting on the other side. Run the line up through the cunningham hole, through the block, and back through the cunningham hole. You can then tie it off to the tack fitting somehow, or end it in some other convenient place. Harken will sell you blocks to make the thing 40:1 if you want it, but more than 4:1 is probably overkill.

Last edited by paulk; 05-30-2010 at 10:17 PM.
paulk is offline  
Quote Quick Reply Share with Facebook

Quick Reply

By choosing to post the reply above you agree to the rules you agreed to when joining Sailnet.
Click Here to view those rules.

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the SailNet Community forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
Please note: After entering 3 characters a list of Usernames already in use will appear and the list will disappear once a valid Username is entered.

User Name:
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:


Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electric J24 davidpm Gear & Maintenance 4 01-24-2010 12:56 PM
cunningham rgberry53 General Discussion (sailing related) 17 12-20-2009 07:53 PM
capsize screen J24 question websdf Racing 1 07-25-2002 05:39 PM
suggestions on motor size for j24? ctesluk Gear & Maintenance 3 02-18-2002 07:15 AM
New and Improved Laser Controls Dan Neri Racing Articles 0 11-28-2001 07:00 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome