genoa cars and travellers

[rmeador]

Hi all,
Stupid question here that I probably should have learned long ago (or I did learn and I forgot), but it's proving rather difficult to search for. Can anyone give me some rules of thumb for where to put the genoa cars and traveller in different conditions and on different points of sail? I know (at least, I think I know) that the traveller should be to windward when sailing close hauled, and to leeward when on a reach or running. I have basically no idea what to do with the genoa cars, so I always leave them about half way along the track, which puts them slightly aft of amidships. I'd appreciate any advice you could give me.

If it matters, I have a sloop rig with a ~120% genoa. I do not have a cunningham or vang on my main. Also, I've got an extra set of genoa cars that do not have blocks on them, so I've been thinking about buying blocks for them and keeping them all the way aft, so I can run the sheets from the winch, through the aft car, to the forward (mobile) car, and then to the sail. This would hopefully prevent the need to reroute the sheets between different sets of stanchions when changing the genoa car position. Good idea or bad idea? I also have a set of blocks very far aft that I believe are meant for a spinnaker, but I have also contemplated using them for this purpose.

[blt2ski]

I've taken and folded in half ALL my 4 jibs, and drawn a 1-2' black sharpie marker at the clew. This is the approx line that the sheet should be at when sailing in normal conditions. So the carr should be pulled fore or aft accordingly. If the wind is on the light side, you move the carr a bit forward. winder aft. How much depends. For my for the most part deck sweeper 155, this is a few inches. For a sail like my 140 I cruise or day sail with, the clew is a couple of feet off the deck/carr. so the carr gets moved 6-9" to get the same results that 2" will do with the 155 that is 2" above the deck/carr.

Yeah I know, not exact, BUT, this unfortunately, is one of those, you need to start somewhere, and then play with the base to fit your needs, sails choosen etc.

Another thing I did, I used a silver sharper as the tracks are black anodized alum, I marked the feet lines back from the bow, so if on one tack the car is set two holes or inches in front of 19, then the other side can get set without a load, or in my case, I can pull for or aft being as I have line control cars, I can get adjustments at just about any length back etc i want.

Marty

[sck5]

rule of thumb is that the sheet should bisect the angle made by the foot and leech at the clew. One sign you have it wrong is that the leech is fluttering so you move the car forward to increase tension on the leech (because this will cause the sheet to pull down more than back). Alternatively, if the foot is too loose you move the car back to increase the tension on the foot (because this will cause the sheet to pull back more than down).

[rmeador]

Thank you both for your info. I hadn't previously heard about the bisected clew angle thing, I'll give that a check. But that seems to be a fixed angle based on the sail, right? What would make it change in different conditions or points of sail? sck5 alludes to tightening the leech or the foot, which I already understood the theory of how to use the cars to do, but I don't know when I would want to tighten or loosen them. Thanks again!

[sailingfool]

the objective of the lead position is to not distort the head-to-foot shape of the sail, as evidenced by the luff breaking evenly, top to bottom.

When closehauled, if you head up and the top of the jib luffs first, move the car forward. If the bottom of the sail luffs first, move the car aft. Simple.


If you are reaching, move the lead forward and out in pursuit of the even luff. I usually attach a temp short sheet run via a snatch block on the rail.

[blt2ski]

The angle is the same per say, but not really. On my boat, the carrs are set at 18.7' from the bow for the 155, 17.6 or so for the 140, 16.x' for the 130 and around 14' for the 110 on my lower outside tracks, the 110 is around 12.5' when on my cabintop cars that are at a tighter angle of attack.

If you have a reefing jib, as you pull some of the jib in, the car needs to go forward to keep the line pull correct.

Reality, yes this angle changes, based on the foot/LP of the Head sail.

Higher winds, pull the carr back, as that will open up the upper leach some, reducing to a degree the sail size, allowing you to sail in higher winds without heeling as much. Move the carr forward in lighter winds, this allows the foot to be more rounded, allowing a bit better pull from the given wind, driving you faster in lighter airs.

At least this is the general how and why to that I follow. I like the pen marks on the jibs, as this gives me a better visual vs the "I think" it is correct........I have a place to start, then can adjust as conditions change. I've also tried to put base marks on the track for the given jibs, such that we do not have to remember.

Also reaching or running. you may need to mover the car forward also. For my 155 running, the carr is at the same place on the track that the 110 uses for pointing.

Marty

[nolatom]

I was taught that you started with aiming the sheet ten degrees above the dotted line from clew to mid-luff when close-hauled, then fine-tune from there so your telltales all break about the same, or maybe the upper ones break just before the next ones below.