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  #21  
Old 12-20-2011
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I tried flying my symmetrical solo a few times. The wind was below 5 kts and I was on a downwind coarse. It made a huge difference in boat speed. I do have a tiller pilot and a sock. The advantage of the spin over the genoa or jib is the lighter material will fill and obtain it's desired shape much easier. W/o the sock I am just not able to do it solo yet. Maybe more practice I will be able to, but I am not inclined to try at this time.

Also, it is just fun flying the chute. In my book that is worth the effort.
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  #22  
Old 12-20-2011
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I think after all these good suggestions that PRACTICE is the key idea. I'm sure there is a way to get that sail up and down alone with enough experiment and practice.
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  #23  
Old 12-20-2011
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I apologize that this is from an earlier post which I wrote for a different discussion so it does not acknowlege all of the good advice above.

I frequently use my spinnaker single-handed. When I bought my boat I hand planned for and set her up for single-handed racing and so have carried spinnaker on deep reaches and runs in true winds just below 20 knots (at least according to the gauges). I also use the spinnaker when cruising.

My views run a little counter to many of the currently popular views about short-handed spinnaker handling. I strongly believe that a single-hander has a much harder time dealing with a problem if something goes wrong than a fully crewed race boat. Therefore decisions need to be based on what works most reliably.

Because of this, I am not a fan of asymmetrical chutes for single-handing. Although an Asymmetrical chute allows a jibe from the cockpit, an asymmetric is more likely to get a wrap during a jibe or a take down. And once wrapped a single-hander does not have the crew to reliably clear up the mess. So I while I may believe that it may be reasonable to use an asymmetrical chute short-handed, I am opposed to them for single-handing.

Similarly, I am opposed to stuffers. My problem with stuffers for single-handing is the frequency with which I see them jammed in the half in/half out position and my own experience trying to deal with one. It is easy to get an undetected wrap in the chute while it is in the sock. In the best case this simply results in an hourglass. But the worst case is when the sock starts to open where the chute can partially fill making it very difficult to re-deploy the sock. As a single-hander you cannot afford to get stuck on the foredeck for long periods of time and clearing a partially open, jammed sock with a partially full chute requires more hands and more time that a single-hander can safely afford.

As a result I prefer symmetrical chutes for single-handing. That said, symmetrical chutes really need to be set up for flying a chute single-handed. Ideally the halyard, pole lift and downhaul (foreguy), Sheets, and twings should be led back to the cockpit. It is important to have a reliable self-steering method in order to jibe safely. It is important to be able to end for end jibe since it takes one extra person to dip-pole jibe. I also mark my sheets for the correct setting for the jibe.

To raise, I typically raise the sail with the turtle on he leeward rail forward and under the jib, (old school racing style). I preset the guy so that the pole is off the headstay about a foot. On the raise the jib partially blankets the chute so that it does not fill until fully hoisted. I then pole back, and sheet in. While set up time is longer, it is nearly as quick a raise as a racing set.

To jibe, I slightly lower the pole lift so I can reach the pole end and so the sail had a more stable flying shape. I then head the boat onto a deep broad reach with the wind on the tack that I started on and set the autopilot. I adjust the sheets so that they are even (by the marks) and in position to fly at a deep angle. I then twing down the old sheet/new guy and leave the old guy/new sheet twinged as well. This adjustment should allow the sail to fly pole-less. At that point I walk forward on the windward side and jibe the pole. At that point the sail is full but without a pole on the windward side.

I then return to the cockpit and jibe the mainsail as I turn onto the new tack. Once the mainsail is jibed, I release the twing on the old guy/ new sheet and head up to my course, adjusting sheet and guy as I go.

The drop is probably the hardest part. I typically make sure the halyard has a clear figure-8 coil rather than the typical round coil that most folk do. The figure-8 coil takes the hackles out of the line and more or less assures that it will run free. In light air, I release the guy and let it run, but in heavier air, I do an old fashion ‘flag drop’ in which the guy snap shackle is released and the sail flags out behind the mainsail. I typically put one wrap on the winch and sit to one side of the main companionway where I can release the stopper and “butt cleat” the halyard.
Like everyone else has said, it is easiest to drop the chute down the backside of the mainsail and into the companionway hatch. The key here is to walk the sheet over to the hatch, sit down and gather the foot of the chute so it is in a bundle before your release the halyard. Then hand over hand the sail, keeping it bundled as it drops. If at any point it seems to be getting away from you, lock the halyard, gather the sail back into a bundle and drop the rest of the way.

You can do a similar flag drop with an asymmetrical chute by either releasing the tackline or else releasing the snap shackle on the tack line. This is a surprisingly safe drop even in comparatively heavy air.

Other precautions and tips are:
• Practice is important. At first you may want to practice single-handing with crew on board to help if something goes wrong.
• Make sure the sheets are long enough to easily wrap around the boat and into the cockpit again. Since I can’t afford to jettison a sail, sheets and halyard, I personally put stoppers in my sheets and halyard, but I also wear a sharp knife on a lanyard. (Old school).
• It is important that there are no sharp spots on your boom, or on or near your companionway that could catch the sail and rip it or prevent it from dropping.
• I typically furl the jib after the raise and unfurl before the drop so the jib acts as a spinnaker net preventing a wrap.
• Practice is in moderate air is very important. Light air makes it hard to fill the chute and heavy air makes the douse harder.
• Rig good reliable jacklines on both sides of the boat and get a well made, comfortable, pressure-activated, inflatable harness, wear it and hank on religiously. I try to always hank on the windward side. I use old Kevlar halyards for jacklines since they have minimal stretch and so would keep me from reaching the leeward rail. There are negatives to using halyards in that they are round and so can slip under foot. I also have used flat webbing with a stainless steel wire-rope inside, but they don’t slide very easy.
• Check your pole end fittings and keep them lubed and working easily.
• Oh! And did I say that practice and prep is very important, but with both, you will find that tacking single-handed is harder than flying the chute.
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  #24  
Old 12-20-2011
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is the info in this thread ...

http://www.sailnet.com/forums/gear-m...tml#post808926

helpful to this discussion ?

Is the furler a good tool for the short handed crew ?
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  #25  
Old 12-20-2011
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I have read this post before and found it very helpful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H View Post
It is important to be able to end for end jibe since it takes one extra person to dip-pole jibe.
Quote:
I also mark my sheets for the correct setting for the jibe.
Sounds like a good idea... I should do this at some point. Many times I have had to run back to the cockpit from the foredeck because there wasn't enough slack in the guy, for example.

Quote:
To raise, I typically raise the sail with the turtle on he leeward rail forward and under the jib, (old school racing style). I preset the guy so that the pole is off the headstay about a foot.
How is the jib trimmed when you do this? I have not had a problem with this method, but trimming the jib similar and launching from the cockpit I have noticed a lot of friction between the chute and the jib or its sheet, making it impossible to pull the chute out of the bag.

While I have found launching from a turtle on the bow or just forward of the mast much, much easier, I like the concept of launch from the cockpit since in principle it means I can relaunch again later without moving things around (assuming I'm on the same tack).

Quote:
Oh! And did I say that practice and prep is very important, but with both, you will find that tacking single-handed is harder than flying the chute.
Okay, this is hard to believe Surely jibing the chute is at least as difficult as tacking, and when tacking not much can go dangerously wrong.
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  #26  
Old 12-20-2011
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Thank you for the additional information Jeff. Your point about keeping a sharp knife in reach is well taken. Whether on a commercial fishing boat, whitewater, or sailboat, a knife that you can immediately put your hand on is an essential safety item. Lobstering, we would always wear an ankle sheath. In whitewater we wear quick release, double wavy-edged knives on our vests. (I use the same vest/knife sailing.) I often see sailors wearing those belt-pouched folding do-it-all knives which take WAY too long to get out of the case and unfold. They are nice for other stuff but would likely fold over inadvertently in an emergency and cut your hand. A knife seems to be a small item to fret about but the right kind can save your life.
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  #27  
Old 12-20-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff_H
It is important to be able to end for end jibe since it takes one extra person to dip-pole jibe.
If you have to dip pole (poles with specialized mast track fittings). Mark the mast with the location of the track so that the pole will clear the fore triangle.
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  #28  
Old 12-20-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jackdale View Post
If you have to dip pole (poles with specialized mast track fittings). Mark the mast with the location of the track so that the pole will clear the fore triangle.
... and mark the pole lift at the point where the 'drop' is enough to clear the headstay and not hit the lifelines/pulpit.
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  #29  
Old 12-21-2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Faster View Post
... and mark the pole lift at the point where the 'drop' is enough to clear the headstay and not hit the lifelines/pulpit.
+1

I knew there was something else.
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  #30  
Old 12-21-2011
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Meant to include this on my last post but forgot:

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