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Go Back   SailNet Community > Skills and Seamanship > Learning to Sail
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  #11  
Old 02-06-2012
Lake Superior Sailor's Avatar
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Well now the fun starts , Enjoy!!--Dale
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Lake Superior
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  #12  
Old 02-06-2012
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Don’t let it scare you away. do your own survey
Read up on the systems on your model and do it yourself. All the big hidden problems that cost a lot of money to fix are talked a bought in great detail in all the message boards on the internet.
Let me share with you what I did and how I went about it. Keep in mind “First and for most” if you are not sure about something, get a second opinion. The only thing you problem don’t have is a moister gauge to check the content of water in the core of the boat. Almost all the soft spots there can be found with a small trim hammer and a lot of pecking around the deck and hull. Tick tick, tick, = good. tick tick thud= not good.
Here is a step by step process. I will number them. Maybe you have already done this but here it is in a nut shell.

1) If it is in the water haul it out. Put it on the hard for at least 3 weeks. To dry the hull out. While it’s out you need to do several things
A) Check your “smile” the leading edge of the keel needs not to have a gap. Tighten your keel bolts and fair the gap
b) Now is the time to check all your thru-Hulls. You should have as few as 2 and as many as 6 a raw water pick-up for the engine, Cockpit drain port side, Cockpit / sing drain Starboard, Sewage drain, and transducers, speed, depth, water temp just name a few. Check them all for water tight and clean them.
c) If you have an inboard engine? You will need to check out the drive train. This will include prop clean?, Cotter pin nut and spacer?, Sacrificial anodes need to be replaced, Cutlass bearing replacement.
Cutless-Bearing Replacement
D) Stuffing box packing and replacement.
Servicing Your Stuffing Box by Don Casey
C) Engine alignment. The alignment is very important on a sailboat and needs to be checked on a regular basis.
2) Bottom job:
Now you are at this point you need to do a good bottom job. You need a deep cleaning and light wet sand depending on the condition. Get the yard boss to teach you a bought this. 2 coats good bottom paint. And use 2 colors. That you will be able to watch the bottom and be able to tell when the first coat is wearing off and how soon you will need to paint again. And here is a good do it yourself guide.
Applying Bottom Paint by Don Casey
3) Engine:
Get your power on. Every sailboat of any size needs Auxiliary power to get back to the dock after a great day on the water. If you have an inboard, learn its systems and service it now. Keep a record and do the services according to the manufactures recommendations. Don’t skimp here.
4) Electrical:
Battery power and a good charging system. Go thru the electrical system yourself. If it doesn’t work, take it out of line or fix it. Stuff that is hooked up and don’t work will draw down your power source. If you don’t need it don’t use it. Luxury on a sail boat in the way of power should be limited.
5) Plumbing systems:
Freshwater holding tanks, Poop holding tanks, Vents for the lines, hose conditions. Thru-hull’s topside check to make sure all is working properly.
6) Leaking cabin:
Check for rainwater leaks in the cabin. Deck to hull hardware should be checked for tightness here. Be careful not to over tighten. Most of the deck fittings are bedded in butyl tape and if over tightened it will all squeeze out and leak.
7) Deck softness:
Check with your little trim hammer, on top of the deck, around every screw or bolt screwed into your cabin top and top. “Remember” tick, tick, tick = good. tick tick thud= not good. Again look at Don Casey’s website or buy his book. If you have a soft deck it can cost a lot to fix. But, you can do it yourself.
Bedding Deck Hardware by Don Casey
8) Standing rigging:
Standing rigging is costly if in bad shape. Spend time here and again don’t skimp here your life may depend on it.
BoatUS BoatTECH Guides: Rigging
9) Running rigging: Running Rigging
Check the condition of all lines, looking for fraying and chafed spots. Replace lines as needed.
Lines stiff with salt can be hand washed with laundry detergent and thoroughly rinsed; fabric softener may make them easier on the hands.
Check that sheets are correctly run through fairleads and blocks.
If necessary, attach the jib sheets to the clew of the jib. (Using a soft shackle avoids the disadvantages of a heavy metal shackle.)
Check ends of halyards, sheets, and other lines; if fraying, whip the end.

10) Sails:
Sails Ideally sails were inspected, cleaned, and repaired before being stored for the winter; if not, do so now.
Bend on the mainsail and furling jib.
Clean and lubricate sail slugs when putting the mainsail in the mast track.
Install sail battens, checking the pockets in the sail for fraying or tears.

Money:
1) Bottom Job with 3 years of growth and paint= $750.00 To $1,200.00
2) Stuffing box with Zinc anode, cutlass bearing, = $250.00 to $ 850.00
Everything else, do it yourself.
Good luck and I am so glad for you on your new purchase. Nothing like the liberation a sailboat brings to ones sole. Let me know if I can help in any way.
See ya in the Breeze.
P.S. Here is a great site with a welth of information.
BoatUS.com: Don Casey Library

Last edited by ltgoshen; 02-06-2012 at 12:12 PM.
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