Originally Posted by coreywoodworking
I'd planned to line lockers with clear vinyl carpet runner material, thinking the little feet would allow any condensation to run into the bilge, and it would keep the rest of my stuff dry. I used it in my older Bristols so that my clothes and stuff wouldn't snag on the hand-laid (and sometimes spiny) fiberglas, and because old Bristols suffered hull-deck joint leaks. Any opinions?
Should work pretty well.
Where is the condensation the worst? On the overhead? Inside lockers? Against the hull?
Calibers (I have a Caliber 28) haven't any core in the hull and a plywood core in the deck, as the fbg is hand-laid. Am I particularly susceptible to cold or heat loss?
The worst condensation will probably be in the lockers against the hull. The deck is cored, so that should have slightly better insulation value than the plain GRP hull. Cored hulls are better insulated, since they're both thicker and most core materials are fairly decent insulators.
I thought I'd use an oil-filled heater just to maintain 45-50 degrees. I also own a Dickinson solid fuel heater, for when I'm there -- I'm a furnituremaker and generate a lot of scrap hardwood, and I'll add additional flue to the existing deck stack, up through the enclosure to outside air. I was also thinking about PVC pipes connected to the Dorades (fresh air to the fireplace) with a 90 elbow and 45 elbow pointing down, at the top, so snow couldn't come down the tubes. Seem logical for fresh air in the heaviest snows?
Be careful with the dorades. They can also let a lot of heat out, since they're at the top of the cabin and heat rises. Also, they can let exhaust from the heater in if the wind is right. It would probably also be a good idea to have the interior vent to the dorades extended to down lower, where they wouldn't act as a heat pump quite so effectively.
Another area where I need help is relative height of enclosure. I've made some terrific boat cover frames over the years, but I would really prefer to be able to stand up (or stoop slightly), on the side decks and foredeck, inside the enclosure. Would I be nuts to risk that much surface area to the wind --- 3' topsides and 5' enclosure sidewall? Only thing in my favor is that the winter boats are tucked into the inner docks, next to the Harborwalk seawall, and I make serious frames.
If the area is well-protected, a taller enclosure, may actually make more sense... it will shed snow better than a flatter one would.
One final question. I'd thought about anchoring the frame just two inches inside the perforated metal toerail, so that if I had to repair the enclosure during the winter, I'd have a place to stand. Snow wouldn't shed quite as easily, and ice might form, but if my cover went to the outside of the toerail and I had to make a repair....?
Why couldn't you repair it from the inside??? I wouldn't risk having ice and snow build up on the deck... it gets heavy awfully fast. Most New England snow is the heavy wet kind that is good for snowballs and snowmen, but is very heavy per volume, not the fluffy white powdery stuff you see in Colorado.