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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > MacGregor
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  #141  
Old 06-27-2009
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Well, then that is the stuff then ! Cool !
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  #142  
Old 06-27-2009
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Hi, first-time-poster here. Bought a V17 a month ago but haven't been able to sail it yet because I can't back the trailer far enough in the water to float the boat off. I made a 6' extension tongue and that gets it in far enough to get the back of the hull wet about 1-2" up. I'm too chicken to try disconnecting the trailer and backing it in with the winch. Guy at the ramp said it drops off at the end, and there's some 6 foot deep holes just beyond it. Horrible short/shallow ramps here on the lower Susquehanna. I could drive 90 minutes to the Chesapeake but would be upset if I drove there just to find the same situation. (maybe pay some dude with a jacked up F350 to back it in for me?)

I've enjoyed the posts/pictures here and assuming I can get the thing in the water this summer I'll get it all pretty over the winter. No pictures yet, but it's a white over yellow 73. Original cushions are pretty good. Trailer is ugly. Came with a 4 HP Yamaha. I'd like to get it setup for single-handed rigging and sailing in case I can't lure a friend or the wife into going with me.

As far as a name, the old name was silly so it's been gelcoated over. Wife said it looked like a cooked egg -- white over yolk yellow. "Over Easy" became the joke, but like all good pet/boat/car names, it stuck.
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  #143  
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Hi Sealover, welcome to Joe's thread that has become the place to post for the old Ventures. I like the name of your boat - you're right, good names are often serendipitous. We'll be interested to see your boat - pretty or not. I got my V-21 in October, too cold to sail so I spent the winter and did a full restoration. I built my trailer and built an 8 foot extension to go with it. Maybe you can come up with a system so you can sail local without going so far. Any chance they'd improve the ramp?
Flat.
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  #144  
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Hey Sealover, and welcome. On my trailer, I put really small wheels and tires on it so I could get the boat closer to the water farther up the ramp. I also lowered the bunks as low as possible. It has worked for me.
I think my wheels are 8 inch. They look like wheel barrow wheels but they are street legal. I got them at Northern Tool and Equipment. They were only $25 each with the tires already on them.
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  #145  
Old 06-28-2009
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Very nice job!

Hi Joe/everybody...

My first post here also... Joe, I just wanted to comment on what a great job you did with your 17 (and darned fast, too!) It took me close to three years to get my V22 back in the water.

Joe, how is your keel holding up? My '72 had three big plates of steel that were glassed over. It was dangerously heavy at about 450 lbs. I was dissatisfied with the final keel's shape... the slab-sided nature of the beast hurt my boat's pointing ability. I had thought about trying to do something similar with 450 lbs lead over a plywood form with LOTS of epoxy, but chickened out because of structural strength worries.

How does the new keel point? Have you noticed any cracks or leaks, or bending in the keel bolt? (I increased the size of my keel bolt from 1/2" to 5/8" grade 8, and it STLL wasn't strong enough.) Would you do anything different if you had to do it over?

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Brian Gilbert
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  #146  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hammerguy View Post
Hi Joe/everybody...

My first post here also... Joe, I just wanted to comment on what a great job you did with your 17 (and darned fast, too!) It took me close to three years to get my V22 back in the water.

Joe, how is your keel holding up? My '72 had three big plates of steel that were glassed over. It was dangerously heavy at about 450 lbs. I was dissatisfied with the final keel's shape... the slab-sided nature of the beast hurt my boat's pointing ability. I had thought about trying to do something similar with 450 lbs lead over a plywood form with LOTS of epoxy, but chickened out because of structural strength worries.

How does the new keel point? Have you noticed any cracks or leaks, or bending in the keel bolt? (I increased the size of my keel bolt from 1/2" to 5/8" grade 8, and it STLL wasn't strong enough.) Would you do anything different if you had to do it over?

Thanks
Brian Gilbert
Author, Fix It And Sail, The Complete Trailer Sailer
Well, I rebuilt my keel twice. The first time I kinda patched it up with polyester resin. That only lasted one season before it started cracking and leaking.
The second time a stripped it completely down to the steel bar and lead ball, and rebuilt the whole thing. I also epoxied bronze sleeves in the pivot holes because they had got walered out. I used epoxy this time. So far it works well. I guess you've looked at my pictures. All the wood was for on the new keel was to make the shape for the epoxy and fiberglass mat to form to.
My keel is only 275 lbs, so it's not quite as hard to deal with.
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  #147  
Old 06-29-2009
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V17 keel

Hi Joe:

Sounds like they re-designed the keel at the factory using lead, steel, and plywood... I thought that your keel was originally like mine, i.e., a few wraps of polyester and glass over some big steel plates... and that your new keel was something you designed yourself. Either way, you did a great job, and your photos are informative.

I figured out the same thing with polyester vs epoxy. I started to do mine with cheaper poly, thinking this was essentially new construction, and started one side of the keel. It shrank and cracked after 24 hours, so I popped it off and re-did the thing with epoxy. (sailing small- sailboat restoration and repair) Epoxy is not nearly as expensive as it used to be, at least from the smaller suppliers like Raka.

Keel construction and replacement is an interesting topic for me, since there are so many boats around with missing swing keels/daggerboards. And getting a factory replacement is often impossible, or more expensive than complete boats. It's a shame, really, 'cause these boats can be saved.

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BG
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  #148  
Old 06-29-2009
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Smaller wheels -- good idea. I'd like to keep the 14" rims and car tires that are on it for highway trips to the bay -- those little 8" things spin FAST at highway speeds! Pennsylvania is also known for it's wheel-swallowing pot holes. I doubt they'll fix the ramp -- it's owned by the electric company (who dammed the river back in the 30's, forming the lake) Currently, on nice weekends they hire a security guard or two to direct traffic at the ramp. Powerboaters complain about it too, but they can usually motor off of the ramp. And they all seem to have gigantic dually diesel crew cab pickup trucks (even for a little flat bottom aluminum fishing boat)

My midsize station wagon tows it nicely. It's just a little low to the ground.

I would like to lower the bunks. I think I can drop it only about 2" until the keel will hit the bump stop when it's in the full-up position.

2" drop, along with a longer extension might do it. The current extension was made out of round tube, and it sags in the middle (which raises the back of the trailer slightly) I'll make the new one out of square tube.

How did you lower your bunks?

I think painting my bottom might help too. It's not smooth at all -- no chance of pushing it off the trailer if it was close, and I'd hate to drag it back up on if floating on wasn't an option. (not to mention the sailing benefits of a smooth bottom)

Sorry for the long ranting message. I'm enjoying my morning coffee on an empty stomach.
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  #149  
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Keels -- My keel is just a gigantic iron casting. Sort of looks like a big fishing sinker that was squashed flat a bit. On the long list of things to do is to sand it smooth and paint it. (sounds like epoxy may be the way to go)

What was original equipment?
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  #150  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sealover View Post
Keels -- My keel is just a gigantic iron casting. Sort of looks like a big fishing sinker that was squashed flat a bit. On the long list of things to do is to sand it smooth and paint it. (sounds like epoxy may be the way to go)

What was original equipment?
I'm not sure if they changed the keel during the production years or not. My keel is the original, and if you look at the owners manual, it shows the lead ball at the base. I would think if you don't have a lead ball, yours has been changed. It might be a good idea to add some weight if it's just a steel bar.
It should be atleast 250lbs to keep the boat upright properly.
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