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Venture 17 restoration

83K views 299 replies 30 participants last post by  NickMo 
#1 ·
Here are some of the pictures of my restoration project ( more like resurection), of my Venture 17 a couple of years ago.

link:IMGP0610 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

You can click the icon for Venture resto if you don't want to see all my other stuff.
 
#117 ·
Well, I kinda put it on hiatus for a bit... After I got the hardware, it took a while to get the certified letter back for getting the boat registered...

However, I calculated my forestay should be about 15'7", so I'm taking an old side stay from my Hobie down to the shop to have it shortened into the forestay today. The biggest road block now is money for the sails. Once I have that, I'll start moving forward again, but for now I'm spending quite a bit of time sailing my hobie and learning how to sail better. However, yesterday I moved it to a storage unit around the corner from my house, so I'll be able to work on it easier. I'll let you know when something else happens.

Is there somewhere I can research what the length and sizes of all the sheets and halyards and lines are on the V17? Because, I'm going to need all of them replaced, I think... It appears that all hardware is original, and in original locations. There are no other holes in the deck anywhere that I can see even from the bottom looking up at the deck.
 
#119 ·
I just ordered sheets and halyards for my V17 from Sailboatowners.com. Main Halyard was 62ft of 1/4in, Main sheet was 30 ft of 3/8in, Jib halyard was 53ft of 1/4in and Jib sheet was 52ft of 3/8in line. Grand total of $175. Keep working hard. I am in the process right now of building a rudder. Stay with it and let me know how your boat is going. I would like to hear how you are going about things so we can compare.
 
#121 ·
Sounds like a little bit of overkill on some of those. Of coarse too long is better than too short, but too much excess can get in the way. I remember getting 50 ft for my main halyard and it's a little longer than necessary.
Also, if you check West Marine for close out line you can get some real deals sometimes. I think all of my new running rigging was under $75 and it's all good stuff.
 
#122 ·
You're right. I think I got taken as a first timer. It happens...but man it just looks sooo good. I did go a little overkill so that the lines would go aft plus the screwups that I plan on making when I try some splicing myself. Haha. Looks like I will end up getting the wiring done in my boat during July 4th weekend. Gonna take lots of pics and give updates. Any helpful suggestions? My stepdad is a master electrician so I think it will go smoothly. Hey Joe, what do you think of progressive epoxy polymers? I saw a post that talked about it so I checked it out. I only ask because shipping is a fortune from NH to TX and I want to get something that is worth it.
 
#124 ·
Here's a good info page on epoxies. I don't know about that brand , as I haven't used it, but shipping is usually high on epoxies because of the chemical hazards. I have just used West System because I can get it local and pay no shipping. It seems to work well for what I've done.
Comparing Marine Epoxies - What to Look For
 
#123 ·
wow, those halyard lengths seem really long... The mast is only about 20ish feet... So it would make sense for the halyards to only be double that, up and over, no need for 20 feet of excess in my mind... Do you know something about rigging this boat that I don't? Or are you using a catamaran mod? I have a hobie cat, and that main halyard is about 55', give or take, but it has a 27' mast... Next time you rig up your boat, could you take a pic of the lines before and after they're run so I can get an idea of what's going on?
 
#125 ·
I looked up blue water yachts online catalog for line for the V17, and it sells the same line for every boat... So I don't trust the lengths are correct for the V17 specific, but they had these measurements listed:

Main Halyard 5/16" line 66' long (way too long for this mast IMHO)
Jib Halyard 5/16" line 50' long (again, too long too much left over IMHO)
Main Sheet 5/16" line 45' long ( I wouldn't know because I haven't rigged my
boat, so I don't know what all is involved with running the line)
Jib Sheet 5/16" line 46' long ( again, I dunno, but if everything is running back to the cockpit, could be right, I suppose)

This brings up my next question, what is the block system for the main sheet/boom? My hobie runs a 6:1 and a traveler car. I don't even know what to expect the V17 to look like when rigged. Joe, I'll go back and look at your pics, but does someone have a close up of their main sheet rigged up?

Anyway, I think I'm going to use 1/4" line on the halyards and either 5/16" or 3/8" on the sheets. My catch phrase is "wingit" so, I suppose that will apply here as well.. ;) I have an old halyard from the hobie that was damaged, but I'll be able to cut it down for this.

On the jib, is there a cable that runs along the inside of the luff? Or is it just all cloth or rope? Also, to raise the jib, is the only block involved the single block on the tang? Again, my hobie has a 4:1 block system, don't know what the differences are. However, the more I learn about Hobie sailing and rigging, I'm still learning about sailing as a whole, so I'm a lot more informed now than I was a few months ago just from that experience.

Thanks, more later
 
#126 ·
I looked up blue water yachts online catalog for line for the V17, and it sells the same line for every boat... So I don't trust the lengths are correct for the V17 specific, but they had these measurements listed:

Main Halyard 5/16" line 66' long (way too long for this mast IMHO)
Jib Halyard 5/16" line 50' long (again, too long too much left over IMHO)
Main Sheet 5/16" line 45' long ( I wouldn't know because I haven't rigged my
boat, so I don't know what all is involved with running the line)
Jib Sheet 5/16" line 46' long ( again, I dunno, but if everything is running back to the cockpit, could be right, I suppose)

This brings up my next question, what is the block system for the main sheet/boom? My hobie runs a 6:1 and a traveler car. I don't even know what to expect the V17 to look like when rigged. Joe, I'll go back and look at your pics, but does someone have a close up of their main sheet rigged up?

Anyway, I think I'm going to use 1/4" line on the halyards and either 5/16" or 3/8" on the sheets. My catch phrase is "wingit" so, I suppose that will apply here as well.. ;) I have an old halyard from the hobie that was damaged, but I'll be able to cut it down for this.

On the jib, is there a cable that runs along the inside of the luff? Or is it just all cloth or rope? Also, to raise the jib, is the only block involved the single block on the tang? Again, my hobie has a 4:1 block system, don't know what the differences are. However, the more I learn about Hobie sailing and rigging, I'm still learning about sailing as a whole, so I'm a lot more informed now than I was a few months ago just from that experience.

Thanks, more later
OK, the mast is 20 ft. So your assumption of 40-ish ft for the main halyard is correct. The main sheet on my boat is 28ft. I would go with 30 as mine is right at the end when its let out all the way. The jib sheets, 1 starboard, and 1 port, are 18ft each. They are plenty long for even a 90 percent jib. Remember, your boat in total is only 17ft, 4 inches.
I will take a picture tomorrow, or this weekend of how the main sheet is rigged for you. I remember that was the hard part for me to figure out. I also didn't have much to go on at first. There were a few more sources on the net 2 years ago though, that are gone now. Even then, it took some searching though.
Your jib should have a cable sewn into the leech and there is just the one pulley up top that you pull the halyard through to raise it.
I just had a thought.
I'm gonna make you a video of my rigging set up. I can now upload video to my Flickr account, and that would be the best way for you to see the way it's set up. I will do that , maybe even this evening if the rain is gone for awhile.
 
#127 ·
That is an awesome idea!!! thanks Joe. I think that would help quite a few of us, those who have found this forum, and those who will eventually be doing what we're doing now! I look forward to it. My Hobie is only 16' long, so a bit shorter, but the rigging for the jib halyard, sheet, and main sheet are a little more complex, due to the multi block systems.

I've seen on a few pics a wire from the top of the mast down to the boom? Is that necessary? I know I don't have one, and it seems like you wouldn't be able to flatten out your sails as much with that... Again, hobie experience, not monohull...yet.... ;)
 
#128 ·
That is an awesome idea!!! thanks Joe. I think that would help quite a few of us, those who have found this forum, and those who will eventually be doing what we're doing now! I look forward to it. My Hobie is only 16' long, so a bit shorter, but the rigging for the jib halyard, sheet, and main sheet are a little more complex, due to the multi block systems.

I've seen on a few pics a wire from the top of the mast down to the boom? Is that necessary? I know I don't have one, and it seems like you wouldn't be able to flatten out your sails as much with that... Again, hobie experience, not monohull...yet.... ;)
The rain never quit lastnight. I should be able to make some videos this evening.
The wire you describe would be a topping lift. It's just there to hold the boom up when your mainsail isn't raised. You can use your main halyard to accomplish that on your boat. I put a boom kicker on mine for that purpose.
 
#131 · (Edited)
I just changed the link. I have organized them now in order. You just click on the previous post, on the V17 that's highlighted.
Sorry for the poor video quality, my camera isn't the greatest with video. Also, if you need to see better detail on the photos, click above the picture where it says, all sizes.
 
#132 ·
WOW!!!!! That was awesome! Thank you so much. I can't even begin to tell you how many questions you just answered, as well as questions I hadn't even thought of yet!!!! From the vids, it looks like my main sheet block system is all there, so that's good.

Did you add the auto-cleats on the mast for the halyards? I'm giong to assume yes, but where did you get that idea? Makes sense now that i've seen it, but I wouldn't have thought of that, I just would have tied them off!

Your boat looks great, btw! It terrified me to see you raise the mast by yourself, though! I was sure it was going to fall, but you handled it great! to be honest, I've always done it the other way, raising from the stern with the side stays already attached, then I just my wife attach the forestay and we're done. Again, that's how Hobie teaches, and that's all I know so far... lol.

Great Great Great Job!!!
 
#133 · (Edited)
Thanks Andrew.
I kept having the jibsheets snag on the mast, and I also wanted a quick way to drop the sails if I needed to. That's when I got the idea for the cam cleats on the mast. They work great, it's quick and easy, and no more snags.
Here's another picture that I downloaded several years ago, that helped me to see how things were set up. I don't know who's boat it was, but it's a nice one.
Flickr Photo Download: Nice Venture-17

Oh, and my mast won't lay backwards. The companion way cover is in the way. The roller on the front of my trailer is very helpful with that.
 
#137 ·
Yeah, I rigged a boomvang because when you are on a broad reach the boom raises up quite a bit. The vang makes a big difference. I don't always go to the trouble to hook it up if I don't plan on being out all day.
I got the vang block from West Marine. It's pretty easy to rig one up if you just look at how it's done
West Marine: West Advisor
 
#138 ·
Good to see you guys are making progress!

When it comes to ordering heavy stuff check out discount marine supply on the web.

Discount Marine Supplies offers quality boating supplies & marine supplies for boaters and sailboat owners.

They have $6 shipping - no exceptions! I ordered an anchor, two gallons of west epoxy resin, two quarts of west hardener, fiberglass fabric, blocks, a gas can, and a bunch of little crap...it was enough to fill the back of my ranger all for $6 shipping.

Good luck. Flat.
 
#139 ·
When it comes to ordering heavy stuff check out discount marine supply on the web.

Discount Marine Supplies offers quality boating supplies & marine supplies for boaters and sailboat owners.

They have $6 shipping - no exceptions! I ordered an anchor, two gallons of west epoxy resin, two quarts of west hardener, fiberglass fabric, blocks, a gas can, and a bunch of little crap...it was enough to fill the back of my ranger all for $6 shipping.

Good luck. Flat.
I'll have to check into that next time I need something. $6 shipping for epoxy is a good deal ! ( unless they price it higher to cover shipping )
 
#142 ·
Hi, first-time-poster here. Bought a V17 a month ago but haven't been able to sail it yet because I can't back the trailer far enough in the water to float the boat off. I made a 6' extension tongue and that gets it in far enough to get the back of the hull wet about 1-2" up. I'm too chicken to try disconnecting the trailer and backing it in with the winch. Guy at the ramp said it drops off at the end, and there's some 6 foot deep holes just beyond it. Horrible short/shallow ramps here on the lower Susquehanna. I could drive 90 minutes to the Chesapeake but would be upset if I drove there just to find the same situation. (maybe pay some dude with a jacked up F350 to back it in for me?)

I've enjoyed the posts/pictures here and assuming I can get the thing in the water this summer I'll get it all pretty over the winter. No pictures yet, but it's a white over yellow 73. Original cushions are pretty good. Trailer is ugly. Came with a 4 HP Yamaha. I'd like to get it setup for single-handed rigging and sailing in case I can't lure a friend or the wife into going with me.

As far as a name, the old name was silly so it's been gelcoated over. Wife said it looked like a cooked egg -- white over yolk yellow. "Over Easy" became the joke, but like all good pet/boat/car names, it stuck.
 
#143 ·
Hi Sealover, welcome to Joe's thread that has become the place to post for the old Ventures. I like the name of your boat - you're right, good names are often serendipitous. We'll be interested to see your boat - pretty or not. I got my V-21 in October, too cold to sail so I spent the winter and did a full restoration. I built my trailer and built an 8 foot extension to go with it. Maybe you can come up with a system so you can sail local without going so far. Any chance they'd improve the ramp?
Flat.
 
#144 ·
Hey Sealover, and welcome. On my trailer, I put really small wheels and tires on it so I could get the boat closer to the water farther up the ramp. I also lowered the bunks as low as possible. It has worked for me.
I think my wheels are 8 inch. They look like wheel barrow wheels but they are street legal. I got them at Northern Tool and Equipment. They were only $25 each with the tires already on them.
 
#145 ·
Very nice job!

Hi Joe/everybody...

My first post here also... Joe, I just wanted to comment on what a great job you did with your 17 (and darned fast, too!) It took me close to three years to get my V22 back in the water.

Joe, how is your keel holding up? My '72 had three big plates of steel that were glassed over. It was dangerously heavy at about 450 lbs. I was dissatisfied with the final keel's shape... the slab-sided nature of the beast hurt my boat's pointing ability. I had thought about trying to do something similar with 450 lbs lead over a plywood form with LOTS of epoxy, but chickened out because of structural strength worries.

How does the new keel point? Have you noticed any cracks or leaks, or bending in the keel bolt? (I increased the size of my keel bolt from 1/2" to 5/8" grade 8, and it STLL wasn't strong enough.) Would you do anything different if you had to do it over?

Thanks
Brian Gilbert
Author, Fix It And Sail, The Complete Trailer Sailer
 
#146 ·
Hi Joe/everybody...

My first post here also... Joe, I just wanted to comment on what a great job you did with your 17 (and darned fast, too!) It took me close to three years to get my V22 back in the water.

Joe, how is your keel holding up? My '72 had three big plates of steel that were glassed over. It was dangerously heavy at about 450 lbs. I was dissatisfied with the final keel's shape... the slab-sided nature of the beast hurt my boat's pointing ability. I had thought about trying to do something similar with 450 lbs lead over a plywood form with LOTS of epoxy, but chickened out because of structural strength worries.

How does the new keel point? Have you noticed any cracks or leaks, or bending in the keel bolt? (I increased the size of my keel bolt from 1/2" to 5/8" grade 8, and it STLL wasn't strong enough.) Would you do anything different if you had to do it over?

Thanks
Brian Gilbert
Author, Fix It And Sail, The Complete Trailer Sailer
Well, I rebuilt my keel twice. The first time I kinda patched it up with polyester resin. That only lasted one season before it started cracking and leaking.
The second time a stripped it completely down to the steel bar and lead ball, and rebuilt the whole thing. I also epoxied bronze sleeves in the pivot holes because they had got walered out. I used epoxy this time. So far it works well. I guess you've looked at my pictures. All the wood was for on the new keel was to make the shape for the epoxy and fiberglass mat to form to.
My keel is only 275 lbs, so it's not quite as hard to deal with.
 
#147 ·
V17 keel

Hi Joe:

Sounds like they re-designed the keel at the factory using lead, steel, and plywood... I thought that your keel was originally like mine, i.e., a few wraps of polyester and glass over some big steel plates... and that your new keel was something you designed yourself. Either way, you did a great job, and your photos are informative.

I figured out the same thing with polyester vs epoxy. I started to do mine with cheaper poly, thinking this was essentially new construction, and started one side of the keel. It shrank and cracked after 24 hours, so I popped it off and re-did the thing with epoxy. (sailing small- sailboat restoration and repair) Epoxy is not nearly as expensive as it used to be, at least from the smaller suppliers like Raka.

Keel construction and replacement is an interesting topic for me, since there are so many boats around with missing swing keels/daggerboards. And getting a factory replacement is often impossible, or more expensive than complete boats. It's a shame, really, 'cause these boats can be saved.

Thanks
BG
Brian Gilbert
Author, Fix It And Sail, The Complete Trailer Sailer
 
#151 ·
Hi Joe:

Sounds like they re-designed the keel at the factory using lead, steel, and plywood... I thought that your keel was originally like mine, i.e., a few wraps of polyester and glass over some big steel plates... and that your new keel was something you designed yourself. Either way, you did a great job, and your photos are informative.

I figured out the same thing with polyester vs epoxy. I started to do mine with cheaper poly, thinking this was essentially new construction, and started one side of the keel. It shrank and cracked after 24 hours, so I popped it off and re-did the thing with epoxy. (sailing small- sailboat restoration and repair) Epoxy is not nearly as expensive as it used to be, at least from the smaller suppliers like Raka.

Keel construction and replacement is an interesting topic for me, since there are so many boats around with missing swing keels/daggerboards. And getting a factory replacement is often impossible, or more expensive than complete boats. It's a shame, really, 'cause these boats can be saved.

Thanks
BG
Brian Gilbert
Author, Fix It And Sail, The Complete Trailer Sailer
Hey Brian,
I just did a little research to make sure you were who I thought you were. Yes ! That's really cool. I got a lot of inspiration from you. I heard you on Furled Sails a few years back, or whenever it was. I listened to that podcast several times, and got your book too. I felt like I had pretty much the same desease as you. That's ok though, I don't really want to be cured from this desease.:laugher
 
#148 ·
Smaller wheels -- good idea. I'd like to keep the 14" rims and car tires that are on it for highway trips to the bay -- those little 8" things spin FAST at highway speeds! Pennsylvania is also known for it's wheel-swallowing pot holes. I doubt they'll fix the ramp -- it's owned by the electric company (who dammed the river back in the 30's, forming the lake) Currently, on nice weekends they hire a security guard or two to direct traffic at the ramp. Powerboaters complain about it too, but they can usually motor off of the ramp. And they all seem to have gigantic dually diesel crew cab pickup trucks (even for a little flat bottom aluminum fishing boat)

My midsize station wagon tows it nicely. It's just a little low to the ground.

I would like to lower the bunks. I think I can drop it only about 2" until the keel will hit the bump stop when it's in the full-up position.

2" drop, along with a longer extension might do it. The current extension was made out of round tube, and it sags in the middle (which raises the back of the trailer slightly) I'll make the new one out of square tube.

How did you lower your bunks?

I think painting my bottom might help too. It's not smooth at all -- no chance of pushing it off the trailer if it was close, and I'd hate to drag it back up on if floating on wasn't an option. (not to mention the sailing benefits of a smooth bottom)

Sorry for the long ranting message. I'm enjoying my morning coffee on an empty stomach.
 
#149 ·
Keels -- My keel is just a gigantic iron casting. Sort of looks like a big fishing sinker that was squashed flat a bit. On the long list of things to do is to sand it smooth and paint it. (sounds like epoxy may be the way to go)

What was original equipment?
 
#150 ·
Keels -- My keel is just a gigantic iron casting. Sort of looks like a big fishing sinker that was squashed flat a bit. On the long list of things to do is to sand it smooth and paint it. (sounds like epoxy may be the way to go)

What was original equipment?
I'm not sure if they changed the keel during the production years or not. My keel is the original, and if you look at the owners manual, it shows the lead ball at the base. I would think if you don't have a lead ball, yours has been changed. It might be a good idea to add some weight if it's just a steel bar.
It should be atleast 250lbs to keep the boat upright properly.
 
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