Anchor Windlasses

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Electric Windlass Manual Windlass

Anchor windlasses reduce the effort required to raise and lower heavy ground tackle by adding mechanical advantage or electrical power. They can be broken into two classes: vertical or horizontal and can have a gypsy for chain only, a drum for rope only, or a gypsy/drum combination. There are three types of drive mechanisms; manual, electric, and hydraulic. Manual and electric windlasses are found on most boats, while hydraulic units are usually reserved for large yachts. Most windlasses now handle rope or chain, automatically stowing the rode below and eliminating the need to handle highly tensioned gear.

SHAFT ORIENTATION

• Vertical windlasses resemble sheet winches and take up less deck space than horizontal units. The gypsy and drum are stacked on top of a baseplate mounted to the deck. Electric verticals usually have the motor and gearbox below-deck. A vertical windlass offers the ability to warp from any direction on the rope drum. One limitation of the vertical windlass is that the depth of the locker may prevent self-storing and the rode length may have to be shortened for it to pay properly into the locker. Boats with high bulwarks, or where the anchor rode comes in significantly higher or lower than the center of the gypsy, may not be able to use a vertical. A manual vertical windlass usually operates with a winch handle, and a manual backup is a must if an electric windlass is installed.

Vertical Windlass

• Horizontal windlasses are all above decks with the gypsy and drum turning on a horizontal drive shaft. Horizontals are typically installed where anchor rode/chain space is limited and deck space is not restricted. The rode must lead from the roller to center of the gypsy or drum.

Horizontal Windlass

GYPSIES AND DRUMS

• Rope only windlasses include:
  • A rope capstan, similar to a non-self-tailing winch. The rope is wrapped around a drum and an electric motor is used to haul the anchor rode or dock line, leaving a pile of rope on the deck that must then be stowed.
  • A rope-only self-tailing windlass in which the rope is wrapped around an internal pulley and is then deposited into the rode locker below. Limitations include restriction to select sizes of 3-strand rope and the use of a length of chain that does not exceed the distance from the anchor roller to the windlass.
• All-chain windlasses are self-stowing and self-stripping. The chain is engaged in the pockets of the gypsy and the weight of the chain falls unassisted into the locker allowing unassisted retrievals. Gypsies must always be sized to match the chain exactly.
• Rope/chain gypsies use a chain pocket and a V-shaped groove to retrieve either type of rode. Special splices are required for the rope-to-chain join to pass over the gypsy correctly.

TIPS

• Electric windlasses have a higher purchase price, as well as installation and maintenance costs than do manual windlasses.
• Most electric windlasses may be wired to power the rode up or down and may have two or more control switches.
• Both manual and electric windlasses, with both gypsy and drum or with gypsy only, have two size ratings labeled as "working load" and "pull." During anchor recovery the windlass passes through five phases:

1. Beginning recovery
2. Recovery under way
3. Breakout
4. Retrieval
5. Stowage.

• The "recovery under way" phase is the longest, but does not require maximum pull, especially if the forward motion of the boat is used to aid the windlass. The breakout phase requires maximum loads on the windlass, though for short amounts of time. The retrieval phase sees decreasing load and time.
• Most manufacturers supply sizing recommendations based on length overall in their catalogs, but you should view these as guidelines only. Other factors for sizing your windlass include whether you plan weekend cruising or long distance voyaging, keel type, windage, and displacement.
• A basic formula used by Maxwell is "the pulling capacity of the windlass should not be less than three times the total weight of the ground tackle". Thus, a boat with 100 feet of 3/8 inch BBB chain (170 pounds) and a 45 CQR has a total ground tackle weight of 215 pounds, and would require a minimum of 650 pounds of pulling power.
• Electric windlasses have a higher purchase price, as well as installation and maintenance costs than do manual windlasses.
• Most electric windlasses may be wired to power the rode up or down, and may have two or more control switches.
• Depending on which controls are desired, initial purchases may include wire, circuit breaker, solenoids, foot switches and/or rocker switch.
• Different manufacturers include different parts in the price of the windlass. If the battery system is marginal, additional battery power will be required to support the windlass.

INSTALLATION

Toolbox:

• Manual windlass installation can be accomplished by the average mechanically and skilled person with minimal tools:
  • Hole saw
  • Drill and bit
  • Wrenches
  • Nuts and bolts, if not included
  • Sealant
  • Long-term maintenance is limited to occasional lubing of gears.
• Electric/Hydraulic windlass installations require more mechanical and electrical aptitude and a complete toolbox:
  • Wire strippers
  • Wire terminals to match the wire size
  • Electrical tape
  • Volt/ohm meter
  • Bolts and nuts
  • Hole saw
  • Wrenches
  • Drill and bits
  • Sealant
  • If adding a battery, additional cable will be required and isolators may be desirable.

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