by Jamie Garnier
The sheltered cove came into view as we rounded the high brown bluff marking the eastern entrance to yet another tropical paradise. A hint of burning herb lingered in the air as Hobbit (a 25' Bayfield pocket cruiser) drifted deeper into the calm clear shallows. The fragrance of a local charcoal cook fire filled the air. Our view of the native village was a sight to behold. It was spread along the mile-wide beach among clusters of lush vegetation. "Just another day in paradise" we both blurted out at the same time. Except this time our anchorage seemed surreal.
We anchored out far enough to maintain a panoramic view of this primitive setting. Soon a small child no more than six pushed out from shore in a small homemade raft, wetting his curiosity as he drifted closer. He watched us from a safe distance. Villagers stopped their daily routine to squat down in the shade to contemplate life.
We sat in a state of bliss, our Jimmy Buffet tape playing from below, a drink in hand, taking in the beauty of this 3rd world country.
Coastal cruising along the mountainous north coast of Haiti was somewhat of a culture shock. This was a contrast from our six-month cruise through the Bahaman low-lying cays. Gone were the other cruising boats that dotted those clear waters. We were immersed in a third world country with ever-present poverty ashore. We had been alone since leaving Cap Haitian the week before. Our destination was Jamaica where my father was to meet us in 2 weeks.
The curious boy made his way back to the village. We decided to follow in our dingy. A crowd gathered near us on the beach as our oars were shipped. They motioned us to follow to a mud covered straw hut and enjoyed some fresh bread, warm from an earthen oven. An inventive boy played a tune on his homemade guitar made from fishing line, a stick and an old metal gas can.
We enjoyed our visit, and took a few pictures. A hush came over them and their eyes opened wide as the Polaroid picture taken of the group transformed from a seemingly blank card to a stunning photo. It's been 25 years since that 3 year voyage from Canada and the picture has no doubt faded, but that moment of visiting a primitive village in a third world country is still fresh in my mind.
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