If there's a more magical cruising destination than Maine, Sue and I have yet to find it. The Bahamas, the Caribbean, and even Bermuda are all beautiful, but just seem to pale slightly when compared with the Maine experience. The cruiser in Maine is stimulated and rewarded with seemingly every turn of the compass.
Where else can you be tantalized by seals playing on the rocks, awed by whales surfacing breathtakingly close to your boat, and welcomed to a remote island 10 miles offshore by a group of fat-beaked, short bodied, rare Puffins flying around your boat? The clear clean water is the deepest of blues and the ominous, yet magnificent, rocky points are frequently bejeweled with uniquely different lighthouses that not only keep you safe, but are lovely to behold.
Situated in the extreme northeast of the United States, Maine boasts a coastline of more nooks and crannies that you could possibly visit in a lifetime. Although the coast measures only 250 miles in a straight line, the actual length of this extremely intricate shore is over 3,500 miles. Add to this thousands of remote islands and you'll soon see why you could cruise these grounds for decades and never have to return to the same anchorage twice.
The traditional cruising season in Maine begins early in July and continues through the Labor Day weekend. For heartier cruisers and those with good onboard heaters, the season can be extended by a month on either side, but not much more than this due to cold and inclement weather.
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Maine offers the cruiser many postcard perfect towns and harbors that can accommodate scores of different cruising itineraries. If you desire bustling and popular waterfront towns and lots of shops, you'll need to look no further than destinations such as Bar Harbor, Camden, and of course Freeport, the home of LL Bean. Be forewarned though that you'll be sharing these towns with thousands of landlubber tourists from around the world. Some cruisers may prefer the precious small towns like Blue Hill, Port Clyde, and Rockland and the charming small city of Portland, each unique in being refreshingly low key, less crowded and offering an abundance of cultural activities. Lastly, there are the thousands of coves where there is virtually no one around and you can simply become one with nature.
The majority of cruisers in Maine spend the bulk of their time in the regions of Penobscot Bay, Blue Hill Bay, and Frenchman's Bay. Here you have only to sail a few miles each day to see a completely different and interesting harbor or town. The cruising grounds are wonderfully sheltered with a huge variety of navigable routes that let you magically weave your way through the rocky shoreline and abundant islands. Amidst these waters is Acadia National Park, the second most visited national park in the US. Cruisers have a special opportunity to view the park uniquely from the water. A sail down Somes Sound, the only natural fiord in the contiguous United States takes you through the heart of this vast 33,000 acre treasure—preserved forever. If you find it's time to stretch out your sea legs you might want to take the opportunity to hike one of the many trails in the park.
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If you'd like to experience a really unique part of Maine, we would encourage you to continue on past Acadia National Park and enter the area of the coast referred to as “Down East." You'll leave behind in your wake most of the towns and the majority of other boats. The weather gets a little cooler and the tide swings a little higher.
Cruising “Down East” Maine presents you with such magnificence that you will likely treasure the memories of your time spent there for the rest of your life. The anchorage at Mistake Island is just one of these. Tucked away just a hundred feet or so from the open sea, a substantial granite shoreline, made smooth by the years of oncoming waves, protects you completely. Nothing quite prepares you for the experience of sitting in your cockpit after dark watching the beacon from the lighthouse and listening to the sound of the powerful ocean crashing violently into the granite shoreline—all just a few boat lengths away. The next morning while eating blueberry pancakes, you'll be treated to seals swimming in the anchorage and playing on the rocks while bald eagles soar overhead.
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When the talk turns to cruising Maine, many sailors initially express concern. Rough seas, a vast rocky shoreline and excessive tidal swings pose reason for doubt. This was certainly the case with Sue and me. However, what we discovered upon our arrival in Maine were some of the most protected and sheltered cruising grounds anywhere. During the summer months, the weather generally cooperates, resulting in calm seas and mild conditions. Navigationally, the presence of fog is the greatest concern. To the unprepared, sailing in fog can be a terrifying experience, but with a little preparation, it's not so difficult. If properly equipped with radar, GPS, the ability to read charts correctly, and a good foghorn, this experience can be quite thrilling and rewarding. (See our previous article entitled
Sailing in Fog.)
As for the rocky shoreline, you'll find that the waters of Maine are reasonably well marked with navigational aids and numerous safe routes are explained in great detail in local cruising guides. With a good guidebook, detailed charts, and a keen eye, navigating these waters is not so daunting.
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| " For anchoring, it's important to have good ground tackle and lots of it." |
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The farther north and east you travel along the Maine coast, the greater the tidal swings become. In the southern city of Portland, expect tidal swings of about nine feet. Once you get up near the Canadian border, this increases to close to 20 feet. For anchoring, it's important to have good ground tackle and lots of it. There are very few marinas or docks in Maine. In the popular cruising areas, it is possible to pick up moorings in most places, but always be prepared to anchor if necessary.
The abundance of floats from lobster pots presents perhaps the biggest annoyance to cruising Maine. Thousands of colorful bobbing floats strew the waters and are worked daily by the local lobstermen. Sometimes they are so close together you are literally weaving your way into a harbor. Boats with underbodies and props that don't snag the lines are a definite plus when trying to navigate these areas. After tasting a few of the freshest lobsters you'll ever eat though, you'll feel more kindly toward the lobsterman and more tolerant toward his tools of the trade.
Sue and I were at first disappointed when we found out that only licensed lobster fishermen were allowed to catch the lobsters, but soon got over our disenchantment when a local cruising couple put us on to collecting our own mussels from the shoreline. What a scrumptious meal they make steamed in a broth of olive oil, onions, loads of garlic and wine coupled with homemade bread straight from the oven!
As if the splendor of Maine's shoreline, the charisma of her towns, and the spectacular array of wildlife were not enough to entice you, Sue and I relish yet one more unique aspect of cruising these waters. Throughout the summer we were mesmerized by the constant visual beauty of graceful old wooden yachts and schooners and we were equally surprised by the almost total void of recreational powerboats. Each time we thought we had just seen the most gorgeous sailboat in the world, we would enter another harbor and find its rival. Schooner festivals are celebrated annually in several towns throughout the summer and are definitely worth going out of your way to take one in. Crews dressed in appropriate early day sailor garb softly sing sea shanties as they raise the sails. Believe me, this will shiver your timbers to see such a rich part of nautical history come to life.
An absolute must for anyone planning to cruise Maine is the guidebook A Cruising Guide to the Maine Coast by Hank and Jan Taft and Curtis Rindlaub. This is by far the very best cruising book we have ever seen written. It will not only help you determine which parts of the very large Maine coast will interest you the most, but will also enlighten you on the local wildlife and history of each area. Absolutely everything you need to know about cruising Maine is covered in this book.
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