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01-11-2004
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Contributing Authors
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Join Date: Jan 2000
Posts: 129
Rep Power: 13
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Charles Taylor and Short-Wave Radios
It was an inky, dark night and we were blasting in into an abyss on a deep reach. It was one of those nights that required equal parts of trust and fatalism as our speed often soared into the double digits while visibility occasionally plunged into the double digits. I was on watch, thankful for a little time alone from my training passage crew and marveling that the autopilot was able to cope with the good-sized following seas. You’d almost think I’d had a Catholic upbringing: I still feel a weird mixture of guilt and joy whenever the autopilot is doing its job without complaint. Maybe I was just praying that it would continue to work for the next three hours after which I could escape below and hide under the blanket in my warm, dry bunk. Confident that the mechanical helmsman was firmly in control and that we weren’t about to get soaked by a breaking wave, I reached down into the inside pocket of my foul-weather jacket and pulled out my stash. I confess I’m a junkie—a news junkie. I was armed and ready for watch with my trusty Grunding Yacht Boy 400 short-wave radio and a set of headphones. Although we were just across the Gulf Stream, somewhere near the rhumb line between Newport and Bermuda, the entire world was just the push of a button away. | | I tuned in the preprogrammed BBC channel on the 9 MHz/31 meter band. The lovely English voice of the announcer on the World Service came in loud and clear. I was falling in love with her soft accent as she noted calmly that rebel forces in Monrovia had taken control of the city and Liberia’s rouge President, Charles Taylor had fled the country and taken up exile in Nigeria. What did she say? Not Charles Taylor; it couldn’t be, Charles Taylor? Not him again. I had an immediate flashback. I was aboard Isabel, an Ocean 71 sloop, and I was once again being rocked in a North Atlantic gale. The delivery of Isabel was my most arduous voyage. With a crew of two I left Newport, RI, bound for Stockholm, Sweden. Nothing all that unusual in that, right? Well, it was a bit unusual that we cleared Newport Harbor on January 25 and had to be in Stockholm before March 1! What can I say? I needed the money and knew that a midwinter crossing of the North Atlantic would add a few stories to my repertoire. I wasn’t disappointed given that Neptune was in rare form throughout, serving up a brutal passage. One night, huddled in the cockpit, I marveled as the autopilot steered the 25-ton boat in huge following seas. What is that cliché about those who don’t learn from history being doomed to repeat it? Anyway, I was spending my watch with the BBC. It was 1990 and Charles Taylor was an up and coming rebel, although today we’d like call him an insurgent. Taylor and his cronies were in the process of taking over the country and I’ll never forget the BBC report as they neared their objective. The broadcast went something like this: “Our next story comes from Liberia. Unconfirmed sources state that the rebel forces of Mr. Charles Taylor have occupied the Capitol city of Monrovia. Apparently, the entire government has taken flight. Further unconfirmed reports claim that Mr. Taylor’s forces have occupied the Presidential Palace. Witnesses claim that Mr. Taylor’s forces have stormed the Presidential Office on the second floor and thrown the Presidential desk and Presidential chair from a window.” Alone in cockpit, in the middle of a raging ocean, I was laughing so hard my sides ached. The report still ranks as my all-time-favorite newscast. Can’t you picture it? That’s exactly how I’d do it if I ever stage a coup d'état, “get that f.... desk and chair outta here; I’m in charge now!”  | | "Naturally the one time I didn’t listen to the short wave radio I nearly paid for it with my life." |  | Back aboard Quetzal, in the fall of 2003, I felt a wave of melancholy wash over me. Charles Taylor’s reign was over—heck, I’d been there from the beginning. Suddenly I felt old and stodgy. In 13 years he’d managed to take over a country, pillage and plunder it, irritate the normally docile United Nations to the point of action, and then retreat into exile. hat had I done during those same 13 years? Sail around and listen to the exploits of the world’s movers and shakers on the short-wave radio. My life just wasn’t as glamorous as I made it out to be. Naturally the one time I didn’t listen to the short wave radio I nearly paid for it with my life. More years ago than I care to admit, (indulge me, I am feeling old enough right now) I was delivering a 38-foot sloop from Sri Lanka to Cypress via the Arabian and Red Seas. After stops in India and Oman, we approached Aden, the port city of what was then South Yemen. Today, everyone knows that this region is one of the most dangerous corners of the globe, the haunting image of the bombed USS Cole being etched into our collective psyche. But then Aden was a waypoint for world cruisers, a decent port to reprovision before starting the tough passage up the Red Sea. | 
| | As we approached Aden’s outer harbor we were greeted by a series of red tracer shells whizzing just over the mast! What was going on? By the time I abandoned my absurdly naive theory that we had inadvertently strayed into a military exercise, and realized instead that we sailed directly into the middle of a rapidly escalating civil war, it was almost too late. Soon a gunboat intercepted us and pulled abeam. A bearded man with ragged cloths and an American AK 47 suggested that we anchor immediately. I took his advice and the gunboat steamed away. With the anchor set, I flicked on the short-wave radio—in those days I traveled with a small Sony world band receiver, one of the first digital short waves. News from Aden dominated the BBC World Service broadcast. Long before most of us knew that Yemen was the ancestral home of Osama Bin Laden, the dusty bottom of the Arabian Peninsula was divided into North and South Yemen. The South was ruled by a moderate Marxist regime that tolerated sailboats stopping by for a visit. The BBC confirmed that hardliners in the Air Force and Navy had decided to overthrow their less zealous comrades in the Army; the result was a violent mess that would eventually claim almost 20,000 lives and we’d sailed right into the middle of it! The gunboat had actually done us a great service. By forcing us to anchor in the outer harbor we were later able to flee the scene with a convoy of jittery merchant ships.The dozen or so cruisers anchored in the inner harbor were not as lucky. They were obliged to abandon their boats and seek refuge aboard a Russian ship that was also hightailing it out of Aden—so much for Communists sticking together. As we sped away, terrified, I chastised myself. If only I had doped up with my usual news fix a little earlier, we could have easily detoured around Aden. In this age of sophisticated communication systems, when cruising yachts routinely use satellite phones to chat with landlocked family and friends, to send and receive e-mail, or to read an article on Sailnet, the portable short-wave radio seems almost quaint. But I am not alone in thinking it’s a vital piece of equipment. A recent report by the US House of Representatives Committee on International Relations states bluntly, “Short wave radios are the best way to inform the oppressed peoples of the world.” Radio For Peace International, an international political watchdog organization, asserts, “Governments can subvert the Internet and television but short-wave signals can override political and geographic boundaries.” OK, enough politics (I told you I was a junkie). Let’s get back to radios. I have used my Grundig Yacht Boy 400 short-wave for five years, and it has never skipped a beat—even when it takes occasional spray. It's an essential part of my yacht delivery kit. It’s digital, rugged, and runs forever on six AA batteries. Most importantly, it also receives SSB frequencies, making it very useful as substitute for a fixed, mounted SSB. With the external antenna lightly taped to the backstay, and with a bit of fiddling, I am able to hear the NOAA offshore and high seas broadcasts from all over the Atlantic. On four recent passages to and from Bermuda, we were able to hear the reassuring advice of Herb on Southbound II nearly every day. Herb, the Patron Saint of Atlantic cruisers, operates a weather net/routing service.
I am in the process of preparing Quetzal for a couple of Atlantic crossing this year. I don’t have an SSB aboard yet, and although it has been at the top of my punch list since the day I bought the boat, now I am uncertain if I will add one. Please, don’t misunderstand me: I am not disputing the usefulness of an SSB, especially as a safety device. However, this past year I have logged 10,000 offshore miles and have used my Global Star satellite phone with great success. I was even part of a link that helped rescue a stricken vessel after they had capsized 200 miles east of Bermuda and lost their mast, rendering their SSB useless. I have the ability to send and receive e-mails with the Global Star, and, with a bit patience can download weather charts. As a result I am wavering about spending another $2,000 for an SSB as well as the additional costs and hassles associated with installing it. Besides, my trusty short-wave radio allows me to monitor Herb’s broadcast and—more importantly—keep up with Charles Taylor. I just can’t imagine him remaining in exile long and I don’t want to miss his next move. Short-Wave Broadcast Frequencies Below is a list of the best short-wave broadcast frequencies to hit in North America.Day Bands:
13 meter/21 MHz—Results vary; worth trying.
16 meter/17 MHz—Worth trying.
19 meter/15 MHz—The best daytime band.
22 meter/13MHz—Like 19-meter band but with fewer stations.
25 meter/11MHz—The best around sunrise and sunset.
Night Bands:
19meter/15MHz—Good during the summer months.
22 meter/13MHz—Also good during the summer months.
25 meter/11MHz—The best two hours before and after sunset and sunrise.
31 meter/9MHz—Good all night long.
41meter/7MHz—Good all night long.
49 meter/6Mhz—The best night band. |
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