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Old 08-01-2004
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Join Date: Jan 2000
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Mark Matthews is on a distinguished road
New Life for an Old Galley


First comes the easy part, the demo. Take that, you dirty counter!
The countertops in the galley on our aging vessel are perhaps a bit like the ones on yours. They have endured a number of cruising given scrapes and stains, scratches and scuffs. Hot pots inadvertently left on the counter, red wine stains, even a wet magazine that mysteriously bonded to the old Formica surface, never to come completely off. The counters were looking grubby and tired and it was time to replace them. Here’s how it all went down.

First comes the easy part: the demo. There’s a certain adrenaline rush that comes with this type of work that’s a little dangerous. It’s a lot easier to start big projects than it is to finish them. After unfastening the teak trim, pent up energy over the years of wanting to do this project but never getting around to it, makes removing the old counter top easy.

We started with the smallest and most regularly shaped of our two counter areas. The plan was to remove the old counter in one piece in the hope that we could use it for a template for the new one. Alas, the counter put up a fight when we tried to carefully pry it off and disintegrated into several pieces, bound for the dumpster. Note that Formica is brittle stuff that cracks easily. But no matter, we’d started, and like so many other boat projects, momentum was everything. Onward.

Then came the prep work. Using our well used Dewalt orbital sander and a 60-grit piece of sand paper, we went to town on the underlying wood. The idea was to get the surface ready for the contact cement that would eventually bond the Formica to the woodwork.


The template matched against where the new counter will go. Make as exact a replica as possible.
Next came the part where you'll want to take your time, despite getting closer to the enticing prospect of a new, unblemished counter. Making the template is an exact science. You can make a template out of just about anything: door skin, pieces of wood glued together with a hot glue gun, and so on. We opted to make a template the same way we make templates for canvas projects, out of a heavy construction paper. Cut it exactly to size, folding, creasing, and taping where necessary. Measure it several times against the surface underneath to make sure no gremlins sneak in the proceedings. Got it? Good.

Little did we know that we were rapidly approaching the fun part. That would be the part where we used power tools. But first we traced the template on the sheet of Formica. Our Formica came in a four by eight sheet that will doubtlessly have us with enough Formica to do other areas of the boat when time and energy allow. The original idea of scoring the Formica with a utility knife didn't work. It could be done, but only with several passes and a lot of pressure that had the blade jumping out of the groove that we were trying to cut and into the Formica that was to be our new counter.

So out came the jig saw. Our Bosch variable speed jig saw seemed happiest with a blade for plastics and operating at three quarter speed. Cut on the outside of your line by an eighth of an inch or so. The idea is to avoid the Formica from being hung up on the blade and have it jump up and down. We ended up cracking one or two pieces this way. Go slow, wear ear plugs. A strip of masking tape placed where the cut line is to be made helps prevent chipping and makes the line easier to see. When using a power circular saw or saber saw, cut from the back side of the laminate to prevent chipping.


The template has been traced on the Formica and cut with a saber saw to just outside the line. Here it’s sanded to the final fit.
Once the piece is cut, you’re on your way to the moment of truth or the moment of doof. It should be a very close fit. Initially we found you could file the Formica down to the line and then tried the orbital sander and found it worked even better. Sand to the line and to an exact fit.

Bring on the chemicals. We used Woodweld Contact Cement, applied with a brush. Once this stuff adheres, it’s permanent. Apply two coats to both the Formica and the wood, which you have of course cleaned of dust and other particles that might interfere with this next crucial step. It’s very strong smelling stuff that probably kills brain cells at an unhealthy clip, so the more ventilation, the better. Line up the far edge, get approval from your supervisor, and drop into place keeping in mind that 50 to 75 percent of the bonding strength of contact cement is present in the first contact.


The new counter bonded in place with contact cement. If the galley looks good, the whole boat looks good. Time to get cooking!
If you have any reservations about lining the piece of Formica up with where it’s supposed to go you can use thin wooden dowels in between the Formica and the wood below it to maneuver it without the contact cement catching. Once it bonds, that is the end of the story, so if it inadvertently grabs, well, hopefully you’ll still have your template and enough Formica left to make a new one, because the odds of getting it off in one piece are slim. Wax paper also works well if you need to shuffle the piece around. Once the counter is in place, pull it out, press down and voila!

Now lay some plywood down over the new formica and tap the wood with a hammer to strengthen the adherence, and it’s a done deal. You can also use a purposely designed roller to ensure the adhesive is evenly spread and bonding well. The only problem with making something you use everyday look shiny and new is that it may underscore how badly the rest of the boat needs attention. But one thing at a time.

Tips for Making Projects Go Smoothly

There are some parts of projects where there’s only one person that can do that work. Rather than twiddle your thumbs, there are things you can do to make projects go smoothly. Here are some general guidelines.

Think Ahead     The less scurrying around for tools you’ll need for whatever you are working on, the better. Finding drill bits, saber saw blades, tape, screws, adhesives, or the right kind of screw driver before it’s needed can keep the flow of the project going and keep it on track. Anticipate the next phase of the project and what will be needed there.

Stayed Focused    Nine times out of 10 a boat project reveals another one waiting in the wings. Don’t get unduly distracted. If you can fix it while you’re in there, fine, but if you find a little project blossoming into something much bigger, abort the mission for when you have time and the right parts and pieces to finish the job right.

Eat     Sounds silly, but at least in our boat repair and renovation adventures it’s all too easy to skip lunch or dinner when faced with a lot to do in a finite amount of time that most boat owners have to work on their vessels. Keeping your own onboard systems topped off though is a easy way to keep both your analytical and power tool wielding skills at the top of their game.

Set Realistic Goals     It’s easy to be over optimistic on how long a boat project will take. It’s nearly always longer than you think. The important part is not that you finish by the end of the day, though if that happens good on you. Much like sailing itself, slow and steady progress is more often the pace.



 


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