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Old 08-22-2004
Liza Copeland Liza Copeland is offline
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Liza Copeland is on a distinguished road
Adrift in the Adriatic


There is a certain magic associated with night sailing, especially, when the ocean takes on the silvery shine of the moon.
It was a perfect night with a smiling full moon, a brilliant Milky Way, and a balmy breeze from the east-southeast on our starboard beam. We couldn’t believe our luck. Weather reports throughout the summer had called predominantly for northwesterlies, often gale force in strengthnot ideal conditions for any cruiser when passaging north. The strength, direction, and resulting short, sharp seas would have been especially undesirable for our four inexperienced guests on their first overnight passage.

We had departed Brindisi, in southern Italy, at noon and were on track for an early arrival; good timing to see the splendors of the towering hills, picturesque towns and island churches of the Bay of Kotor in Montenegro, formerly part of Yugoslavia. Later, as the sails grew limp, we resorted to turning on the "iron wind," never being ones to drift along and wanting to  keep our landfall for the promised magic of dawn.

"The engine suddenly went silent. There was no warning—no faltering, no surging, no grinding or banging—it just stopped."
At 0025 the engine suddenly went silent. There was no warning it was going to quitno faltering, no surging, no grinding or bangingit just stopped, and wouldn’t restart.

It’s ‘Sods Law’ that these events always happen at night, heightening anxiety and making it harder to investigate. Normal access to our engine is through small hatches in both aft cabins and via the aft head, now used for storage and filled to the brim. Not only did we have to turn our guests out of their berths into the main cabin, but we also had to unload the stored goods there too.  

Andy started by checking the fuel and air filters but found no dirt, water, or blockage and the engine turned over normally.  He bled the engine three times in case of air in the system, checking each of the seven separate components and trying to start after each bleed. When the engine still wouldn’t fire he continued to troubleshoot without success, workshop manual in hand. Finally, no more could be done until morning, when we could unseal and raise the cockpit floor for a far more thorough overall engine inspection.


Renown for its deep blue waters, the Adriatic has become a favorite cruising ground since the fall of the Berlin Wall.
Meanwhile, all unnecessary systems were turned off to conserve power—refrigeration, autopilot, radar, instruments for wind, depth and log, PC charts and fans. Navigation lights, VHF radio and the GPS were exceptions. One person took the wheel and we trimmed the main and genoa to tease the most out of the whisper of a wind that was now from the east-northeast.  

The Adriatic was busy with shipping that night. Freighters and ferries whisked past ahead and astern with alarming rapidity while they serviced the Italian and Croatian coasts. Although traffic always requires careful monitoring, it generally isn’t a concern, but as one vessel came worryingly close and didn’t answer our call on the VHF radio we were increasingly aware of our vulnerability. Without steerage way we were unable to move out of a ship’s path. Twice during the night we had to use our powerful searchlight to announce our presence despite more VHF calls, lights, and the two radar reflectors.

The following morning access to the top of the engine revealed that the camshaft wasn’t turning and that the timing case cover was ruptured. Subsequent disassembly revealed that the timing gear had been bolted in place without the two flat and lock washers specified for each bolt. Two of these had worked loose, and the gear had wrenched free, shearing the third bolt.

It should be noted that our engine is a factory rebuilt  Perkins 4-108, a reliable and popular work-horse that dates back over half a century and that was manufactured around the world. On our trip around North and Central America our original Perkins was 15 years old. It had labored admirably for over 10,000 hours but was measurably slowing as this voyage progressed. A new engine stretched the budget, so we opted for our engine to be rebuilt by a major Perkins dealer while the boat was laid up for the winter in the Chesapeake.


The engine on board the author's boat is a factory-rebuilt Perkins 4-108.
Frustratingly, this was not the first problem we have experienced with the rebuild. Right from the start the company failed to use our engine, as specified in the contract, giving us instead a considerably older one. Resulting problems included the electrical harnessing not fitting, new wiring needed for temperature and oil pressure alarm systems, and even some of the cooling systems having to be re-plumbed.

Meanwhile, back in the Adriatic the crew rose to the occasion. They had come to worship the Mediterranean sun and what better place to do it than from the deck of a boat becalmed? When life became too hot we dove into the inviting ocean, a refreshing 71 degrees and an amazingly dark blue as we gazed into its depths. With no sign of the expected wind filling in we decided that after lunch we would put out a call on the VHF radio to try to raise another yacht. We were a tantalizing 36 miles from our destination.  But as aromas of fresh bread poured from the oven and the gourmet platter of Italian Proscuito ham, creamy cheeses, and colorful medley of veggies was being passed up to the cockpit, a voice sang out “Ship ahoy!”.

On the horizon there was what appeared to be a small motor cruiser. “Perfect,” we discussed, “hopefully going our way and sympathetic to our situation.” An English voice answered our call. “Even better, we can communicate!” Without hesitation the captain agreed to give us a tow. Blossoming rapidly in size as she approached, the magnificent 200-footer Virginian was soon alongside, all 17 of her crew peering down and ready to give us a hand. Life had definitely picked up for the two teenage girls we had aboard!

The captain had warned us of their turbulent stern wake and advised a long towing line. We had prepared a harness fastened to the two bow cleats on which we tied our 300-foot line of 3/4-inch nylon braid (kept on board for our heavy weather drogue and also used for two shore lines in the Panama Canal). It turned out to be the perfect length. Enthusiastically Virginian’s crew threw us their heaving line (its weighted turks head fortunately just missed the solar panels) and the end of our line soon disappeared through a fairlead to their cavernous afterdeck.

Then started an amazing sleigh ride. It turned out that Virginian was experiencing engine problems herself and could only run her engines efficiently at high rpm. She compromised by running just one, but this still meant that we were towed at 11.2 knots! With a waterline length of just under 34 feet this was considerably more than our hull speed. With her bow high in the air, a destroyer’s bow-wave and the roar of white surf off Bagheera’s transom, this ride will remain forever in the memories of those on board and of our rescuers gazing aft. Interestingly, although initially I clung to Bagheera’s wheel, expecting her to yaw violently from side to side, she was as steady as a rockno doubt helped by the glassy seas and our tow vessel being steered by autopilot, her course dead straight for her destination.


Cavtat in Croatia is a beautiful destination and, as the author discovered, a friendly harbor for cruisers.
Virginian was headed for Cavtat (pronounced Savtat) we learned, some six miles to the southeast of Dubrovnik in Croatia.  The officials there were extraordinarily helpful on our arrival and insisted they call the local Perkins dealer who agreed to come on a Saturday. The able mechanic, who also spoke English, was able to fix all problems without us having to even wait for spare parts. He had worked on the Perkins 4-108 before, a definite advantage of choosing an engine that is used worldwide. Besides welding the timing case cover back into shape, six out of the eight push rods had to be straightened then all reassembled and re-timed. What a relief to hear the engine purring under load on Monday afternoon, stretching the mooring lines out from the town wharf. After two hours of successful testing we were underway on Tuesday morning.

We had never heard of Cavtat before, but what a charming town it turned out be, a perfect place to be ‘stranded’ for a few days. Attractively located between two bays, the narrow lanes of old stone dwellings ooze Dalmatian charm and beside Bagheera the waterfront was alive with visitors enjoying the mouthwatering menus of the colorful cafes. What a change from our last cruise to Communist Yugoslavia in 1986.  Another bonus of our visit was enjoying Virginian’s lively crew.  As so often happens with those who have been in the yacht charter business we knew several people in common but an unexpected coincidence was finding that Andy had been an usher at the chief engineer’s parents’ wedding!

Tips on Replacing Boat Engines

·        When considering a re-build of your engine it is preferable to have your original block re-built rather than exchanging it for an engine on the shelf to ensure that ancillaries, electrical harness etc. will fit.

·        If buying a new model, check out the footprint carefully to ensure easy installation.

·        Offshore cruisers should choose an engine that is popular worldwide for servicing, repairs, and spare parts

·        The purchase of the workshop manual whether at home or away is essential.



 



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