Anchors

[SailNet]

There is no one anchor for all bottom types. Every sailor should have at least two anchors aboard for a variety of seabed and wind conditions.

The more standard anchors are discussed here. There are many types of anchors and for each of these, we suggest the manufacturer’s specifications be carefully read.

STYLES
Fixed and Tri-Fluke Style—This style anchor is designed so that even if on its side, the fluke digs into the bottom. They are excellent for most bottoms, including sand, mud, rocks, and weeds. Some of these can be self-launched and free falling from a stowed position.

Brands:

• Bruce - good in sand and rocks with limited holding power in soft sand and mud. This anchor will turn 360 degrees without breaking out and will right itself.
  
• Claw– good in sand and rocks, insufficient holding power in soft sand and mud. Will turn without breaking out.
  
• CQR– penetrates sand, mud, and weed, and hooks rocks. This anchor requires adequate scope.
  
• Delta– quick setting and good in most seabeds.
  
• Yachtsman Style– unlike the other fixed fluke style anchors, this one is good in foul bottoms, kelp and rock, with insufficient holding in sand and mud because one fluke remains exposed.
  
• Northill Style - designed for quick bite and penetration, good in most seabeds.

Bruce

Delta

Pivoting Fluke Style—These anchors, designed for good roll stability and deep penetration, are lightweight and excellent in sand and mud and are good storm and backup anchors. They provide limited or no holding in grassy, rocky, or clay bottoms.

Brands:

• Danforth – best in sand or soft mud, but reduced or no holding in grass, rock, and clay.
  
• Fortress – excels in sand and mud, minimal holding in grass, rock, and clay.
  
• Barnacle – good in foul bottoms and rock

Fortress

Miscellaneous Anchors

• Grapnel – limited holding power, used primarily for small boats and dinghies, and reef and wreck anchoring.

• Mushroom – used primarily for moorings. Capable of ten times its weight in holding power.

TIPS

• Analyze current and future cruising ground characteristics.
  Sand – use pivoting fluke style
  Mud – pivoting fluke style with large fluke area and large fluke/shank angle like the Fortress and Northill type.
  Rock– fixed fluke or grapnel style
  Kelp – same as for rock
  Grass, shale, and clay – fixed fluke style, a situation where weight and pointed fluke ends are the most important features of an anchor
  
• Analyze the size, weight/displacement, and windage of the boat.
  
• Selecting a fixed fluke type of working anchor, a general rule of thumb is the
  boat length in feet should equal anchor weight in pounds
  
• Windage affects higher profile vessels and vessels with multiple spars. Lower freeboard vessels with single spars will be less affected by windage.
  
• Yachtsman type anchors should be heavier by two pounds of waterline length.
  
• Pivoting fluke anchors run one pound per foot of boat waterline length. This method should always be compared with manufacturer tables. If there’s a difference, choose the heavier anchor.
  
• Purchase shackles and swivels with compatible working load strengths to the rode.

INSTALLATION
The average-skilled person with minimal tools can secure the anchor to the rode.

Toolbox

• Seizing wire.
  
• Pliers
  
• Shackles and swivels

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