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  #1  
Old 10-12-2006
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Deck/Hull Leaks

We have a 1980 Morgan 461 that is in excellent condition except for several leak locations that apparently come from the deck/hull joint. What is the most economical fix for this situation? Would removing the teak toe rail, reseal the joint and replacing with s/s or aluminum work?

Thanks...........Jim
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Old 10-15-2006
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there is nothing economical about this task. I would experiment with water to try and determine specifically where the leaks are. Chocks, stanchions and stays are often the culprit since they have more forces applied. If you convince yourself that the rail is the problem, the usual task is to lift the rail, rebed and refasten. The leak is usually coming thru bolts holes. The deck/hull joint itself may (hopefully) be fine. I do not know the construction detail of this joint on a Morgan. You should find out how they built the boat and specifically this joint.
I would not replace the teak rail if it is sound. I have also loosened rails without removing completely, rebedded and then set. The condition of the fasteners and your access to them will determine if they are reusable. If you have to remove the rail, replace all the stainless. A boat this age is due for this sort of work. My 78 Bristol has one rail done and one to go - a few small drips when we bury the rail. I use a moisture meter to monitor my decks and Bristols have great access (no liner) so I can see whats up in most locations.
Good luck - big job ! Larry
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Old 10-25-2007
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deck leaks

I have had this problem with my 1983 - 323 and it was not a difficult job to repair.
I am not familiar with other Morgans. What I did with mine was remove the stainless steel rub rail. This is what covers the joint between the deck and haul on my boat. I got a grout cleaning brush from HD and cleaned the joint with the brush, this helped remove any loose old chaulking. I used denatured alcohol to clean the joint for better adhesion. I then used 100% silicon that I purchased from HD and applied this to the entire joint.
I seen no need to remove the teak since this was screwed to the deck and severed no purpose other than for looks. I replaced the screws that held the rub rail with ones that where a 1/4" longer because some of the old ones where not tight.
The caulking material just gave out after 25 years. I only did this to the sections where there were leaks.
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