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Talisman66 07-23-2007 08:08 PM

Starratt-Jenks Morgan 45 info-opinions
Hello everyone, read some old threads and opinions about Morgan 45's built by S-J. Not all good comments, but like someone stated ,if you love the boat buy it. Iam looking hard at this boat and can see its been hauled out now for 3 years sitting dry and getting neglected. Some interior moisture. Some worn teak decking with a few spots where the flexible seal between the boards has gapped. The boat needs to be saved NOW before I think it gets beyond reasonable repair. There is a noticeable rust 6 inch "crack"and "buldging" in the lower section of the starboard side of the keel where water will seep out after a rain storm. The seeping will last for a week. Question; is the S-J built morgan a lead keel or a cement keel with steel encasing? Cosmetics I'm not to worried about but those issues can be a sign of larger hidden ones. Iam looking for someone knowledgeable with S-J built Morgan 45's, sloop rigged, center cockpit, for a survey or for your opinions of points to take notice about. I'm north of chicago about 1 hour in, racine, wisconsin. thanks guys, Dave

If your available for survey, please PM me and I'll give you my number to set up appointment.

allstops 12-24-2009 01:02 PM

starret jenks 45 Morgan
The starret Jenks 45 is the most undervalued blue water ocean cruiser on the market. She is a well built hull designed specifically for long ocean passages and anyone that has one knows how well she handles the big swells and strong winds. She is a great boat for those wanting to learn the ropes on a long 45 footer and I would recomend anyone buying a starret to go for it. You will now be disapointed. Her 11' bean makes her faster than any other cruising yacht on the market. I have a starret and like many other starret owners, i would rather keep her than trade her in for the fat clumsy slower
14' beamers that have litle control or manuevarability. Don't let weekend sailors used to sail along warm safety coastlines mislead you. if you want to cross any ocean in any condition, the Starret is the boat I would recomend.

bloodhunter 12-28-2009 08:21 AM

Agree with allstops with a caveat
We love Enchantress. She's not only a good ocean sailor but does well in the light air of the Chesapeake.
First a little history. The hull was designed under the IOR formula but just as the boat went into production the rule changed and Morgan was stuck with a boat it couldn’t sell. So it sold the mold to S&J which built the boats more or less to the buyer’s specifications – I gather some of the boats were actually finished by the buyers to save expense, However Morgan did actually produce a few of the boats, a couple complete and a few without rigging or interior finish. We have one of the hulls actually build by Morgan, same hull but in an aft-cockpit very low to the water sloop/cutter version -- it has a detachable staysail stay and running backstays.
The good news – she is a very good sea boat and sails like a witch (thus her name - Enchantress). She was build to sail at about a 20 degree angle of heel which significantly increases her waterline and speed – we’ve had her over 11 kts. Her 6 ft draft and 25000 displacement keep her from being thrown about in a seaway so she’s comfortable to sail.
On the ocean we sailed with a 110 jib and full main – she has a nice big main and I like that) occasionally reefing for comfort. In the Chesapeake we use a 135 genny .
More good news – IMHO she is one beautiful boat unlike the fat-assed 14-ft beam boats that abound in our marina (my wife calls them condominium boats). She also is very easily handled in fact we can back her into our slip which is no mean feat with a 46-ft boat without bow thrusters and a narrow fairway.
But before you buy you need to be very careful. As our surveyor told us before he found out our boat was actually built by Morgan, because how these boats were finished was almost entirely up to the buyers some were very, very good and others would not be worth buying at any price. Our boat has a lead keel. Some of the S&J boats also had lead keels, some were iron and some concrete. You need to find out which. The rudders can be a weak point but this is true of lots of boats. You will also need to pay particular attention to the area around the chainplates to make sure nothing is pulling loose. Also the keel join to the hull and the deck join to the hull.
After we got Enchantress home to the Chesapeake, I spend a couple of long winters refitting – not for safety but for comfort and cosmetics. My wife wanted a much better fresh water system and a flush toilet so I redid the plumbing. The wiring was okay for 1977 but did not meet current code and it had a fuse panel rather than breakers. I also more than doubled the size of the battery banks. I bought some Bluesea breaker panels and rewired the entire system. We also the floor was in bad shape so we had it replaced. Also the standard new cushions, sailcovers dodger and bimini. There are photos of Enchantress’ interior in my Sail Net photo gallery.
Anyway, if your boat passes survey you would be getting a very good sailor and a comfortable boat that you would be happy with.
:D :D

bloodhunter 12-28-2009 08:30 AM

Any idea of how many of us there are? Also where do you keep your boat?. We use our boat fopr sailing the the bay and for coastal cruising. Probably take her to Bermuda this spring. Unlikely to do any really long passage as my wife doesn't like the idea -- but maybe after Bermuda...

MickHowk 12-31-2009 11:51 PM

S&J Morgan 45
I strongly agree with both of you on the S&J 45. I'm in the process of restoring one at this time. Mine is kept on the Tampa Bay. I'll keep this short because I'm making last minute preparation for a New Years day sail. Trying to develop a list of owners of S&J 45's. We now have three on the list. :)

Talisman66 01-04-2010 08:34 PM

5 Attachment(s)

Originally Posted by MickHowk (Post 555787)
I strongly agree with both of you on the S&J 45. I'm in the process of restoring one at this time. Mine is kept on the Tampa Bay. I'll keep this short because I'm making last minute preparation for a New Years day sail. Trying to develop a list of owners of S&J 45's. We now have three on the list. :)

Make that four. I did end up buying the 1979 #179 august 2007. After poking around the boat in and out, making lists. I figured she needed the deck fixed first to stop the leaks. She had 30 year old teak decks screwed and glued, sanded too many times, beyond repair.Some of the caulk joints failed years ago and water got under the teak found the fastening screws and wet out the core. I first ripped up the old teak teck, then using a vise grip pliers removing thousands of screws. Then I cut the upper layer of the deck off exposing the core. I left about a 4 inch border of glass deck around the perimeter and beveled that edge for re-assembly. The core on my boat was 4x4x3/4 plywood squares. I removed all the squares, which was kinda tough when they are wet. Then I prepped the inner fiberglass deck with my sander after picking out all the wood from between my 4 inch border. Now I had a nice clean dry platform to begin in spring. I took the outer fiberglass deck home in large workable sections and ground off all the old crazed/craked gel-coat to bare glass, beveled the edges for re-assembly. Then I molded in 2 new secondary winch towers in the cockpit. I plan to set this up as a cutter rig. I moved the primary Lewmar st44's to the new secondary spots and bought 2 nice used Lewmar st 55's for the original primary spots. I built the new mounts from aluminum and bolted them to the cockpit and glassed over them to blend them in. You cant even tell they are not original. First winter of 2007-08 cover her up and gathered supplies to attack in spring.
Spring 08 bought balsa core with glass backing, dry fit the panels first, then soaked the balsa panels with penatrating epoxy then coated the inner glass deck with thickened epoxy. installed the balsa panels, applied a coat of epoxy to the prepped outer glass deck panels. I installed them, used patio bricks to countour and control shape, it also helped bleed air out thru the old teak deck screw holes. Then applied 8 inch wide glass strips epoxied to the beveled edges. After that cured then I installed a new 7/16 inch teak deck, no screws, only deck epoxy used to install. Then built up the glass around the ends of the teak deck to give the deck the "inlaid" look instead of the "installed on top" look. Sanded all the caulk joints the taped the teak and caulked the joints. I bought 1000 board feet of teak 7/16 x 1 7/8. 8 gallons of teak epoxy and I forget how many teak caulk cartriges. I used Maritime Wood products for those supplies. I use Polymer Composites for my fabricating epoxy. That was june 1st thru sept. 1st. then I got a jump on removing the salon floor and leaking tankage and rotten bulkheads. As we know the companionway hatch is narrow. I cut the old diesel tank out in sections and the water tank out in half. That exposed the cause of the leaking old aluminum tanks. There were not any leber holes passing thru from the fwd section ahead of the mast chainplate thru the salon and out to the bilge. When the tanks were installed they used puorable expanding foam to set them. well that prohibited any water from passing fwd to aft. After 30 years of leaks, shower drain hose loose and mast step draining, the water soaked the foam and ate thru the bottom of the tanks with tiny pin holes. I chopped out the salon bulkhead all the way down. I swore with every hit of the prybar used as a long chisel to remove wet plywood all the way down to the metal tube spine. Well, my keel is lead. The crack on the starboard side was from 30 years of water collecting between the lead and double hull, being heaved out during winter storages. I remedied all those problems starting in spring '09. Spring-Summer '09 I rebuilt 4 major bulkeads, knocked all the rust off the chainplates and coated with POR-15. Awesome stuff for rusty metal. Rebuilt both heads, fabbed new battery box, fabbed and welded new fuel tanks (3) pulled the Perkins 108, sent it to TAD for a complete overhaul with new injectors, new pumps, new lines, new motor mounts, new PYI dripless gland, New PYI flex coupler, new serpentine belt system, to run the 170 amp alt. or my new larger battery bank. Rebuilt the fiberglass engine mount pads. Reglassed the cracks in the bottom of the bilge. Those cracks weeped crap into the lower section of the double hull foam. Ground the entire engine and bilge area then gave it 2 coats of awlcraft 2000 sans the bilge itself. Removed more wet foam from the double hull, removed and patched 12 non-working seacocks. bought and installed 5 new Forespar Marelon seacocks. 4 of which are in the engine room and one in the fwd head. Had the hull blasted to remove tons of bottom paint, some VC-17 under there and VC Tar, too. Rebuilt my sea stariner, bult a raw water manifold system. and a raw water dump manifold to use only one thru-hull. New ehaust hose, custom 316 loops and tons of ceramic coated and powdercoated parts. New Teleflex engine gauges in the cockpit. New subfloor in the salon. The sink used to be under the companionway ladder. That did 2 negative things. the sink location sucked and the engine access was limited. I moved the sink to the staboard side consuming half of that setee. Built a butcherblock top and cabinet underneath. The butcher block top can be used to mount a vise for a workbench as needed. Looks factory original to the boat now. This boat has an unusually large engine room, and refer box, good for cruising, which I plan to do. This year 2010, finish the hull, install new electronics, rigging, mod the bi-folding hatch into a sliding one. re-shape the helm seat from a sqaure block into a contoured one. mount new windlass and tons of little stuff. Here are some basic pis. I'll post more in spring of the galley sink and rebuilt heads and engine room.

Talisman66 01-04-2010 08:41 PM

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more pics

Talisman66 01-04-2010 08:49 PM

4 Attachment(s)
some more

Talisman66 01-04-2010 09:03 PM

5 Attachment(s)
engine pics, shown installed but I have since cleaned up the wiring mess. Notice I cut and welded a 2 1/2 inch section to the oilpan and pickup adding 4 more quarts of oil to the 4 quart pan. Added a dual remote oil filter for 2 more quarts. Now I have 11 quarts of oil in the system instead of 4 1/2. I also moved the heat exchanger pipes from hugging the engine out to the port stringer wall, giving me alot of room to access the starter and injector pump. Also, moved the fuel filter from covering up the lift pump to the bulkhead fwd portside corner for easy access. Put a cover on the Header tank and fabbed a remote coolant resivoir in the engine room mounted just higher than the hot water heater. They had disconected the hot water heater from the engine because with the coolant cap on the header tank you could not get enough coolant in the system to pump it up to the hot water heater without having a huge air pocket. Now it works awesome. I figure I could shower and do dishes while charging the batteries on the hook.

bloodhunter 01-05-2010 09:14 AM

Great Pics
That looks like one monumental job you're doing. Engine looks really good. Be interesting to see the interior of your boat. As a center cockpit it has to be a lot different from mine. I too completely redid the water system, doubled the size of the holding tank. Put in new sinks and head.
I got my sinks from Home Depot (or was it Lowe's) In any case, after we found that new marine stainless sinks would cost us hundreds of dollars, My wife picked out a deep white acrylic sink for the galley and a smaller oval sink for the head. I think I have a picture of the galley with its sink in my photo album. The white acrylic really brightens up the galley and for 69.95, when it gets dull ans scratched I'll just pitch it and buy a new one.
Glad I didn't have teak decks especially poorly installed ones. That must have been a hellish job. Anyway keep us posted -- very interested in what you're doing.
BTW happy new year and best to you and yours for 2010
:D :D

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