Originally Posted by MickHowk
I strongly agree with both of you on the S&J 45. I'm in the process of restoring one at this time. Mine is kept on the Tampa Bay. I'll keep this short because I'm making last minute preparation for a New Years day sail. Trying to develop a list of owners of S&J 45's. We now have three on the list.
Make that four. I did end up buying the 1979 #179 august 2007. After poking around the boat in and out, making lists. I figured she needed the deck fixed first to stop the leaks. She had 30 year old teak decks screwed and glued, sanded too many times, beyond repair
.Some of the caulk joints failed years ago and water got under the teak found the fastening screws and wet out the core. I first ripped up the old teak teck, then using a vise grip pliers removing thousands of screws. Then I cut the upper layer of the deck off exposing the core. I left about a 4 inch border of glass deck around the perimeter and beveled that edge for re-assembly. The core on my boat was 4x4x3/4 plywood squares. I removed all the squares, which was kinda tough when they are wet. Then I prepped the inner fiberglass deck with my sander after picking out all the wood from between my 4 inch border. Now I had a nice clean dry platform to begin in spring. I took the outer fiberglass deck home in large workable sections and ground off all the old crazed/craked gel-coat to bare glass, beveled the edges for re-assembly. Then I molded in 2 new secondary winch
towers in the cockpit. I plan to set this up as a cutter rig
. I moved the primary Lewmar
st44's to the new secondary spots and bought 2 nice used Lewmar
st 55's for the original primary spots. I built the new mounts from aluminum and bolted them to the cockpit and glassed over them to blend them in. You cant even tell they are not original. First winter of 2007-08 cover her up and gathered supplies to attack in spring.
Spring 08 bought balsa core with glass backing, dry fit the panels first, then soaked the balsa panels with penatrating epoxy
then coated the inner glass deck with thickened epoxy
. installed the balsa panels, applied a coat of epoxy
to the prepped outer glass deck panels. I installed them, used patio bricks to countour and control shape, it also helped bleed air out thru the old teak deck screw holes. Then applied 8 inch wide glass strips epoxied to the beveled edges. After that cured then I installed a new 7/16 inch teak deck, no screws, only deck epoxy
used to install. Then built up the glass around the ends of the teak deck to give the deck the "inlaid" look instead of the "installed on top" look. Sanded all the caulk joints the taped the teak and caulked the joints. I bought 1000 board feet of teak 7/16 x 1 7/8. 8 gallons of teak epoxy and I forget how many teak caulk cartriges. I used Maritime Wood products for those supplies. I use Polymer Composites for my fabricating epoxy. That was june 1st thru sept. 1st. then I got a jump on removing the salon floor and leaking tankage and rotten bulkheads. As we know the companionway hatch
is narrow. I cut the old diesel tank out in sections and the water tank out in half. That exposed the cause of the leaking old aluminum tanks. There were not any leber holes passing thru from the fwd section ahead of the mast chainplate thru the salon and out to the bilge. When the tanks were installed they used puorable expanding foam to set them. well that prohibited any water from passing fwd to aft. After 30 years of leaks, shower drain hose loose and mast step draining, the water soaked the foam and ate thru the bottom of the tanks with tiny pin holes. I chopped out the salon bulkhead all the way down. I swore with every hit of the prybar used as a long chisel to remove wet plywood all the way down to the metal tube spine. Well, my keel is lead. The crack on the starboard side was from 30 years of water collecting between the lead and double hull, being heaved out during winter storages. I remedied all those problems starting in spring '09. Spring-Summer '09 I rebuilt 4 major bulkeads, knocked all the rust off the chainplates and coated with POR-15. Awesome stuff for rusty metal. Rebuilt both heads, fabbed new battery box, fabbed and welded new fuel
tanks (3) pulled the Perkins 108, sent it to TAD for a complete overhaul with new injectors, new pumps
, new lines
, new motor mounts, new PYI dripless gland, New PYI flex coupler, new serpentine belt system, to run the 170 amp alt. or my new larger battery bank. Rebuilt the fiberglass engine mount
pads. Reglassed the cracks in the bottom of the bilge. Those cracks weeped crap into the lower section of the double hull foam. Ground the entire engine and bilge area then gave it 2 coats of awlcraft 2000 sans the bilge itself. Removed more wet foam from the double hull, removed and patched 12 non-working seacocks. bought and installed 5 new Forespar Marelon seacocks. 4 of which are in the engine room and one in the fwd head. Had the hull blasted to remove tons of bottom paint
, some VC-17 under there and VC Tar, too. Rebuilt my sea stariner, bult a raw water manifold system. and a raw water dump manifold to use only one thru-hull. New ehaust hose, custom 316 loops and tons of ceramic coated and powdercoated parts. New Teleflex engine gauges in the cockpit. New subfloor in the salon. The sink used to be under the companionway ladder
. That did 2 negative things. the sink location sucked and the engine access was limited. I moved the sink to the staboard side consuming half of that setee. Built a butcherblock top and cabinet underneath. The butcher block top can be used to mount a vise for a workbench as needed. Looks factory original to the boat now. This boat has an unusually large engine room, and refer box, good for cruising, which I plan to do. This year 2010, finish the hull, install new electronics, rigging
, mod the bi-folding hatch
into a sliding one. re-shape the helm seat from a sqaure block into a contoured one. mount new windlass
and tons of little stuff. Here are some basic pis. I'll post more in spring of the galley sink and rebuilt heads and engine room.