Newport 27 keel. How is it constructed?

russ1302 · #1 (**permalink**) 06-15-2008

Is anyone familiar with the construction and attachment of the N27 keels? I have my boat in the yard and I'm stripping the bottom paint. Much to my suprise there is exposed lead and the keel doesn't seem to be glassed. It has a soft material that seems like fairing compound. I though it was lead encapsulated in fiberglass. Does it have keel bolts? Any info would be a huge help.

Thanks
Russ Douglass

Faster · #2 (**permalink**) 06-15-2008

I'm not positive on this but as a C&C design it's unlikely to have encapsulated ballast. Surely you've had the cabin sole (floorboards) up - you should see keelbolts if you do. In rare cases they are glassed over, but that's bad practice and not real likely.

If you can see bare lead, and the hull/keel joint then it's pretty safe to say it's a bolt on keel.

russ1302 · #3 (**permalink**) 06-19-2008

The bare lead is further down the keel from the joint. It does look like the bolts have been glassed over. I'm not sure the best way to go about re-fairing the exposed lead areas of the keel. Any advise? I'll try to post pics later they're on my work computer.

Thanks
Russ

bzirkl · #4 (**permalink**) 06-26-2008

Same story here on a N30. The manual talks about the keel attachment process, whereas they glue and bolt the keel on and then 'permanently' (whatever that means in saltwater) seal the keelbolts against corrosion. The bilge on my N30 is smooth FG, no bolts sticking out. I too found, that the fairing compound is pretty soft.
Doeas anyone have good experience with glassing the lead in? Epoxy or polyester resin??
Make sure you don't do too much lead grinding / sanding or it could be a quick way to the bottom of the ocean (for yourself that is, ha!)

russ1302 · #5 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008

I did try to limit the lead grinding, but it had to be done. I ended up using interlux 2000e as a primer, and then glassed 4 layers over the entire front edge of the keel and 8-10 inches up the hull. Then I used west systems 406 and 407 to rebuild and fair the areas that I had removed material. Now I'm in the process of prepping it for 4 coats of 2000e and bottom paint. With any luck I'll have the whole thing painted by Sunday. Repositioned on Monday, and finish the pad areas and get it back in the water before I'm broke.

samcam · #6 (**permalink**) 09-11-2008

I have recently acquired a 1978 Newport 27. I and am a little uneasy about the keel bolts being glassed over. Given the age of the boat, it would be nice to inspect the bolts. I really don't have much faith in the idea that they were "permanently sealed against corrosion". Has anyone who owns a 27, or another model with similar keel setup ever removed the glass to inspect the bolts? If so, would you comment on the procedure and your experience? Thanks!
Mike

russ1302 · #7 (**permalink**) 09-11-2008

I didn't dig all of the glass out of the bilge to expose the keel bolts. I did grind alot of it out and after getting as dry as possible, I sealed it with west systems epoxy and interthane plus epoxy paint. Even after grinding down 1/2 inch in some areas, I still didn't even find the top of the bolts.

samcam · #8 (**permalink**) 09-14-2008

I have come across the owners manual for the Newport 27S. Under "Keel Installation", reads the following:
"The ballast on Newport Boats is a solid lead and alloy keel. The galvanized iron keel bolts are permanently locked in place by positioning them in the keel at the time it is poured. An epoxy adhesive is applied to the top of the keel before it is bolted to the keel recess in the hull. A fiberglass cloth is bonded over the entire joined area to further seal it. A resin and asbestos mixture is poured into the keel recess and allowed to harden. The covered keel bolts and their nuts are now permanently locked and insured of never having water come in contact with them.
The area of the hull to keel joint and the entire keel is now coated with micro-balloons, a resin based fairing agent. The whole area is then ground smooth and more micro-balloons are applied to any hollow spots. This process is repeated until the entire installation is smooth and uniform. It is then sanded and ready for bottom paint."
Mike

KeelHaulin · #9 (**permalink**) 09-15-2008

I would not worry too much about the bolts; the epoxy bonding/sealing job they did was excellent. In addition IIRC the bolts are galvanized steel so they won't suffer from crevice corrosion like a stainless bolt would. The bain of non stainless steel fasteners is oxygen getting in and promoting corrosion; but since the bolts are sealed from above and below there should be little oxygen getting in there.