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Go Back   SailNet Community > Boat Builders Row > Islander > I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement
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Topic Review (Newest First)
1 Day Ago 02:20 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Originally Posted by gknott View Post
Great work! Thanks for the photos. An ingenious solution to the curved panels at the aft end of the teak panels around the windows. How did you hold the blocks in place while the glue set?
I didn't use glue, I used polyurethane. Poly is very sticky, more so then silicone, and silicone won't seal or adhere to gel-coat. The poly will hold the blocks in place while it cures. I used a tube and tube gun, put a decent dab of poly on and stuck them up where I wanted them. I did hit the spot with a quick scuff and acetone before putting up the blocks.

With two people, some team work, putting up the blocks didn't take long. While they are pretty secured once cured, you can still remove them with a putty knife and mallet, should you not like the locations or wanting a different block thickness.
1 Day Ago 04:43 PM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Great work! Thanks for the photos. An ingenious solution to the curved panels at the aft end of the teak panels around the windows. How did you hold the blocks in place while the glue set?
3 Days Ago 03:50 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Ok, I finally got my interior some what as a finished look. I used white smooth finished FRP for the headliner, secured wood block spacers, used mahogany batons and trim. I used the wood blocks to space the FRP off of the hull and to screw the FRP too. I used some mahogany trim piece I picked up at my local lumber yard and are pretty standard wood trim.

Mahogany trim used

I used the the Mahogany for the trim on the FRP, same as for the batons, but had to router one side of the trim to have both sided with a radius for batons. I couldn't get it with both sides with a radius. You can use the wider popular wood trim with both sides with a radius, but you would have to stain the popular. You can use a popular instead of mahogany if you wanted.

First step to using the FRP is to secure wood blocks in locations to space the FRP off of the hull and to clear hardware. I used polyurethane to secure my blocks. I then measured and cut the FRP. I chose to run the batons length wise so I didn't have to bend my wood batons, but it might be better for the FRP to have them the other way. I had to deal with the FRP wrinkling do to my center hatch. I used a heat gun to remove most, but still have more work to do to get them smoothed out. I didn't insulate my headliner, but adding Styrofoam to the back of the FRP would be easy enough if desired.

So, I did have some panel rot and severe water fade. I thought about removing and installing new wood panel, but Teak panel is expensive, and would be time consuming to do the remove. I had sections of the wood panel that I had to repair. I chose to cut out the rotten sections, woody putty the removed sections, and paint the panel. I know you purest might hate the look, but it was the most economical and time saving option. The interior of the boat is much brighter and cleaner looking. My wife likes the new look better then the, "old dirty, dark, water stained, wood panel", I tend to agree.

Blocks installed like below

Before remodel

You can see the water stains and wood rot in the above picture.

FRP installed but panel not painted

Panel Painted

You can see I put trim against the hull to hold the edge of the FRP. I used a brad staple gun to secure the trim to the hull, becareful on the length and how deep you shoot the brads, don't need them damaging the outer layer of the hull. I used some wood clue and as few brads as possible. On the lower portion of the panel I used a thin 1/2 mahogany trim piece. I then used the 1 1/4 trim, same as the batons, and upper section, to cover the FRP at the inner self. I should have just not put FRP in the self portion. It would be easier to just paint the shelf section and had the 1/2 trim covering the panel edge. I mounted LED strips to the 1 1/4 self trim piece, which also hides the LED. In the last picture, you can see a LED dome light I added, the red and white, 4 brightness levels, touch on/off.

The actual project wasn't to bad, figuring out where all the blocks go and how thick of a block to use took the most time. You have to make patterns for the FRP from thin cardboard of similar. If you skip the FRP in the selves, v-birth, and 1/4 birth, takes 2 sheets of FRP I painted my v-birth, 1/4 birth, and head ceiling and panel, much easier and saved on FRP sheets. Once again, the painting the V-birth, and head, brighten up the drape dark area of the boat.

So, that was my solution and input to the headliner issue.
11-23-2014 11:14 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

great info...
I cruised on a boat extensively made of paneling was a steel french boat...almost everything was accessible via panels, the hull and cabin that is

every single panel had glued on vynil or just wood veneer...the vynil covered ones also had BUTTONS each panel was attached via either velcro strips or fasteners or screws

multiply this by the interior area needed to be covered and you can see why its a great idea but MASSIVE job

the captain of this boat did all his interior and said he would never do a job like this again...but he also had to do cabinetry...floors, ceilings, bulkheads etc...everything however the finishing took him waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay longer than he expected
11-23-2014 07:59 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Im in the trade so have done a few of these. For starts just to let you know this is the most painful expensive upholstery job you can undertake. The MFA time sheet lists this at 4 hrs per yard of material used. So at a shop rate of say $60 an hour your looking at $275-$300 per yard is what your saving by doing it yourself.

My favorite method of doing headliners would be with foamboard panels. The pvc foamboard is wonderful stuff. Its super light, easy to cut and tool, takes fasteners with a good grip and with a heat gun can be molded into curves and recesses. The sheets come in 1/4" , 1/2" , and 3/4". Ideally these would be installed with the fastmount system

The fastmount allows the panels to be pulled down for access to those bolts that you wanted to get at. Over the foamboard a perforated or solid foam backed vinyl is typically used. Its a pita to glue even to panels but leaves a nice comfortable finish. With the panel system the vinyl can be rolled over the edges and stapled so its not considered unsupported vinyl. Which very few adhesives work for.

Just my two cents. anyway you do it remember this is a high dollar venture that your doing yourself. I price glue up vinyl so high I hope to never get another. Its that bad.
11-23-2014 12:26 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

bingo...I know I can fetch more money for my boat for example with just some interior decoration(headliner, trim...more fairing.

but when youre out of $$$ you pretty much cant so Ill wait with my temporary solution

FOR NOW! jajaja
11-21-2014 06:13 PM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Originally Posted by christian.hess View Post
downeast thats what I did on my 36, temporary but with wood trim and some fairing the white celing paint and white sides brightened my interior 1000%

even in the tropics my old interior was damp, old and very dark with all the brown vynil and brown dark plywood veneer on the sides
I think this is the best overall solution and you can always add a headliner of your choice and method. The advantage to having just paint is you don't trap any water, you can see where you have leaks, less mold possibilities, choose your color, less money for parts, can be done with one person, and gives a brighter roomier feel to the interior. However, not as of refined finished appearance to the interior. Just have to ask yourself what is the boat actually worth, personal attachment left out, we all love our boats, but not everyone love our boats as we do when shelling out the bucks to buy.
11-20-2014 11:27 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

downeast thats what I did on my 36, temporary but with wood trim and some fairing the white celing paint and white sides brightened my interior 1000%

even in the tropics my old interior was damp, old and very dark with all the brown vynil and brown dark plywood veneer on the sides
11-20-2014 06:34 AM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

The headliner on our I-28 IS coming down this storage season. After playing with leaks that are controlled by covering the companionway hatch with a tarp, I have concluded the inside "cover/base" of the sliding hatch cover's "drawer" is leaking into the boat under the headliner. That part was fiberglassed to an inverted deck molding. It seems to be leaking along its starboard side. Years of uncovered storage with ice forming where ever water could sit. It needs to be sealed and re engineered to drain properly. Then insulate and replace the headliner! Ugh? A lot of time invested in this old boat. Yup! I don't mind investing some of my "retirement time" working on the little craft I enjoy. I like being thoroughly familiar with it. There probably is a point of diminishing returns on money spent. Time, not so much. After I repair the leak I might just paint the ceilings with white two part epoxy as a first step. There are a couple of other little projects that require access to the inside fiberglass surface.

11-14-2014 02:22 PM
Re: I-28 Vinyl Headliner Replacement

Sorry for taking so long to post a reply. I have almost finished my headliner replacement in the saloon area. I use a matt finished FRP and mahogany battens to cover the seams. I used 3/4" blocks bonded to the fiberglass in locations as needed for screws in the battens, and to space the FRP off the hull to account for hardware and electrical. Seams for the FRP can also be covered with plastic strips made for the FRP.
The FRP comes in several colors and finishes. I choose matt white, but the most popular finish is the ice white, a textured rough finish.
Here is a link to Home Depot that has the FRP Ice finish. I had to special order the Matt finish from my local hardware and lumber store.
4 ft. x 8 ft. White .090 FRP Wall Board-MFTF12IXA480009600 at The Home Depot

I will try to get some pictures posted up in the next week or so. I also used mahogany 3/4 X 1/8 strips with rounded corners to cover the 3/4 welting used on the original liner. I use a mahogany 1 1/2 X 3/16 X 8' strips for my battens.

Summation of the project
If I had to do it all over again, I would just remove the headliner, put a quick sand job on the fiberglass, and paint it matt white. Yes you can see the hardware, and may have to put a few electrical ties to secure the wiring, but I think it would be an easier way to go. After all, I have a 1971 boat, and its only worth so much.
Making patterns, placing the blocks, etc, took loads of time, effort, and two people for most of the project. The sand and paint is a once person job for the most part.

Cons to sanding and painting, is the mess, using the correct equipment for sanding the fiberglass. I rather suit up, wear a hat, respirator, and vacuum sander, then have to do all of the measuring, cutting, and bonding blocks.

Pros of FRP headliner it looks better then sanding and painting. So, it's your call on how much work you want to spend on the headliner.

Hope this helped you
I'll be back soon with pics of my FRP headliner.
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