We fit bearings as a clearance fit just coat them in epoxy and slide them in by hand, much easier.
04-06-2013 11:17 PM
Re: M-34 Cutlass Bearing Removal Update
We used a Sawzall with a brand new metal blade in it for the "cut and curl" method. A few nicks of the stern tube, meh!
The cutting part took longer than I thought it would but eventually we were able to start peeling away the metal tube with other hand tools.
04-06-2013 07:42 PM
M-34 Cutlass Bearing Removal Update
Cutlass bearing is out. No set screws. New bearing in. Thought I'd send this update of what I found.
Looking for the set screws.
I sanded to bare fiberglass on both sides of the stern tube, looking for evidence of set screws. Found none.
Removing the old bearing.
I first tried the "cut and curl" method, thinking that, if there were set screws, by curling the bearing in I could pull it out past the screws. Cut the bearing at 6 locations, cutting very close to the stern tube at the -- observable-- aft end. I couldn't see the forward end of the bearing, so I kept a conservative angle to the cut to avoid cutting into the stern tube. Couldn't split the bearing. Couldn't start a curl. Didn't like the damage I was doing to the face of the stern tube. So, abandoned the effort.
Next I tried the "extractor" method. See diybob-dot-com (I don't have enough juice to post links) for diagrams. I hoped that I could at least move the bearing out enough to grab it and continue with the "cut and curl" method. The entire bearing extracted with modest effort. Because there were no set screws.
Installing the new bearing.
I chilled the new bearing in ice for about 45 minutes, ran a heat gun in the stern tube (just stuck it in the tube and let it run at the high setting) for about 7 minutes. 3 whacks from my 4# deadblow hammer, accompanied with hisses and steam, set the new bearing in place.