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Low buck projects- Let's see 'em!

858K views 2K replies 341 participants last post by  pdqaltair 
#1 ·
In this forum, we've seen big projects on small boats and small projects on big boats- let's see the cheap projects! Show us what you have done on your boat on a budget.
Here's the rules:

1) Gotta be under $100 US, or equivalent currency.

2) You must have done it yourself. Although, if you found someone to work on your boat for less than $100, feel free to post contact info.

3) bonus points will be given for elegance and ingenuity.

Here's one of mine:

I needed a cockpit table. Well, I, personally, didn't need a cockpit table, but the admiral did, and I need a warm place to sleep, so you can see how the stars aligned on this one. I sussed out commercially available, marine priced cockpit tables and promptly gagged. So, I thought to myself, "self, you could make it yourself for a lot less." One problem. Well, four actually. I have limited woodworking skills, limited woodworking tools, and limited time. oh yeah, and I am cheap.
So, I went to plan "c".

I spent some time eyeballing the cockpit in question:


Then I moseyed into action. I bought one of these for $29.99


A frenzy of measuring, remeasuring, cutting, screwing, drinking, varnishing, etc. later, and this is how it finished up:



Let's see yours.
 
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#560 ·
Thanks Denise. The only digital thermostata I found were hugely expensive. I'd love to find a couple that are 12v and LCD to save power.

Regards,
Brad
 
#561 ·
Shower sump solution

I don't know how common this issue is, but this is the problem and the solution:

Problem: My shower drains into a shallow pan that sits in a very shallow part of the bilge. There is no room to put the standard off the shelf sump system (plastic box with a bilge pump and float switch inside). The factory solution was to install a diaphragm pump remotely mounted with the hose connected to a fitting at the bottom of the pan. The pump is operated by a momentary switch in the head compartment. The issue arises when you are taking a shower, the shower pan quickly fills with water and you are standing in ankle deep water by the time you are done. The momentary switch to activate the pump is out of reach while standing in the shower. I considered just replacing the momentary switch with an on/off switch but I did not want to risk either forgetting to turn it off, or having to remember to turn it on before getting in the shower.

Solution:

I put a tee fitting in the shower hose line and installed a 12v pressure switch in the tee. I then wired it back to the momentary switch. Now, whenever you turn on the shower, the pump automatically turns on, shut off the water the pump turns off. Now the pump keeps up with the shower and no more standing water in the head. After a shower, any residual water that makes into the drain pan can be easily removed with a brief press of the momentary switch.

Very cheap and effective solution. A few bucks for plumbing fittings and $22.00 for the pressure switch.


I added the 1/2" Tee where the shower hose connects. A 1/2" nipple at the bottom to connect the shower hose, and a 1/8" bushing facing the wall to accept the threaded end of the pressure switch which is installed from behind the wall through a small hole.



The pressure switch an tee fitting. I decided to use brass instead for the aesthetics, but nylon or PVC will work just as well, and for less money.



This is the box for the pressure switch. $20-$25.00 online or available at most auto parts stores.
 
#562 ·
Re: Shower sump solution

I don't know how common this issue is, but this is the problem and the solution:

Problem: My shower drains into a shallow pan that sits in a very shallow part of the bilge. There is no room to put the standard off the shelf sump system (plastic box with a bilge pump and float switch inside). The factory solution was to install a diaphragm pump remotely mounted with the hose connected to a fitting at the bottom of the pan. The pump is operated by a momentary switch in the head compartment. The issue arises when you are taking a shower, the shower pan quickly fills with water and you are standing in ankle deep water by the time you are done. The momentary switch to activate the pump is out of reach while standing in the shower. I considered just replacing the momentary switch with an on/off switch but I did not want to risk either forgetting to turn it off, or having to remember to turn it on before getting in the shower.

Solution:

I put a tee fitting in the shower hose line and installed a 12v pressure switch in the tee. I then wired it back to the momentary switch. Now, whenever you turn on the shower, the pump automatically turns on, shut off the water the pump turns off. Now the pump keeps up with the shower and no more standing water in the head. After a shower, any residual water that makes into the drain pan can be easily removed with a brief press of the momentary switch.

Very cheap and effective solution. A few bucks for plumbing fittings and $22.00 for the pressure switch.


I added the 1/2" Tee where the shower hose connects. A 1/2" nipple at the bottom to connect the shower hose, and a 1/8" bushing facing the wall to accept the threaded end of the pressure switch which is installed from behind the wall through a small hole.



The pressure switch an tee fitting. I decided to use brass instead for the aesthetics, but nylon or PVC will work just as well, and for less money.



This is the box for the pressure switch. $20-$25.00 online or available at most auto parts stores.
Nice thinking.
 
#563 ·
Well a new Main cover at WM was close to $375, and mine was beat to hell and attached by bungee cord at this point, so I opened up Don Casey's excellent book and got to work:



After spending under $50 on two yards of Sunbrella fabric, I had the thread already, $8 on a YKK zipper, $5 on binding tape and $20 on the twist button attachments (no need for a punch, heated up knife works fine- thanks again don casey) I have a new mainsail cover:



The main is shorter than the boom anyway so why pay for an extra yard of fabric?

$83 and it took about 10 hours total, using the old one as a template. Much, much easier than I thought it would be to tell the truth.

It was so easy, in fact, that for my next project I am going to follow Mr. Casey's directions and use the excess materials to make a mainsheet bag for the cockpit.
 
#577 ·
Well a new Main cover at WM was close to $375, and mine was beat to hell and attached by bungee cord at this point, so I opened up Don Casey's excellent book and got to work:

After spending under $50 on two yards of Sunbrella fabric, I had the thread already, $8 on a YKK zipper, $5 on binding tape and $20 on the twist button attachments (no need for a punch, heated up knife works fine- thanks again don casey) I have a new mainsail cover:

It was so easy, in fact, that for my next project I am going to follow Mr. Casey's directions and use the excess materials to make a mainsheet bag for the cockpit.
Nice work. This is on my list of things to do.
 
#565 · (Edited)
put a piece of teak on the sliding companion way hatch. No finish applied yet but it really pulls the look together and is actually functional by making the lid stronger. the wood was found in scrap pile.
Before;

After
 
#567 ·
Oh, Ritchard, it's screwed from the back with a bead of sillycone to keep the water from getting behind it. shoulda used sitka flex I guess but it's not really oozing out.
 
#570 ·
Recently connected my bilge pump alarm to 12v relay, so when the bilge pump (float switch) turns on, the external sensor on my webcam triggers.

Now I get an email whenever the bilge pump turns on. I get an email like this one:



Some short wires and crimped connectors <$10
12v relay from Radio Shack <$10
Total cost: less than $20

(I already have the webcam sending me pictures when it detects motion on the boat. They go for about $50. And it takes about 1.5 amps to drive it and the long range WiFi setup.)

I have a separate, different relay to use when I care more about staying connected to shore power, like in a slip in winter time.

Regards,
Brad
 
#571 ·
I spent the majority of my worklife in IT and I suddenly feel OLD. :)
 
#572 ·
Another low bucks project; watch out ed$son! :D
More scrap wood I've collected. the drink holder was $20 at Bacon sails. I had a plywood swing up but it got trashed by the sun and weather. this one will be kept covered. May make "wings" for it to fold out and make it a real outdoor dining table :D
 
#579 ·
I'd be very curious to see more details, please! I've been considering doing this, and would love to see how others have done it. I have some 1/2" thick, 12"x36" starboard, and have been toying with a few different ways to use that to make the seat. Of course, my stern only has a single rail, so that will make it more interesting, but it would still be good to see how you did it.
 
#582 ·
It sounds like a great idea but I can't help thinking "What would the Herreshoffs say about this?"

Could you get it to burn kerosene somehow? :D
 
#588 ·
#595 · (Edited)
What I do:

Take the battery out. Put a vacuum hose on any obvious openings, let sit running for a couple hours. Vacuum with make water vaporate fast without using damaging heat.

I usually make sure I'm not near the vacuum for those hours, since the whole setup is noisy.

Regards,
Brad
 
#593 ·
Slippery when wet

Slippery when wet.

I have a real money saver.
The tiller and handrails that are used the most are somtimes slippery when wet
and quite hard to get a firm grip or hand hold.
I now use self amagamating tape wrapped a few times around a hand hold gives a very good grip and can be removed as and when required and replaced...
 
#594 ·
Nothing too fancy, but my wife wanted a way to lock the boat when we are staying on board at the dock.

Picked up a sliding bolt latch for about $4 at the hardware store. Not super secure, but an unobtrusive addition that matches the rest of the hardware.

It will help her sleep easier at night and at the very least, wake us (or the dog) up if anyone tries to pry it open. Also has the added benefit of being easy to undo should be need to get out.

I also oiled the teak slats this weekend - but did that after taking the picture.
 

Attachments

#596 ·
Brad,
Sounds like you have experience with this kind of stuff. My Iphone 5 was not designed to make it easy to remove the battery. It seems to be alive again but I utilized my warranty/insurance and a new one arrived last night.
 
#598 ·
Our 15' Albacore is new to us, and hasn't been in the water in a few years. The previous owner said that the port-side seat (which doubles as a flotation compartment) sometimes takes on water. He tried tracking it down, but couldn't find the source. I haven't gone hunting yet (not sure how I'd do that, either), but when I had to throw the boat off the trailer, I did notice that the port side seat had a good bit of water in it. I used a hand pump to get most of it out, but I'm still a bit worried about how that will impact the overall bouyancy of the boat in the event it gets swamped.

While contemplating how to find and patch the leak, my mind started to wander, and I remembered the pool noodles I found at the dollar store. I went back there today, and purchased $25 worth of noodles to stuff into the lockers. I figure it's better than nothing, and might just help keep the boat from sinking the first time I launch her.
 
#599 ·
While contemplating how to find and patch the leak, my mind started to wander, and I remembered the pool noodles I found at the dollar store. I went back there today, and purchased $25 worth of noodles to stuff into the lockers. I figure it's better than nothing, and might just help keep the boat from sinking the first time I launch her.
I know someone that used bundled pool noodles when rebuilding a kayak. Some noodles are closed cell and others are open cell. Both are buoyant, but the closed cell is preferable because it holds onto less moisture.
 
#600 ·
I have one of those thick black rubber rubrails below my toerail that has a white tube of plastic sandwiched in the middle (the tube hides the screws). The other day I took a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser and scrubbed the white part. It was really looking dingy ... now it looks like new. Total cost $3.00.

Note, I am always skeptical if those erasers have detergents in them ... I would hose of your hull and brightwork before that stuff stays on any surface too long.
 
#604 ·
I've also learned, on a new surface, to test the Magic Eraser in an inconspicuous spot. It can effect some finishes (making them more matte). I wouldn't use them on the hull or glossy painted surfaces.
Yes the magic erasers are quite abrasive. I think I have read that they are about equivalent to 1500 grit sand paper. It has been awhile, but I used to frequent a lot of car detailing forums.
 
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