|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-07-2007 04:53 PM|
... different business format.
Some manufacturers price the engines at very low prices with the intent of gaining market share; this market share then becomes a captive audience for their parts/spares which are greatly overpriced and coded so as not to make it easy to find aftermarket replacements. Very much like the consumer printer/fax market, they practically give the hardware away but then you must pay for the toner/ink at a very high price/manufacturer margin.
BETAMARINE does not get into price wars to gain acceptance by the builders so you pay more on initial purchase but you can get parts at the local KUBOTA tractor dealer for decent prices (without the "Marine" mark up). We give you the KUBOTA part numbers and you are free to buy where ever you get the best pricing. Of course, we sell all parts and we have to compete with the market at large.
Also, BETAMARINE has chosen the re power niche. And when you order we can match the Atomic 4 engine mount foot print ... for example.
BETAMARINE is an OEM option on some vessels like CaboRico.
|01-07-2007 04:25 PM|
Georgellop: I agree on the stuffing box issue, I talked to a lot of mechanics and old-timers and decided to go with the conventional stuffing box with the new packing flax. A side question:
Why is it that BETAMARINE is not chosen as OEM on new sailboats?
|01-07-2007 04:05 PM|
Brak, indeed, I am the dealer for BETAMARINE in South Florida.
.... Figure about 5 days work +/-. I will be back in my office tomorrow... you can either call me or I'll send you an e-mail w/information and pricing.
The main reason users recommend BETAMARINE is because their (BETAMARINE'S) niche is repowering as opposed to OEM supply. Also, they are based on KUBOTA diesels which have a top notch reputation...
... gald to help. Thanks.
|01-07-2007 03:53 PM|
JouvertSpirit... for what is worth, I think you did good by keeping the conventional stuffing box. I believe the dripless seals are a product well engineered but when you loose cooling water to them (which is not supposed to happen ) you might be facing catastrophic consequences.
... been there done that ....!
|01-07-2007 03:49 PM|
I am guessing by your signature you work for Beta marine? What is that product someone mentioned that is a good replacement for A4? And what's that cost?
Also, though I realize this is all subject to specific conditions of the boat, what would be the professional installation cost? If you can't give me the price for whatever reason - just a ballpark number of work-hours would do, I can multiply it by whatever labor rate here happens to be
Originally Posted by georgellop
|01-07-2007 03:46 PM|
Originally Posted by cardiacpaul
|01-07-2007 03:35 PM|
I am in the process of repowering my Pearson 10M with a new Yanmar 3YM20. The old engine is a two cylinder Farymann. I plan to keep the original fuel tank (SS), fuel lines, Racor filter and raw water strainers, control levers and cables, shaft and prop. Will have to go to larger exhaust hose, and modify the stringer beds a little. Boat comes out of the water early next week and I expect to have it running within 7 days with the new engine. I know this is not the same as going from gas to diesel.
I'm taking before and after pictures and will keep the group posted on the progress. I know there will be unexpected problems that will have to be dealt with.
I debated for a while on using a dripless stuffing box but finally decided to go conventional.
|01-07-2007 03:15 PM|
Repowering a sailboat is an easy project as long as you can remove the old engine and drop the new one without having to disassemble them..
The main issues are going to be:
Engine brand/model and Reduction gear choice: Here you have to do your research and due diligence.
Once you have removed the old engine and presented the new one in its place, you will be able to tell what if any changes to the engine bed need to be made. Also the lenght of the shaft could be determined. If a new shaft is needed then haul out and replace the bearing (if showing wear) the shaft and the prop.
Once the new shaft is in position with the coupler installed, position the engine on its bed and align port/stbd, mark and bolt mounts. Stop the aligment work at this stage and install s/w, f.o. and exhaust hoses and the wiring harness/gauge panel. Lauch the boat, let it settle and complete the aligment of the engine/trani to the shaft coupler. Seatrial.
You can reuse your tank (flush it), tie the return to the vent hose.
All the details involved in steps above are all over your new engine owner's manual and the internet.
If you decide to go with a diesel engine then the choices will be a used engine, rebuilt engine or a new engine. The main reason people re-power is beacuse they have had enough of the problems i.e. lack of reliability.... with the cost of labor being what it is put your $ to the best use and get a new engine. i.e. 00000 hours, no problems, 100% reliable. Regardless, you will be having to deal with installation whether you choose a used/rebuilt or new engine.
|01-07-2007 01:14 PM|
Originally Posted by uniexpany
|01-07-2007 12:46 PM|
Beta has a great product for A4 replacement. Previou scomments are spot on though. If you plan to keep the boat for the next 20 years go for it, if not A4 is a great motor.
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|