|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|01-21-2007 09:31 PM|
John...getting back to your actual thread...
One thing I wanted to mention if you DO decide to run heat exchanger lines from the engine back to the heater exchange...be sure to put stop **** valves in place on the ENGINE end of both out and return lines. That way...if you have a clamp fail or hose burst and lose your water/coolant, you can close the valves, re-fill and go start the engine.
I think I've said this before somewhere, but it bears repeating as so many installations I've seen just clamp the hoses on.
|01-21-2007 09:22 PM|
BIG MISS is like Portugal in the World Cup!
|01-21-2007 08:28 PM|
Originally Posted by Giulietta
|01-21-2007 06:51 PM|
Wait a minute now, I'm not dumping anything in my bilge.
I am my crew. So I only have to worry about what works for me. Not to mention what works for my wallet. And that's probably the main consideration at this point. After redoing all the wiring on the boat, complete with new distribution panels (which is what led to the question on water heaters), new A/P and davits, another 5 to 6 hundred seems like a lot. There is a Force 10 for around $200, but that would be iffy on space.
Mostly though, this thread was a way of thinking outloud. So far, I've replaced with new, rather than try to extend 20+ year old parts and I don't want to do anything half-a$$ed. It may only take me a day to do something, but I've generally thought about it for at least a week before deciding to do it. I not only want to put it in right, I want to be able to take it out easily if necessary. Something the PO's gave no thought to.
I appreciate all the responses. It's one thing to think about something, quite another to get "real life" input. What works in theory, doesn't always hold up so well in reality.
|01-21-2007 05:55 PM|
Red - John is the stinky one. I have the IsoTemp. You do make a good point. I had to rip out a perfectly good setup, create new space in a new location for the IsoTemp and solve some related space problems. Those modifications drove up the price - the IsoTemp was around $800.
One last point on the instant heaters - When I was looking, most were usable only at one location so no HW at galley. If going with instant, read the specs carefully. NowI smell good and my galley is clean.
John - if it can't be repaired, replace what you have with a new, well insulated tank and make your crew happy.
|01-21-2007 03:53 PM|
Larry the heat exchanger HW heaters are pretty reliable. You already have the footprint and the plumbing. Tanks aren't that expensive. We are full time liveaboards and shower aboard anytime the crew don't care to walk up to the marina when we are in port..which is to say, frequently. Shore power heats fast enough to get everyone (2 adults, 2 kids) done in about 1 1/2 hrs from switch on to wiping down the head. Running the engine actual gets the water hotter and does well enough for the entire crew to shower at the end of the day. We use an Atlantic Marine 6 gal unit. Has a 5 year warranty and has worked fine. The boat originally discharged into the bilge with all the attendant problems mentioned. I tried unsuccesfully to use a Jabsco Par Max 3 Shower sump pump and after 3 replacements I went to a Whale Gulper model and problems ended. I use a Y valve that connects the shower sump to the "Drying bilge pump discharge line" works great. Might add that the crew is well trained in water conservation even though we have 150G. Also with a 4-107 we produce sufficient heat with the exchanger pretty quickly. Water temps are in the mid-upper 40's right now. Hope that helps.
|01-21-2007 03:50 PM|
Originally Posted by CapnHand
|01-21-2007 03:28 PM|
Why would anyone need a hot water heater? Why would you want to heat water that's already hot?
What you may want is a COLD water heater; much more useful.
|01-21-2007 10:38 AM|
I know this is an old thread and you've been given practically every solution possible, but I didn't see anything mentioned about a defective or lack of a thermostat. Heat exchangers do sometimes fail, not regularly, but thermostats do. Was it taken out? You didn't mention the temperature your boat operates while under motor. That's the first thing I'd look at to see if there's a problem.
"I realize the instant one would only be good at the dock. What I'm wondering, is if I really need one at all."
Please, for the sake and sanity of crew, get one, any one
|01-20-2007 12:09 PM|
Insurance companies tend to be a bit conservative, and lag behind the times. But, as my gas company kept telling me, gas explodes, it's really really dangerous. (They kept warning me about pilot lights I might have, for things like a gas refrigerator, too. Ah, not in this town, not for fifty years or more.)
There's such a thing as being too conservative, too.
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