|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|03-16-2007 10:21 PM|
|sailingdog||BTW, just looked at the Lewmar site and their hatches are using acrylic (Plexiglas) rather than ABS (polycarbonate or Lexan).|
|03-16-2007 10:04 PM|
Sabre 66 I am assuming Plexiglass. It is the main sliding hatch on an S2 9.1.
I do not know how to tell the differcne but assume if Lexan is much more expensive then most production boats have plexiglass.
|03-16-2007 05:23 PM|
A couple other points about lexan vs. acrylic (plexiglass).
Lexan generally scratches more easily than Acrylic,
Lexan is generally more expensive than Acrylic.
Lexan is generally less UV tolerant than Acrylic.
Lexan is stronger and more impact resistant than Acrylic.
If you do get Lexan, make sure you buy the kind that is rated for exterior use, and is UV-resistant and has a scratch-resistant coating.
If you want to save some money on buying it...look for an industrial sign supply company. Many will sell a half-sheet of lexan at a reasonable price. Many will also cut it down to size for you. I got a 2' x 4" sheet of 3/8" lexan for making new drop boards on my boat from one for about a third of what it would have cost me in anywhere else.
|03-16-2007 02:46 PM|
Bob, any glazier can work with any glazing. Glass, plexiglass, lexan, all get referred to as "glazing materials".
But all lexan is not the same, you will find at least a dozen grades of it just from GE (the trademark holder for that brand) alone. I would suggest that when you get estimates, get specific estimates for the exact material grade, color, and thickness that will be used. You may find a 10x difference between polycarbonates (i.e. Lexan) and acrylics (i.e. Plexiglass) and a 4x-6x difference within each material group as well.
A glazier usually will buy in full sheets (4'x8') and charge you per sheet--keeping the excess unless you ask for it. Hey, it's yours, it might be of use elsewhere on the boat. And that can make ordering replacements from a manufacturer cheaper, or competitive, since they aren't charging you for full sheets.
The proper bedding and sealing compounds can also be damned expensive, if you look them up they aren't your $10 silicone seals.
All of the glazing materials come in different grades designed for UV and scratch resistance, and with a deck hatch you want the best resistance you can get. It is UV and petrochemical exposure that usually makes them craze.
Do you need Lexan? Possibly not. 1/2" or 5/8" thick plexi can take a lot of abuse, you'll need to decide that one yourself. Dropping a spinnaker pole from a mast mount into the hatch cover...you might want Lexan. going offshore and having green water drop 40' onto it, same thing. But many boaters don't want to pay 10x the price for the glazing to withstand that if they don't need it.
|03-16-2007 12:55 PM|
Originally Posted by Gary M
|03-16-2007 11:47 AM|
You got me. I was so caught up in my own evolution that I have just completed, that I didn't comprehend the question. Maybe I can redeem myself. If its just the flat Lexan that goes on top most companionways. Its pretty straight forward any glasier should be capable of replicating it. To do it yourself. Cut out the same shape/size hatch, the radius of the edges can be accomplished with a router, you need a sharp cutter and a mist of coolant to prevent smearing the material and then polish this edge with a cloth wheel and rouge. I hope that helps...
|03-16-2007 10:47 AM|
The SailNet store carries Lewmar hatches. Size 60, which is 22 11/16 x 22 11/16, possibly the size you're looking for, is listed at $398. Here's the link: http://shop.sailnet.com/product_info...oducts_id/3924.
Although I have not worked on Lewmar hatches, I did build 6 new hatches for my boat in 2003. If you use Boatlife Life caulk, as recommended previously, and you're careful, you can probably replace the lexan (or use cast acrylic instead of lexan) yourself and have a leakproof job.
|03-16-2007 10:04 AM|
|Freesail99||If it doesn't have a frame, I bite the bullit and pay the $300.00. If the edge curves a fraction you'll have leaks.|
|03-16-2007 09:53 AM|
I need to replace my main sliding hatch. It is about 1/2" thick and is curved, about 3/8" in 30". It does not sit in a frame just slides in the rails.
I was planning on checking with a glass shop, but would heating the new one then clamping it to the old one to take the shape work? Any suggestions ?
|03-16-2007 09:51 AM|
Most ports may be convex, but most hatches I've seen that are lexan or acrylic are flat, or very close to it.
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