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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-18-2007 12:35 AM
Boasun Well you could walk out the anchor to the water's edge. lay out a 1/4 of the scope you are planning to use on/in chaffing gear (old fire hoses are great for this). Then as you cross your drop zone and start backing down, release the anchor and ease back to straighten out the chain/rhode while releasing one bight of chain/rhode at a time. Put the engine in neutral and then ease out the rest of the scope, allowing the wind & current to move you back. Then set your anchor with a hard tug on the rhode. Then sit there for awhile to insure that you are not dragging anchor. Secure everything for port and enjoy your stay.

Note: The chain is to run through the chaffing gear. Not carry the chaffing gear into the water. Its to protect your pristine decks, bulwarks an anything else you don't want destroyed by running chain. 4" fire hose or 2.5" fire hose would work. Anything lighter in material would probably not work.
06-16-2007 11:02 AM
sailaway21 But the question is obviously not dead, Dog. (g)

I would say that it would certainly depend upon a variety of factors as to whether your method is adequate. The size of your boat should be irrelevant. Generally speaking, one should ensure that one's anchor is good and truly set before commencing any other activities. You may set the anchor on long scope, and then shorten up to short scope as necessary for those activities, with the ability to pay out more rode as necessary. The fundamental thought should be that conditions, plans, and activities are all subject to change while, the need for a properly set anchor will remain paramount to dealing with those possible changes. There are many threads on this topic, I suspect you're reading through them, and if they do not answer your question please ask away, again.
06-15-2007 06:08 PM
sailingdog Tagster-

Generally, you shouldn't revive dead threads... This thread was almost four years old—basically very dead...
06-15-2007 03:59 PM
tagster I have a big boat, and a big anchor, and a big windlass.

Most of these techniques don't seem like they'll work for me. I'm preparing for my first passage (Seattle to SF). But when I've dropped my hook in the lake during raft-ups and the lot, I've never done much more than ease it out off the bow until I feel it hit the mud, and then scope it out. I suppose if I can trust the water a bit less, then I have to put some more work into setting my hook.

Jeff's method seems like it would work well but it also seems a bit complicated. Is it really that infrequent that you can let the drift set the hook?
10-18-2003 09:06 PM
single handed anchoring?

On my old boat I kept the anchors and rode in a cockpit locker since I didn''t have a bow locker. I would put it on a cleat in the cockpit and set it, then walk it up to the bow cleats then release the cockpit cleats.
On the current boat I try to be going slowly backwards downwind or the direction that I think will be downwind when the wind blows hardest. Then I go forward and drop the hook before the bow falls off. The key thing is to always be sure that the anchor line is clear of the boat before I take the motor out of neutral.

I have looked at two boats this summer that had electric windlass with a remote up/down switch in the cockpit. A nice thing if you had an electric windlass. They also had anchor washdowns which also looked nicer than my seeing how long I can dip the anchor before I have to go back to the cockpit and control the boat. If its really windy or crowded I throw the whole gloppy thing in the locker and try not to touch anything (mainsheet,steering wheel) until I can at least rinse my hands off.

09-13-2003 02:23 PM
single handed anchoring?

Having the anchor line flaked down on deck while motoring seems like pretty risky business to me. I''ve heard of more than one boat ending as a total loss after the engine was stopped by line in the prop.

If you don''t have a chain locker or a deck locker near the bow that the line can run from, I recommend stowing the line in a cockpit locker or the lazarette. Shackle it to the anchor on the bow just before entering the anchorage, making sure it is stopped in the cockpit and don''t let the stopper go until the last minute. As a last resort dump the line in the cockpit well (neatly) and let it run from there. And watch your feet!

As an aside, I''ve never found it necessary to flake or coil a synthetic anchor line. As long as it''s piled fairly carefully with the running end on top, it runs smoothly with rarely a hiccup. My experience has been (since 1970) that coiled line is more likely to tangle when let go. When in doubt experiment, before crunch time.

Have fun.

09-10-2003 05:42 AM
single handed anchoring?

I single hand quite a bit in the Chesapeake. What I do, though not elegant, works very well... I put my #8 Danforth in a plastic bin and keep it in the cockpit with me. When I''m ready to anchor, I drop it off the stern and cleat it at the coaming. I set it manually (the bay is full of primordial mud), then walk it to the bow and let out the desired scope.

If I feel the need to set two anchors, I use a similar procedure, but set the first from the stern, then motor near to the spot where I wanna put the #13 down, chop power and move forward to set the second anchor - knowing I won''t drift farther than the rode I have out at the stern already.

Hope this helps.
08-14-2003 07:12 PM
single handed anchoring?

Ahoy, me solution is much simpler I''s sails to me spot drops me anchor offen de bow when I luffs up and lets out 100'' of line and starts drinking heavily. De rest never worries me much. Pirate of Pine Island.
08-13-2003 04:32 PM
single handed anchoring?

More to the original question of setting the anchor single-handed using the engine:
It has been mentioned that flaking out your estimated scope on the foredeck and cleating it off will eliminate the need for a bowman.

An alternative is to run the rode through (by this I mean under the horns and between the legs of a cleat, employing it as a fairlead, rather like a footballer running between the goalposts in the endzone) or fairlead on the bow, then carry the line back to the cockpit and throw a couple of turns around a jib winch. Now you''re both bowman and helmsman, but can stay in the cockpit where the engine controls are.

Using the "pre-cleated" technique, it''s all automatic, as long as the rode runs off the deck freely and doesn''t foul on anything; using the "bowman/helmsman" technique is a bit messier, but you can let the rode run right out of your hand and snub as you choose as you back down.

Hope this is helpful,
08-06-2003 05:45 PM
single handed anchoring?

Thanks alot for that idea on singel handed anchoring. I will be moving into some real waters soon and with that would comes alot more company in an anchorage. This had just started to dawn on me as a problem. I will be trying this procedure as soon as I can. On the GSL the water is shallow enough to anchore anywhere we just don''t have any protected areas outside the marinas.
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