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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Port Lights
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Topic Review (Newest First)
06-28-2007 01:48 PM
poopdeckpappy That's why if you go lexan, you should go MR-10 and a slight tint

I went the route I did because 3/16 lam was not avaiable, 3/16 MR-10 was hard to get, and do to the size of my ports, the temp would have to take a pretty hard shot to break, I have nothing that would flog around that could cause that kind of impact.
06-28-2007 01:07 PM
snorphinj With regard to Lexan, Select Plastics in their FAQs Select Plastics, LLC
states that neither they nor Lewmar recommend Lexan (polycarbonate) and prefer acrylic. While Lexan is stronger it yellows and degrades at such a rapid rate its life could be half that of acrylic. Additionally Lexan scratches easier than acrylic unless it has a special (extra cost) laminate which is subject to delamination. BTW they will sell you either Lexan or acrylic or several other plastics.
06-28-2007 08:34 AM
sailingdog Yotphix-

The problem with laminated tempered glass is price and availability. Have you priced it?? Lexan is relatively inexpensive and easy to work with, even for custom shapes and slight bends.
06-28-2007 02:22 AM
yotphix Not trying to scare you but the thing about tempered glass, in my experience, which is considerable with clear sheet materials, is that it just isn't all that hard to break. I always felt that the main advantage in most uses is that it doesn't sliver and is therefore less dangerous if broken. Most times when people want glass to be really tough, it is laminated. Not because it won't break but because it stays together after it breaks.
3M makes blast proof laminate that you can apply to glass yourself that will not give up even when the glass it is applied to is in tiny pieces. I think it is the same stuff between laminated sheets, though the glass people would never tell me for sure. If I had glass ports or lights on a boat, I would definitely consider the laminate as and addition. Alternatively, you can buy laminated, tempered glass and be more or less bullet (certainly wave) proof.
06-28-2007 01:32 AM
poopdeckpappy
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog
The only problem with tempered glass is that it has to be custom made to fit...
Well, that's kinda true

Quote:
and if you have strange sized ports, getting the tempered glass can be more expensive than Lexan would be.
Mine were odd shape but, they were flat, so cutting the shape was no more a cost factor than cutting a rectangular shape

Quote:
Also, tempered glass can shatter if hit by a hard object... seen a shackle on flogging genoa do that.... where Lexan would probably survive such a hit.
Hit hard by a hard object......yes, but then again having something that is attached to something that could flog hard enough to break a window, is something I would avoid at all cost, tempered glass is way harder than my head


However, had I been able to find 3/16 MR-10 at a reasonable time frame, I would have gone that route
06-27-2007 10:37 PM
sailingdog The only problem with tempered glass is that it has to be custom made to fit... and if you have strange sized ports, getting the tempered glass can be more expensive than Lexan would be. Also, tempered glass can shatter if hit by a hard object... seen a shackle on flogging genoa do that.... where Lexan would probably survive such a hit.
06-27-2007 02:29 PM
poopdeckpappy If you use Lexan, you should look into the MR-10, it has the UV protection and resists scratches better

When I replaced my port glass, I went with 3/16 tempered glass
06-27-2007 01:55 PM
Bardo
Port Lights

My 1969 Bristol 29 has the usual crazing on all of the ports. Is Lexan still the best product for the ports, or is there a newer technology available? The project to replace the lexan looks fairly simple (famous last words). Thoughts or advice?

 
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