|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-03-2007 11:13 AM|
|camaraderie||Tre... one thing you might want to do between now and October is to tighten up on the stuffing box to minimize the dripping. While you likely need to replace the stuffing in the fall...you want to keep the dripping to ZERO while at rest and one or two drops a minute while under power. To do this...loosen the small stopper nuts and tighten the large nut down so that it screws down (towards the left in your picture) till the drip just stops. Then re-tighten the stopper nuts.|
|09-03-2007 10:44 AM|
Originally Posted by trantor12020 View Post
All the best,
|09-03-2007 06:46 AM|
Start the motor, put it in gear, and hold a wire brush to that moving shaft. NO lanyard on the brush!!!!!
Trescool..... they always are supposed to leak... they are designed to leak to cool the shaft seal. It's fine if there is a wee drip, as long as it's not peeing out.
The leak may not be that bad. All of that will clean up quite nicely, given some attention.
I would wait until you haul it. That shaft looks a bit tired, and heat will get that flange off. If the shaft is shot, just cut it off with a grinder and save the coupling... the big rusty bit on the right. You will not have to move the motor then if you cut the shaft. You will need a new shaft of course.
Orthodox stuffing box packing is fine. You will have to get the old stuff out. There is a curved, pointed, screwdriver-like tool available to help you if the shaft is still there, and it's a gift to remove if the shaft is not there.. Remember when you replace it, use horseshoe sections of the stuffing, and not a spiral.
Properly done, you will get 15 years out of a packing, and easily.
|09-03-2007 02:03 AM|
Originally Posted by Tartan34C View Post
|09-03-2007 01:44 AM|
Yeah, normally you have to haul the boat to re-pack the stuffing box. Lots of water comes in, otherwise . There is a procedure I read about somewhere--can't find it now--that involved packing the shaft from the water side with a "rope" of silly putty in a large baggie, that allows you to do it in the water.
Whenever you do this, you might want to consider GFO Stuffing Box Packing. Somebody brought it up on the P30 mailing list. Says the stuff is terrific. Said that, just like the advertised claims: He installed it, adjusted once after a bit of run-time, and hasn't had to touch it in three years.
|09-02-2007 02:05 PM|
Itís unlikely to start dripping much faster in the short term. Waiting will only increase the amount of rust and corrosion so if the amount of water coming into the bilge is OK with you then run it until you haul the boat.
Good luck with the work and all the best,
|09-02-2007 01:58 PM|
The boat will be hauled out in late October or November. Am I safe using the engine until then without creating more problems for myself?
I can then make my winter project be cleaning it up!
|09-02-2007 01:46 PM|
The big rusty thing is the shaft coupling which joins with the transmission output coupling. It can be removed but you will need a gear puller and the engine needs to be moved forward to gain enough space to work on it. Sometimes you can separate the two flanges and put a nut between the shaft and the transmission. Then retighten the bolts and push the shaft out that way. I would rather move the engine and work like a gentleman.
To rebuild the stuffingbox you will need to haul the boat. You could repack it while still in the water but you really need to clean everything up so wait until you are out for winter storage.
Nice web site billangiep. I need to bookmark that one.
All the best,
|09-02-2007 01:37 PM|
- Do I need to haul the boat out of the water to do this?
- Will repacking fix my leak?
- What is the big rusty thing to the right in my photo and can that be removed to clean it up?
|09-02-2007 01:30 PM|
I agree with Tartan...here is a link to a good break down of the stuffing box and how to repack..
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