Ditto that. Do you have ACCESS to the entire hull topsides from inside your 424? The striker plate can simply be screwed to the teak rub rail. Suggest bolts in the rubrail be countersunk about 1/2 way and then plugged so teak rather than hull will split under heavy stress. This is a pretty massive job to attempt after the fact. Are you planning to do it yourself? Lotsa compound curves to deal with.
Suppliers on Long Island... http://www.woodply.com/advert1.htm http://www.getwood.com/stage/rtb1481...tails_teak.htm
12-30-2007 11:11 PM
IMHO, a rubrail should be through bolted, preferably with large backing plates, so that it can resist most forces that might damage the backing area. The steel strake doesn't necessarily need to be through bolted.
12-30-2007 10:31 PM
teak rub rail
The more I think about it, the more I want a teak rubrail with a steel strake atop it.
I'm hoping for piling protection, a footing for tots and my short-legged wife to use when climbing aboard (they weigh very little) and moreover I feel it complements the lines nicely (Pearson 424). Some of my sisters appear to have this stock and others do not.
Any suggestions for a willing and able shipwright, FL or NY areas, or alternatively, a description of how easy and inexpensive it was for you to fabricate.
I am especilly keen to know if it is best through-bolted, more than just to make the bend, or attached primarily with 5200. If a good portion gets ripped off, if it is through-bolted, there will be substantial hull damage. If that prospect is likely (or unlikely) because of the way it is made, I would greatly value the wisdom of the ages.
Any reliable source of teak (not necessarily Burmese) would also help. Thanks