|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|06-15-2008 11:36 PM|
|82sabre||wow that is unbelievable|
|06-15-2008 11:32 PM|
I came across this boat a couple of years ago while in Honolulu. Blew me away!!!! Sorry that I can't post a photo directly - never have been able.
BOAT OF SHAME - Honolulu, HI
|06-14-2008 07:55 AM|
I think he NEEDS to go with the marine ply...
in S.Florida, it rains... almost every G&^ D&^% day.. The humidity here is off the scale. (8AM, 76%, if I wasn't for the bikinis, I'd think I was in Seattle) Even if he seals other wood products like a duct taped hefty bag, it'll separate VERY quickly.
|06-13-2008 11:29 PM|
|Sabreman||Now that I think about it a bit further, I think that 10b contradicts sailingdog's comment about hard spots on the hull. I wasn't sure why Sabre had the gap, now I know why. I figured that if I made an exact replacement and attached it exactly as did Sabre, that would be good enough for me. I hereby respectfully withdraw 10b. I like the foam idea and would probably use it if I had to do it again.|
|06-13-2008 11:22 PM|
I finally got the Head Rebuild photos posted to my site. The link follows.
S/V Victoria Head Reconstruction
My wife is the one who convinced my to not worry about using marine plywood. Her attitude is that there should be NO moisture intrusion, so I really didn't need to worry about waterproof glue in the wood. Put that way, it made sense since moisture the problem in the first place and Sabre used marine ply. If you buy furniture grade ply, there will be many plies and no voids. I use it extensively in my furniture.
As for the size of the piece of plywood and the size of the companionway, we have a smallish companionway and the sheet of ply was about 5' tall and 3' wide. I had no problem getting it inside the boat, but I suppose that it's possible. At one time, I had the illusion that I could cut out the bad stuff and scarf in a good piece of ply. I ended up replacing the whole thing because a splice seemed so wrong.
|06-13-2008 09:24 PM|
|82sabre||Wow, thanks for all these replies I just now got on to check the site, we have been down in the belly of the beast all day just trying to clean it out a bit to make the time spent down there a little more pleasant, we are probably going to start on the real work very soon. Any and all input is greatly appreciated so keep it coming! We are most likely going with marine ply, if we properly rebed the chainplates there will be no water coming in to worry about rot in the first place.|
|06-13-2008 05:00 PM|
|sailingdog||A better alternative to a solid fiberglass bulkhead is to make a cored bulkhead, with solid laminate in the sections where the chainplate fittings are. That would be lighter and stronger than a plywood bulkhead, yet as rot-proof as a solid-fiberglass bulkhead. It would also be fairly easy to make in whatever size you required, and piecing sections together to make the entire bulkhead would be rather simple.|
|06-13-2008 04:51 PM|
The only comments that I would make on Sabreman's great post is:
You can not always get a big enough piece of plywood through the companionway to do the whole bulkheadand so you may need to laminate the bulkhead ou of multiple pieces of plywood, half of the thickness of the bulkhead, with their butt joints perhaps a foot or so staggered, and thoroughly glued.
I would strongly suggest using marine plywood since the primary difference is that non-marine plywood has more voids and these are a source of rot and structural failure on a bulkhead with fastenings, and high loads.
The problem with using a fiberglass bulkhead, besides expense and aesthetics is the weight which would be several times the weight of the same thickness wood.
|06-13-2008 04:46 PM|
I would consider replacing the bulkhead with same thickness FIBERGLASS not wood, for the simple reason that plastic just CAN'T rot the same way, ever. Places like McMaster and Grainger sell it up to an inch thick, theonly question is whether they have sheets big enough to replace the whole bulkhead in one piece. And then, apply veneer or other facing over it to make it look proper.
If you can't find plastic, I'd use an epoxy penetrant or something similar to (again) make sure that problem simply never can happen again.
I wonder if anyone makes zirc fittings for chainplate deck mounts?
On the bright side--that's still a cheap price for a Sabre!
|06-13-2008 04:45 PM|
Don't get the fast hardener if the temps are above 70˚F.
8... the bulkhead should have a slight gap between it and the hull. If it is touching, it can create a hard spot where the hull laminate will flex against. The space between the bulkhead and the hull should be filled with a bit of polyureathane foam—divinylcell or Airex are good choices.
As for 10b... if you can leave a nice 1" radius cove bead along the edge of the bulkhead instead of removing all the epoxy, it will help the roving stick better and lay more cleanly along the edge. Fiberglass doesn't do well with tight-radius corners or hard edges.
Originally Posted by Sabreman View Post
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