|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|07-08-2008 07:07 PM|
I think you'll be alright skipping the process I did. I opted to skip because I have a pretty elaborate circuit panel protecting everything upstream. I have it added as a future project, but personally - it was never fused before, so I don't think its a major concern. Enjoy that beverage and congrats on a job well done!
|07-08-2008 07:03 PM|
Have a second beer on me...
|07-08-2008 06:57 PM|
You're a bastard for always being so right!
I'm an idiot for jinxing myself...
Time for a beer.
|07-08-2008 06:55 PM|
Umm... you jinxed yourself, and I'm the bastard... I was just pointing it out... Go ahead, shoot the messenger...
LOL...serves ya right...
|07-08-2008 06:26 PM|
You bastard, you are so right.
My 15 minute installation was 3 hours.
My new battery contacts/heads were a different gauge than my old. So none of the crimped connectors on the wires I pre-built fit. So I was sitting there with a battery powered drill grinding out the openings to fit over my battery contacts in moderate waves. It was also, of course, 100 degrees under my cockpit where all the work was taking place.
I was also one wire short so I started poking around. I traced each system in my boat and found a strange powered metal cylinder mounted under my sink. Any guesses? No idea what it did.
So curiosity got the better of me and I started disassembling it. Would you believe it was a 32 year old CIGARETTE LIGHTER, still powered, sitting under my sink mounted to old dry wood. TERRIFIC, just what I wanted on the boat... why didn't I think of mounting a 32 year old flame ignition device on dry wood???
The good news is that's been pulled and my boat is probably 40 times less likely to burst into flames randomly due to corrosion causing the "lighter" to short and catch fire. I also lost about 40 lbs of water weight sweating in the crawlspace.
Fun stuff, but now I have isolated dual batteries and I'm sure that's worth it.
Thanks for prompting me to go on this adventure!
Total project cost was about $300 including switch/charge controller package and about 10 feet of 4 gauge marine cable and terminators for them all.
BTW Jody I skipped the fusing as well. It would've added about $70-100 bucks to fuse the larger gauge wire and Blue Sea confirmed it's really mainly for protecting the wires themselves, since the charge controller is fused and all the instruments are fused as well. You guys agree or should I plan on putting in a fuse panel for the controller as a second step?
|07-08-2008 02:11 PM|
You may have just jinxed yourself. Everyone knows that pre-wiring stuff means that you'll find that one wire is too short to reach where you want to put the stuff... And working on a boat is never as easy as you think it is going to be.
|07-08-2008 12:15 PM|
Cool thanks, I'll install this evening, I pre-wired everything on the switches and ACM, this should be a quick one.
Thanks to you guys that is,
|07-08-2008 11:38 AM|
|07-08-2008 11:33 AM|
|Birdface||My motor has two wires, ground and positive. The positive provides a charge for starting and subsequently sends it's alternator charge down that same wire back to the battery. It should charge correctly with the "ON" selection.|
|07-08-2008 11:19 AM|
You actually need that connection - as it provides the charging source for when you are motoring from the alternator. There are various ways to hook this up and the diagrams they give are reference only.
I run the alternator output to source input of DC to the house banks (on the selector switch), as the starter battery will get the topping off of the selector switch when in the on position. But you can also do it as in the diagram you have listed. Just means that the charging source goes through the ACR to get to the house batteries and starter battery gets it directly first.
But not tying in the alternator (which is the crossed out line you have) would prevent purpose of running the motor to top off the batteries and or run loads under power. Unless of course you have no alternator..then not needed...
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