|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|12-11-2011 11:16 PM|
bomar hatch repair
I've got opening bomar ports from '89... I've communicated with many other owners of similar sailboats and we can't get replacements of the opening part (lexan plus frame). The hinges are slightly different placement on each port. But we found a company that makes lenses which can adjusted to fit the hinges...
|05-09-2011 05:43 PM|
|NCountry||TAPE before caulking! Dang it, should have seen this 2 weeks ago...|
|05-09-2011 05:40 PM|
Actually I removed the roll pins by pressing them out (not all the way) with a c clamp and a pin as a "drift", rebuilt the top hatch with new lexan and weatherstrip seal and just pressed the old pins back into the top hinge and it's been fine. A little heat/penetraiting fluid certainly helps. Good luck!
|05-09-2011 09:55 AM|
Bomar hatch follow up
I see this thread goes back to 08 but it is right on target with my question. I have a cracked low profile Bomar hatch on my Catalina320 and I have purchased a new one, hopefully exactly the same. I see the comments here about tapping out the hinge roll pins and it seems to me that it would be far simpler to tap out the pins and put the lid from the new hatch right on the old frame. (This sounds like what Argofred was hoping to do.) This would avoid removing the frame, softening and removing the old bedding compound and re-installing the new frame. My question is, assuming that the new hatch is a perfect duplicate, if I tap out the pins.. can I use the same pins to press back in to attach the new lid? OR will they be damaged so I have to buy new pins? I'll have the removed pins from both the old and new hatch.
Also are there any tips like "heat up the hinge with a heat gun to make the pin easier to press/tap out"?
|02-21-2009 08:02 AM|
Originally Posted by argofred View Post
I rebedded the lenses on our AlMag Bomar hatches a few seasons ago and saved the instructions I got from Bomar and GE for their UltraGlaze. Also, if yours are AlMag alloy also, watch for galvanic corrosion with stainless fasteners - use TefGel or something similar.
|02-20-2009 01:47 PM|
|Capnblu||Any time Argo.|
|02-20-2009 09:20 AM|
|02-18-2009 06:01 PM|
|Capnblu||The pin you are referring to is called a "Roll Pin". This style of pin can be removed by tapping it out with a small hammer and drift punch with a slightly smaller diameter. The plastic lens in your hatch is not Lexan, it is Acrylic. The frame itself is made of aluminum, and is quite easy to sand and remove the old paint. When you are ready to repaint, make sure your primer is rated for aluminum. Automotive supply stores usually carry roll pins in various materials and sizes, if you don't feel like spending what Bowmar is asking, or don't want to wait.|
|02-18-2009 03:40 PM|
|argofred||I am looking to separate the lid from the base via the hinges so the frame can be sandblasted and refinished. The base at this time does not need removing. The hinge appears to connect the base to lid with a removable pin. The question is : Are these pins pressed in or ?? Thanks!|
|02-18-2009 10:29 AM|
Hatch plastic replacement
I have repaired quite a few hatches over the years and have found it easier to leave it mounted from the stand point of cutting it out to re-bedding the new one. I just finished replacing the windows on a 36 Jaguar and the principle is the same. Cut it out, remove old adhesive, prime.mask off new plastic, mask off hatch or window, caulk and clamp then do a final cosmetic caulk. This is a little simplistic but the steps are the same. The primer comes in a small can and is available from automotive glass shops and is applied by brush. Be it a 10" hatch or 6' long windows it works and be sure to read the directions on the adhesives. 5 minutes of masking will save 5 hours of clean up.
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