|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|09-11-2011 06:19 PM|
And in spite of a few rough crossings I'm still here...still sailing my Chimera. I've spent a few weeks in the great lakes racing on other peoples boats and well you know the rest of the story.
I've got almost 200 pix of my Helms #504 1075 with many mod's here
that's public album I've got a few others there of sail work, my locker is a trove.
Let me know how you're doing on the project.
|08-17-2011 06:03 PM|
|landmineop||Check the date on the post. It is 2 1/2 years old.|
|08-17-2011 05:02 PM|
|woodywood||wow,nice lookin helms.i just bought a 73.where can i see more pics of yours?|
|03-14-2009 03:28 PM|
The terrible Chimera's Claw
Terrible since it is also known as a can opener. I replaced the stem fitting a few years ago and decided to add the claw feature. I was reworking the foredeck and decided I liked Sampson posts. The fairleads are welded into the plating. My Anchor winch and twin cleats include substantial back up plates.
|03-09-2009 09:53 PM|
Quick answer, the deck is fitted over the hull, the liner is fitted from inside, against hull.
I found st. stl. screws and bolts to hold them together. I fiberglassed over the whole shebang. The wood I fitted is thru bolted w/#10 NF st.stl. bolts and use an acorn nut to finish on ID.
|03-09-2009 10:23 AM|
Can you hand sketch a section of the hull deck joint? I see where the deck overlaps the transom in your picture and is screwed or through bolted as I can see the heads of the screws under your epoxy. But I'm not sure what happens down the sides of the boat. Most manufacturers either have mating flanges turned in or turned out. Ours don't seem to have that. I don't know if the 1/2"x3" horizontal rib is part of the hull or deck. I would assume the hull. If so, does the deck turn down and overlap the hull (like the transom) and rest on the 1/2"x3" rib? The hull then should turn back up after the rib about an 1" to make the joint. Is that rib solid glass or just a turn in the mold of the hull?
|03-09-2009 09:33 AM|
Caution, these are disturbing pictures.
I glassed the hull/deck joint over wiht 2 layers of woven matting. The cheesey rub rail manufactures offer are no match for my ability to "RUB" docks, pilings etc. In a move to save some dollars I thought to install a wood rubrail 1"x3" teal. I drilled and bolted to the now smoother hull/deck joint. I've very satisfied with this modification, stiffer and a good look as well. I could drive old rusty nails into it to hang fenders, eh?
Here's some pictures I have of a Helms that sunk at the dock and was later cut apart. Looking at the profile of the hull the ballast added is evident in the keel. I can't make out a lot of detail of thickness but you can look for yourself and perhaps draw some conclusions. I know it's solid, not cored.
Caution the first 2 pix could be disturbing to Helms owners, it is the dismembered hull of a 1972 25'er.
3rd is my hull deck joint.
|03-07-2009 01:15 PM|
David - Any feel for how heavy (or not) the hull is laid up? I have always been under the impression that the Helms 25 hull is thicker than it needed to be. Though that impression comes from feeling the hull and comparing it to other new boats were the hull will give some under a good body lean. Also, I always figured 1960's and very early 70's boats potentially had thicker glass because the material (fiberglass) was relatively new and untested.
How about the hull to deck joint? I haven't gotten a good look at mine.
|03-05-2009 06:17 PM|
|Wayne25||Lookin gooood David. I replaced my boot strip with new tape last year. Easier to do than I thought with good results.|
|03-05-2009 02:29 PM|
|kwaltersmi||Good stuff David. Thanks for sharing. You're making my boat jealous!|
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