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Go Back   SailNet Community > On Board > Gear & Maintenance > Yanmar starting question
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Thread: Yanmar starting question Reply to Thread
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Topic Review (Newest First)
04-19-2009 07:35 PM
SteveInMD
Quote:
Originally Posted by BarryL View Post
Couldn't a bad lift pump cause a lose of prime?

Barry
Yes, if it has a hole in the diaphragm. However, this too is an air leak.
04-19-2009 06:40 PM
sailingdog You can probably get them at any autoparts store...but I don't think the hardware store will have them.
04-19-2009 06:21 PM
nk235
Quote:
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post
Glad to help...I've noticed that people generally overlook the banjo bolt crush washers. Be aware that even if the banjo bolts don't leak fuel, they can leak air...
True - I just ordered what I think are the crush washers from Torrenson marine but can I get these at any hardware store so long as I bring the one from boat with me or are these special for boats?
04-19-2009 05:46 PM
sailingdog Glad to help...I've noticed that people generally overlook the banjo bolt crush washers. Be aware that even if the banjo bolts don't leak fuel, they can leak air...

Quote:
Originally Posted by nk235 View Post
SD - i like your point about the copper crush washers for the banjo bolts - to be honest I think I have over tightened that before - especially mid summer last year when I noticed a little fuel leaking out of there. I never knew you weren't suppossed to really tighten that.

Also I have checked the fuel lines and near the primary and secondary filters and have noticed no leaks. Also my primeing pump seems to work very well. I notice good clean bursts of fuel when I bleed the filter direclty on the engine so I don't think that is the problem.

My plan of action is later this week head down to the boat - bleed the system at the Racor (if I do in fact have a priming pump on there) then the secondary fuel filter, then the high pressure pump. I will then give it a go. From others I have been speaking with they seem to say that they often get the same problem early in the season with the cold weather. Hopefully it is just that but i'm still going to bleed it anyway.

Also thanks everyone for your advice and opinions. I'm only 25 and each year I learn more and more about the different systems, maintenance and repairs. I like doing everything myself so I get to know how to do it so if I ever do an extended cruise I'll be prepared. Hopefully in the future when I am a seasoned vet I'll be able to return all the favors by helping out all the other newbies with questions.
04-19-2009 05:20 PM
SJ34 [/QUOTE]I like doing everything myself so I get to know how to do it so if I ever do an extended cruise I'll be prepared. Hopefully in the future when I am a seasoned vet I'll be able to return all the favors by helping out all the other newbies with questions.]

Good luck. With some care, a good manual and common sense, you will save yoursef lots of dough and gain invaluable experience. You may not have a pro mechanic close by the next time you have trouble, so learn what you can while there is no risk to life or vessel.
04-19-2009 04:46 PM
nk235 SD - i like your point about the copper crush washers for the banjo bolts - to be honest I think I have over tightened that before - especially mid summer last year when I noticed a little fuel leaking out of there. I never knew you weren't suppossed to really tighten that.

Also I have checked the fuel lines and near the primary and secondary filters and have noticed no leaks. Also my primeing pump seems to work very well. I notice good clean bursts of fuel when I bleed the filter direclty on the engine so I don't think that is the problem.

My plan of action is later this week head down to the boat - bleed the system at the Racor (if I do in fact have a priming pump on there) then the secondary fuel filter, then the high pressure pump. I will then give it a go. From others I have been speaking with they seem to say that they often get the same problem early in the season with the cold weather. Hopefully it is just that but i'm still going to bleed it anyway.

Also thanks everyone for your advice and opinions. I'm only 25 and each year I learn more and more about the different systems, maintenance and repairs. I like doing everything myself so I get to know how to do it so if I ever do an extended cruise I'll be prepared. Hopefully in the future when I am a seasoned vet I'll be able to return all the favors by helping out all the other newbies with questions.
04-19-2009 04:33 PM
BarryL
Bad Lift Pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInMD View Post
The only way to lose the prime is if you have an air leak.
Couldn't a bad lift pump cause a lose of prime?

Barry
04-19-2009 03:40 PM
SteveInMD As SD mentioned above - keep some copper crush washers on hand. They should only be used (crushed) a few times when tightening banjo bolts and vent screws. After that they will be the source of small leaks.
04-19-2009 02:14 PM
neilmcd
Air Leak

Quote:
Originally Posted by SteveInMD View Post
Well obviously people disagree on this one. I still believe you have a small air leak. Hence the extra cranking after the engine sits. Here's how to test the theory. After letting the engine sit, bleed the system before trying to start it. If it fires right up after bleeding it, you have an air leak. If there is no change and it still requires the extra cranking time, you don't.
I agree 100% with SteveInMD. I have recurring problems with a small air leak at the banjo joint on the low pressure side of the fuel supply system. The bolt holding the banjo joint in place tends to slacken slightly over time. As soon as this happens, a small air leak occurs and the engine then has to be turned over a lot more times before it will start quickly.

About twice a season I notice that the engine is not starting as normal. I then immediately tighten this bolt and the starting is normal again! Have though about using a thread locker solution but am reluctant to get this stuff anywhere near my fuel system!

I always keep the throttle wide open until the engine fires.
04-19-2009 02:07 PM
L124C Another guy in my marina had this problem on a 2GM. His motor used to fire up immeadiatly, now it cranks for awhile. I asked if he put the throttle at 2/3 as my 2GM manual recomends. He never needed to move the throttle, the motor just fired up. He now puts the throtle at 2/3 and the motor fires faster.
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