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  Topic Review (Newest First)
07-09-2009 11:21 PM
nightowle if you decide not to go the insurance route, I would highly recommend checking with a retail fiberglass supplier in your area. I did some work recently filling in old through hole areas no longer used at the bottom of the hull. I did a lot of research here and at DIY boat, etc. online. However, I got the best advice when I went to a local shop: Fiberlay, and consulted with their experienced people. I'm now proud of the job we did and give a lot of credit to them for helping in all the right directions.
07-09-2009 11:11 PM
Choose your forum carefuly.

Originally Posted by hertfordnc View Post
Not really a design question but I thought folks here might point me in the right direction-
You are certainly right about that. IMO, better suited for the maintenance forum, where others will be searching for all the valuable repair information provided here.
07-09-2009 08:29 PM
TQA West Systems have a page of HOW TO articles.

Fiberglass Boat Repair and Restoration

Also matching a gell coat color is a LOT harder than matching it with paint.

If it was my boat I would get grinding and buy some West - just remember it is the CLOTH not the resin that has the strength.
06-19-2009 01:33 AM
scottyt actually gene, gelcoat will stick to epoxy as long as the epoxy is preped right, ie was sanded, dewaxed etc.

but yes i would recommend at least letting a pro look at it, a good long look
06-19-2009 12:07 AM
jrd22 Gene has a good point, unless you have extensive experience with fiberglass repairs this might not be a good one to learn on. Without pictures it's hard to visualize the extent of the damage.
06-18-2009 11:59 PM
Gene Smith You've got lots of armchair advice here!

Now call your insurance company and get the boat fixed right. That repair requires experience unless you want it to look like a mess. A pro can use polyester resin and get a good primary bond from existing styrene and match your boat's gel coat. Gel coat won't stick to epoxy. If you fix it with epoxy you'll need to paint it. Now you are into a major league MESS!

Use your head, take a crowbar to your wallet or call the insurance man. If you want to learn all about glass and resins build a kayak in the winter.

After you build three fine kayaks, you'll learn to leave repairs that require matching colors to the pros!
06-16-2009 09:09 AM
sailingSammy Good call on the 1:12 grinding of the existing material.
As you are building up the replacement layers start with narrow strip at the bottom and make the succedding layers progressivly larger so each layer is bonded along the edge to the existing material. If you start with a full width strip first you would be depending on the bond of that layer to hold all the others in place.
06-16-2009 08:22 AM
blueranger Just a quick note; once you start grinding away you might find that the small crack is actually much larger. Make sure you grind out any and all compromised glass. HTH.
05-27-2009 10:09 PM
Originally Posted by hertfordnc View Post
Are the products you suggested significantly better than the West System stuff i can get locally?
The epoxy is probably a bit better than the West System stuff... and considerably less expensive. It is also a no-blush formulation, which reduces the chances of getting contact dermatitis from the amine-blush.

Compare their price for a SIX quart kitó$83, versus West Systems, $70 for .98 Gallon of Resin, and .86 quart of Hardener for $33, or $103 for less than FIVE quarts...

If I understand your question about another Nic 31- I don't think I'll need it. The outside of the bow is ok, Just a little crack. The metal base was set back behind a fiberglass lip.

Good luck...

BTW, you'll need to grind back the existing glass at about a 12:1 taper on both the outside and inside... and then build up the laminate from both sides.
05-27-2009 09:54 PM
Originally Posted by sailingdog View Post

I would recommend getting the epoxy from Progressive Epoxy Polymers. I would recommend getting the cloth from

Is there another Nicholson 31 that you can make a mold of the bow from?
Are the products you suggested significantly better than the West System stuff i can get locally?

If I understand your question about another Nic 31- I don't think I'll need it. The outside of the bow is ok, Just a little crack. The metal base was set back behind a fiberglass lip.

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