|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|02-19-2010 07:35 PM|
|mitiempo||If you're trying to make it non-skid use walnut shells. Works well and nowhere as rough as sand. West Marine sells ground walnut shells.|
|02-19-2010 11:12 AM|
Originally Posted by cormeum View Post
|02-19-2010 07:51 AM|
|TAK||I went on a Hylas a couple of years ago at the Annapolis Boat Show that had a bamboo sole with teak inlay. I thought it was stunning. I am contemplating something like that using regular hard wood bamboo flooring over a 1/4 inch ply.|
|02-03-2010 07:03 PM|
As a follow-up to my post above. Had teak and holly inyl flooring been available at the time, I surely would have used it. See Lonseal Teak-Holly Flooring, 6'wide x any length:World Panel Products Inc
|02-03-2010 05:52 PM|
FWIW in 1987 I used 5/16" teak and holly veneer plywood to cover the sole in the main cabin of our, then, 1976 Cal 2-29. We made a pattern out of brown butcher paper and laid it out on the back of the plywood. After shaping, we then used a mat-knife to score the back side at 2" intervals both fore'n aft and transversely. This allowed the ply to conform to the curvature of the sole without splitting. The material was temporarily held in place with #10 wood screws while we installed #10 flacehead wood screw, counter-sunk so they could be covered with plugs. The rows of screws were approximately 18" apart. We framed around the openings to the bilge, and the covers with 1" by 5/16" teak strips with mitered corners. The plugs were shaved flat with a very sharp small hand plane. The whole surface was roughened with 220 grit paper and covered with 9-10 coats of Minwax Helmsman Semi-gloss urathane and a final coat of the mMinwax Urethane made for hardwood floors which is much more durable. The most difficult part of the job was sculpting 1"x2" moldings around the edges which took a long time as the teak doesn't bend too readily and that was before I knew the trick of making a steam box our of cardboard, foil and foam.
It was a job but the end result was very pleasing. By keeping the deck clean and free of sand, and periodicly scuffing it up and applying a new coat of clear floor vurathane, it looked as new we we sold the boat in 2003.
Below you can see a bit of the sole and the decking on the step at the foot of the companionway (that was not fastened down but served double duty as a table-top in the cockpit).
|02-03-2010 04:11 PM|
|cormeum||The Holly originally was ridged to provide some grip. At least that's what i've been told.|
|01-29-2010 08:10 PM|
Does anyone know the history of the whole idea of having a striped sole. Teak makes sense on a boat but what advantage is their to striping it with holly?
I know it is traditional but where did the tradition come from? Who did it first?
The only thing I can think of is that solid teak is too dark and the added the holly to lighten it up a bit.
|01-29-2010 10:04 AM|
Beyond seconding what's been said about the inadvisability of applying a veneer to the plastic, I'd point out that you may well have thick plywood under the plastic sole. That gives the floor strength and rigidity.
In that case, all you'd need would be thin, i.e. 1/4 or 3/8 inch veneered plyood over the plastic. In such a situation, the only purpose that top layer of ply serves is as a base for the veneer.
And you do need a wood base for the veneer. Even then, gluing alternating strips of paper-thin teak and holly parquet to a proper wood surface is quite an art.
|01-29-2010 01:03 AM|
Originally Posted by Shortman View Post
|01-28-2010 08:36 PM|
|mitiempo||But a bit more expensive now.|
|This thread has more than 10 replies. Click here to review the whole thread.|