|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|05-20-2010 07:26 AM|
Originally Posted by Lidgard29 View Post
|05-19-2010 08:49 PM|
|Lidgard29||The reason why the rigging was replaced after 8 years (the first time) was because the boat was shipped (not on her bottom) from N.Z. to Hawaii. The rig was replaced when the boat was reassembled in Hawaii.|
|05-19-2010 08:46 PM|
|Lidgard29||Thanks for all of your responses! The rigger hasn't sent me his quote yet. I'll post it when I get it. I don't feel knowledgeable enough to do it myself. The boat is a racer/cruiser being used out of Honolulu. The boat hasn't been punished and most of the use has been weekend cruising. The point about the rig only being 10 years old is interesting to me. I'm beginning to think that the whole project can be put off for a while. The rigger found no signs of unusual wear or problems.|
|05-19-2010 03:05 PM|
I would suggest that get at least one other opinion.
You didn't mention where your boat is, but I agree that most rigs don't need to be replaced after only 10 years.
It is often easier and faster to do a re-rig if you pull the stick. If there are other issues that need to be addressed it may make sense. If you are just replacing the standing rigging and the boat is in the water, it seems like overkill to me.
It would take two men about an hour to measure all the shrouds and stays with the mast up. Then he could fabricate everything in his shop and everything could be installed in about three hours.
You might want to ask the guy to elaborate a little more on why he feels the mast needs to come out.
|05-19-2010 02:32 PM|
You could pull the mast, (~$175 for the crane in my neck of the woods, I think), take your old rigging in to the swager and have new rigging swaged, (~$800-900 for my 27 footer), and replace it yourself. So much easier to do with the mast down, get a good personal look at your boat's rigging/condition, learn lots.
Then use the posts here to step and tune the mast-lots of helpful info here.
|05-19-2010 01:31 PM|
With a 29 you should be able to go aloft, or careen the boat, or pull alongside something so you can eyeball the masthead without pulling the mast. You can inspect the shrouds with an eyeball, some binocs, and a rag. Wrap the rag around each shroud, use an uphaul+downhaul to haul it up and down. If there are no meathooks, no catches, it is probably pefectly good. One meathook is enough to condemn the wire though.
Same thing for wear aloft at the spreaders and other points--you should be able to get a close enough look without pulling the stick, unless there's been something extreme to concern you. 20 years, sure, replace away. But at ten with moderate use? Nah. Find a rigger who doesn't drive a fancy car or serve caviar to the customers.
|05-19-2010 12:37 PM|
|mitiempo||The difference between doing it yourself and the rigger could be several thousand dollars depending on "what else he feels needs replacing".|
|05-19-2010 12:31 PM|
If the boats on the hard, I understand his thought process. If you want to go to the top of the mast and make the measurements, and "do all the leg work" you could save alot of money over having the rigger do it, IF it's in the water.
Be careful going up the mast and use safety precautions, and have spotters.
Above all be safe, and figure that facet into his estimate, as he is not going to put his life on the line for you, and you should not put yourself at risk, if you are unsure about any of this. Above all else, be safe !
P.S. Most riggers I know work out of a facility that has a lift and working area for boats so transporting the mast any further then necessary is lost on me.
Best of luck
|05-19-2010 12:30 PM|
I don't know the Lidgard 29 at all...but it sounds like it first had rigging replaced at only 8 years old. Is it a racing boat, and thus with higher stresses on the rigging? Or mainly recreational, weekend use? Makes a difference.
I think this rigger is just trying to drum up his own business. Once the mast is at his shop, he can come up with all sorts of: "Well, since the mast is already here, we might as welldo this...or do that"...and before you know it, we're talking big money, when all it maybe needed was inspection and a couple new tangs, maybe.
If he doesn't feel comfortable with an onboard rigging, "up the mast" inspection, then what's he a rigger for, and perhaps you might want to get a different rigger. Or as someone suggested, study some rigging books and do your own work...it's not really all that hard if you study.
|05-19-2010 12:09 PM|
|mitiempo||If it needs replacing, which would be doubtful after 10 years of light use, the easiest and most affordable way is to order the wire with swages at the top and a bit longer than necessary. Use mechanical fittings (Sta-Lok, Hayn or other) at the bottom and replace each yourself one at a time. The cost for the lot should be less than $800 to $1000. It is not a hard job.|
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