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  Topic Review (Newest First)
06-18-2010 07:04 AM
stevemac00 I used Epifanes Wood Finish for first four coats so I wouldn't have to sand for adhesion. I ended up sanding anyway for looks because the Wood Finish would not flow as flat and left some small ripples on the grain. I also think the Wood Finish is a little darker and has less gloss. I used Epifanes Varnish for the last four coats and the final result is what I wanted.

Next time I would use only Epifanes Varnish. It requires adhesion sanding but it flows and looks great. Also, Epifanes suggests their varnish has better UV resistance than the Wood Finish.

Pay the money and get Epifanes brushes. They hold a ton of varnish.
06-17-2010 10:26 PM
bljones Get a fast drying varnish like Interlux Compass, and lay on two coats a day with no sanding in between coats. Start Friday, on Monday sand the coat you apply in the morning and then lay on the final gloss coat on Monday night. Use a decent natural bristle brush, gently stir your varnish, never shake it, and you will get a result that will get compliments, and it only took 8 hours spread over a long weekend, and it will last for years. - the website of International and Interlux paints
06-17-2010 09:39 PM
CalebD I 2nd Cetol Natural Teak. I have used Bristol Finish (2 part eurathane) and am not at all happy with the way it applies or smells although it looks nice. I have not tried Honey Teak yet but expect that the learning curve will be just as frustrating.
I also highly recommend you use some Teak Oil or Tung Oil on your bare wood to bring out the grain before you apply any finish to it. A quick wipe down with Acetone before you apply the finish will seal in a nice, rich looking wood.
Varnish is for people who can afford to hire and pay a maintenance crew.
06-17-2010 06:07 PM
poopdeckpappy Cetol Natural teak;

My boat has a ship load of teak, I do a yearly maintenence coat which is simple and quick, going into the third year on all the items on the cabin roof (ie: forward hatch, butterfly hatch, hand holds dorade boxes etc,etc ) and they still look very good

When I started, I used traditional Cetol ( natural teak wasn't available yet )so it has that tint to it, the natural teak has a more honey oak tint.............very nice
06-17-2010 05:25 PM
SanDiegoChip I looked at Honey Teak and does look good. I get Practical Sailor and will look through them to get a more updated test. Forgot about PS.
06-17-2010 04:25 PM
RichH Consider "Honey Teak" ... Expensive, has high learning curve, has the gloss and clear luster of varnish ..... but LASTS for 10-12 years (with minimum 'clear coating').
Signature Finish and Honey Teak Products - Honey Teak

Im a reformed varnish-aholic and have a "teakey". I'd rather go sailing than being a slave to 'varnish'.

Honey Teak comes 'closest' to a prime varnish job. Since its an acrylic-urethane 2-part catalyzed ... it can be put on wet-on-wet, can be flat sanded + buffed or hand-rubbed to a 'museum grade' finish.

To make Honey Teak and other 'modern' coating systems last, put them on THICK, maybe 50% thicker than the mfgrs. 'recommendations'. The 'moderns' have adequate UV filters (ferrous oxide) that protect the surface wood cells from UV destruction ... thicker is better.
06-17-2010 04:08 PM
Varnishing easy way out door?

We have been going around and around trying to decide on what producet to use on our teak cap rail. We have finally gotten it all caulked and now will strip it and …..
There are many openions on what is best.
We will be retiring in tow years so I do not see the problem with a light sanding every 6 months and a recoat or two of varnish.
We will be cruising Mexico and beyond.
We want the cap rail to look nice like glass and putting on ten coats of varnish is not what we would like to do. If it were the only thing or if we were retired now then OK. We are of course “getting ready” which means we have 10 projects going all the time like every on else I would think.

A couple products have been mentioned and I am a little scared with the two part products. I have read they are extremely hard to remove. Why we would want to remove it I do not know but I do not want to regret doing the work.
Here is one mans take on it (has same boat).

“I must say that my experiment using bristol has worked out great so far. Last november I had my guy do a light sand and add two more coats. That was at 18 months, didnt look like it needed it, the manufacturor said that it will get uv damage unseen though and to re-coat, so I did. Got to say I love it, still looks like glass, its hard and durable. And man no varnishing every 6 months forever, just my two cents,”

I checked the Bristol web site and did not see anything about removal.
Bristol Finish Home

Another boat I saw like ours paid a person and they used Epifanes Wood Finish on the cap rail and it looked real fine.

So am I looking for the easy way out door and have to face up to if we want it to look great we need to put on ten coats? We both work 40 hr jobs so that is a time isssue.

We have been putting ten coats on the varnishing on the inside of the boat and it looks real nice. Slow process. Kinda if there is a parts shortage for a project I will slip in some varnishing.

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